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StillCruising last won the day on June 16 2018

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About StillCruising

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    West Sussex
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    Boating, Classic Cars

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  1. We only use a small section from Postwick to either the Salhouse or Wroxham turn roundabout because it is jolly convenient but I hate the road with a passion. The roundabouts are far to low therefore do not show up until you are very close especially when bad weather limits visibility and the diameter is far too small. If you are in the outside lane it is virtually a 90 deg turn to stay in your lane, add this to the relatively narrow lanes it makes it very difficult for lorries to stay in their own lane without drifting over, this has happened to us on more than one occasion but since I drive like a granddad (cause I am) and do not look for openings to 'squeeze through' as seems to be the norm now so we have not actually been hit so far.
  2. We have a Flavel Vanessa cooker that also responded well to having the jets cleaned, it is now part of the yearly maintenance.
  3. I live near Goodwood where there is a spitfire flying school so we often get to hear the wonderful noise of the merlin engine. Slightly off topic but back in the day I knew John Dodds who had a meteor (downgraded merlin) engine in his car 'The Beast', that went pretty fast albeit being bloody noisy. There some videos about it on Youtube.
  4. What a trip down memory lane this thread has developed into. First ‘car’ at 16 Bond Mk C modified to coil ignition, unlike Santed’s car mine had a hinged lever inside connected by a cable to the engine kick start which you quickly pulled towards you at the same time as pushing down on the floor mounted decompressed pedal. I changed the points once which required taking the flywheel off and reset the timing by the well tried method of using a pencil through the sparking plug hole. All seemed good till I stared up engaged first gear and promptly reversed into the back of the garage because I had got my before and after TDC mixed up. After 10 lessons I passed my test in an Austin A40 Farina and bought a 2ltr Triumph Roadster complete with ‘dickey seat’. This was followed by a Wolsey 4/44, the test drive was great and both the body and interior was immaculate, it was only after using it regularly that I kept smelling hot oil and discovered lots of oil fumes coming out of the engine breather. To overcome the smell I attached a length of garden hose to the breather, wired it under the car and tucked it under the back bumper. This stopped the smell but started a succession of other motorists stopping me to tell me that the boot was on fire. I did 15000 miles in that car and sold it for more than I paid for it which I was pretty chuffed about. Then followed a succession of cars of all makes and types up to the present 2004 Rover 75 Connie SE that I mentioned in a previous post (Robin – mine has sepia coloured dials and illumination). Most unreliable car (apart from the Bond) Ford Escort Mk 2 estate that spluttered to a stop ever time it rained. Most fun car MG Midget Mk2. Most favourite car more tricky Bentley S2, Jag XK 140 or Rover 3ltr Coupe – it must be the Rover cause I still have it.
  5. Hi John (annv). I agree with your comment about it not being a good idea to use discharge testers on leisure batteries but it really was the last result to confirm a theory. All the indications from the charging system pointed to the batteries being fully charged. when I checked the SG of all the cells they were all showing virtually the same same but not full charge (and no 'brown soup' to denote plate breakup). The other thing was that I could hear them gassing fairly vigorously with the solar panel only showing a couple of amps going in. I have seen this sort of thing before when I ran a garage battery charging shop while working for London Transport many years ago where it was usually due to internal cell shorts or sulphaton. With that in mind I figured I hadn't got much to loose with a drop test which in this case proved the lack of capacity. I Regards Bob
  6. Hi All. Just a quick update. Whist aboard last week I rechecked all the electrics. The engine charging and solar panel charging were working OK, instead of calculating I measured the current draw from each light fitting (2D) and they were all around 1amp each (different wattage tubes in some of them). With everything switched off there was a very few milliamps draw probably from the USB adaptors. With nothing sinister found on the current draw front I disconnected the batteries and checked them with a load tester. The 12year old starting battery was perfect however both the leisure batteries showed a significant drop in ‘on load’ voltage. So two new batteries were obtained and fitted and now everything is back to normal. Although the leisure batteries were only two years old I know that whilst in a boatyard last year they had been left for a long time (three weeks) with the ignition on and the Ebber pulsing (as described in my previous posts) so I’m assuming that they became sulphated and therefore whilst appearing to charge up OK they had very little capacity. As mentioned by Smoggy I found the yellow feed wire on the Ebber but since I left the switch at home (doh) that mod will be for the next visit, in the meantime the fuse remains out. Regards Bob
