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Winch For 17' Boat


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Hiya

I have a 17' weekender it's similar to a shetland 2+2 

i have a 15hp  4 stroke outboard yamaha

and it hasn't much stuff inside, portaloo, seating in the back area 2 batteries fuel tank

 

what i would like to know is does anyone know of what size hand winch to get pls?

my old one has no rating and does it ok it's just quite stiff and the cable is rusty now so i want to replace it for a new one with a strap

 

thanks

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Hi Smitch.

Winches are usually rated on pulling power. If the winch you already have is still in good condition,( just because it is rusty and stiff does not mean that it cannot be stripped, greased and reassembled), but not quite doing the job then you could think about doubling its power (in theory discounting friction) by putting a substantial pulley on the hook end where it connects to the boat and doubling the length of the rope. I use this method and have also increased the length of the handle by welding a bit of an extension into it which gives extra leverage. The set up works very well for me.

Please please please, if you go down this route do not use steel cable. it can give way without warning, lash back and cause serious injury. Use a good quality polyester rope of the smooth type of probably 600 to 800 lb breaking strain. even then, do not stand directly behind the winch when winching (safety first!).

I use this system on my break back trailer where the boat is physically dragged out of the water onto the rollers and not floated onto the trailer and it works very well.

If you go down the route of buying a new winch then I suggest you Google "Towrite" and they may be able to help.

Hope this helps, let us know how you get on.

Regards.

 

Thingy.

 

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Hi again.

I just googled Towrite and they do not seem the sort of company they used to be and now seem to only want to sell new trailers.

However, I googled "trailer winches" and found a company called Machine Mart who seem to supply what you want, give them a try.

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I have just taken a couple of pictures of my set up. The polyester rope is around 600 lbs. breaking strain and fits neatly onto the winch spool. When doubled around the pulley it gives a maximum safe pull of 1000 lbs.

the winch gives a pull of around 800 lbs. so doubled around the pulley gives a maximum pull of 1600 lbs.

You will note that I am using a washing line pulley, it is however an old cast steel pulley which is quite robust. I do not recommend the newer washing line pulleys as they seem to be made of an inferior metal.

 

 

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Brill thanks for that, that all makes sense now i can see it.

I went down my boat yard today and looked at a similar size boat to mine and they had rating of 750 and the winch was about the same size with webbing strap, so i think mine is prob the same rating.

I now know what sort of thing i'm after.

Thanks for the help

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If the winch you have is ok why replace it.Just replace the wire with a strap. Winches under 1000kg all have similar drum sizes, and will take a strap. (Trailer laws are quite complex) I personally feel that all boat trailers should be braked. (Just my opinion from the damaged boats and trailers we saw when we had the trailer firm)

Charlie.

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15 hours ago, Bound2Please said:

If the winch you have is ok why replace it.Just replace the wire with a strap. Winches under 1000kg all have similar drum sizes, and will take a strap. (Trailer laws are quite complex) I personally feel that all boat trailers should be braked. (Just my opinion from the damaged boats and trailers we saw when we had the trailer firm)

Charlie.

For some reason, don't ask me why because I don't know, it is not recommended to have brakes on trailers for small boats such as Smitche's and mine. When trailing you just have to bear this in mind and keep a sensible distance from the vehicle in front and take particular care in wet weather. Using a big heavy car does help and the ABS works wonders if you do mess up. Personally I have never triggered the ABS but it is nice to know it is there if you have to slam everything on.

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On ‎31‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 8:46 AM, Bound2Please said:

In all the years we was trailer making and repairing them, I have never heard of that recommendation. Is this due to the many thousands of people that never have then serviced so the brakes seize up ?....

Charlie

I really do not know where the recommendation came from. When I built my trailer from Indispension parts the shop staff that supplied the parts told me that I could not get a braked suspension for that weight of suspension as it was not recommended to have brakes on that weight of trailer. The trailer is well within my car's towing capacity and the car has big wide tyres and as I said it has ABS. I consider myself a very experienced trailer driver and I don't push my luck and drive according to road conditions and as I said, I keep well back from the vehicle in front.

With regards to trailer maintenance I check my bearings and indeed, the whole trailer, at the end of the season for play and adjust when necessary. I replaced them last Autumn as a couple of times the previous year water got into the bearings due to accidental dunking and they were sounding a bit rough when I spun the wheels. My trailer is a break back design so usually the bearings are not wetted but accidents do happen. Even if bearings are regularly wetted they are so cheap nowadays on fleabay they can be changed at the end of each season for peanuts if you do the job yourself. Just tap the old ones out with a punch and push the new ones in with a vice. Make sure you push the outer rings in right to the shoulder in the hub. Whatever you do, do not try to wind the bearings in with the retaining nut as the new bearing will be damaged.

Being a bit of a belt and braces bod I would much rather do a couple of hours maintenance each Autumn on my driveway than be a hazard parked on the side of a motorway with a sick or dead trailer.

 

Thingy. 

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