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Broad Ambition - The Model


grendel

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So this morning I have glued that plank in place, this afternoon I have slowly been working on the rear cabin roof, I have just got to the stage of fixing the roof onto it, I will give it a while for the glue to start going off, but I will need to remove the roof while there is still some give in the glue. in case the glue gets between the roof and a static part of the cabin.

this time I thought things through, last time with the front cabin roof you will remember it was such a tight fit that once removed it needed trimming to fit again. this time I have built in some clearance by using paper between the frame and the roof rib, once I take the roof off, the paper will be removed, and will give me a small clearance around the parts.

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Since I have the day off for a dentist appointment, I have been getting some work in, After checking my working photos I have bent up a piece for the back edge of the roof, this curves in two directions to match the curves of the roof.

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Well with the paint still hardening I cant turn model #1 the right way up (I will tell you later how I know), I had already glued yesterdays plank in place so more work on model #2 wasnt an option, so it was out in the garden between showers to bend up the skeg for model #2. this is done in thin brass sheet, and this time went a lot easier since I knew what I was doing. its still not easy as it is a 10mm wide channel with 25mm sides, so you bend the sides to about 45 degrees then hammer around a former to get it square and right angles. anyway its done now. I need some stainless steel angle for the corners at the stern, these I have ordered some 1/2" stainless steel box section, which can be cut in quarters to give me 4 angles (1/2" is the smallest stainless steel box section made- even for model making)

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now for the confession, I had turned the model right way up in its cradle to work on the cabin roof. when I came to move it the foam inserts in the cradle had stuck to the paint, a quick flat back and respray of the affected areas was called for, thus it will now remain upside down as long as I can leave it.

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I have now attached the skeg to model #2. this entails drilling 3mm holes through the skeg on the pillar drill. this is then placed on the keel, and the 3mm holes drilled through the keel. 

the holes in the keel were then bored out to 4mm to take a 4mm od / 3mm id brass tube. these were then cut at 10mm then filed down to 9.2mm (the thickness of the keel). once the inserts are at 9.2mm they are fitted through the keel 

( this allows the skeg to be tightened onto the keel without crushing the wood, a good tight fit, but not too tight).

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I have used one of my curved sections to make the flat section for the windscreen to sit on. this has the correct curve for the roof on the bottom, once the glue has set the curve at the top will be flattened for the front frame, as will the swept back side pieces. then it will be down to making the frames.

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so I found some 1/4" x1/2" oak for the windscreen frame, I wasnt going to try fancy joints, so I used lap joints at the corners, its been glued up using the foaming gorilla glue for strong joints, and clamped tight the rails have been cut oversize as the top is to be radiused for the roof line, the bottom chamfered for the angle, and the sides will be chamfered for the angles of the side panes.

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Tonight its starting one of those side windows, cardboard template produced, then marked for the inside of the frame, then using 1/2" x 1/4" oak the frame is marked on the wood and cut carefully for the lap joints, this gives some meat for the angles to be cut to, and to get the final fit right. glue added and clamping done, and final shaping will happen tomorrow, then we can do it all again reversed for the other side.

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So tonight the second side frame has been carefully cut, the joints cut, and adjusted, and then glued, careful attention was taken to get the parts a true mirror image, including the direction of the joints. I think I have got it right, tomorrow will be trimming these down to fit.

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I have also taken the 1/2" stainless steel box section to make the angles on the back corners between the sides and transom. this entailed splitting the box straight along the middle of each side, great care taken using a hacksaw, then the edges were filed smooth.

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