  7. Wow cheers Smoggy a separate switch is exactly what I had in mind. I have PDF copy of the Ebber instructions on the PC but it looks like a copy of a copy and the wire colour code is virtually unreadable so I was struggling to determine what colour the control wire is. Thanks again Bob
  8. I can't edit my previous post but the 2D lights are 15 watt not 10watt as stated. Bob
  9. Hi Again. Thanks for the replies. The boat was originally built (1980) with the isolator in the negative line, this is not the first boat that I have come across in this configuration so whilst maybe unusual is not unique. Provided the batteries can be isolated from the boat circuits it probably doesn’t matter which line the isolator is in, and I have no plans to change it. We have owned the boat for ten years and after the first few months with consistently undercharged batteries checked by their specific gravity I fitted a Sterling Pro Reg B and increased the thickness of the wiring both to carry the extra amperage available and reduce the line resistance caused by the long run to the ammeter and back. To maintain the batteries when the boat is moored up or not in use I have a 100watt solar panel with a Photonic Universe MPPT controller and the remote monitor which Is connected to the domestic batteries only, I can also link it to the starter battery if required e.g. over the winter months. The controller shows the voltage generated from the solar panel, the charge going to the batteries from it and the battery terminal voltage. I therefore know what the current that alternator is pushing out via the existing ammeter and the battery voltage via the Photonic remote. This set up has served us well with no issues for many years but one day last autumn we found that the domestic battery (2x110ah) voltage was dropping very fast with just a few 10w 2D lights on which had never happened before. At first I suspected the alternator diodes as I have seen this before but by a process of elimination I found that although visually switched off on the rotary switch the Ebber was in fact drawing a pulsing 7 amps although there was no sign of it starting up. It turned out that the rotary switch whilst appearing to be in the OFF position was in fact still connecting to the heater on what should be its lowest heat setting. There is a detent in the switch that is supposed to hold it firmly in the OFF position but over the years this has become weak and can easily be moved just by dusting off the dash board. Personally I have never liked the rotary switch set up and we always run it flat out to avoid the clogging up that occurred to a friend’s system, so having taken the fuse out for now I will look to something a bit more foolproof in future. The quickly flattening battery scenario above is what made me think about the possibility of measuring the actual current drain as we would have seen the pulsing but on thinking about it again and taking on board the comments and advice in the various responses to my original post I am not going to bother with the BM2 idea. Finally I apologise if this post has got a bit wordy but I have tried to cover all the details and issues in one go hopefully without being two ‘techy’ Regards Bob.
  10. Hi you knowledgeable folks I would value your thoughts on a little upgrade that I am considering. We have three batteries, two for the domestic supply and one for the starter. In simple terms all the negatives are joined together and a wire goes to the isolator switch the other side of this goes to the engine block and negative bus-bar. The starter positive goes straight to the starter motor, the two domestic positives are joined together and then go to a bus-bar and fuses. The alternator is a normal Lucas type and has an old (probably original) ammeter in the line which when the engine is running shows the total charge to all the batteries. The downside to the above set up is that you cannot measure the discharge from the domestic batteries and this was highlighted recently when a fault developed in the Ebber heater switch causing a large current drain. This has prompted me to think about fitting a NASA BM2 however the shunt goes in the negative line and if I did that it would measure the starter discharge and that is beyond its design parameters. To overcome this I am proposing split the link between the two domestic batteries and the starter battery and insert the shunt. The only disadvantage that I can see is that it will not measure the charge to the starter battery but then I’m not sure that it is necessary a big problem. NB. For the sake of simplicity I have left the direct (but fused) feeds to the solar panel, bilge pump etc. Does anybody see any issues with what I have outlined above of have any other suggestions? Bob Basic Battery Connections.doc
  11. A years ago we were T boned by a Rico boat who succeeded in putting their bow through our back cabin window. They didn't stop despite myself and a number of people on a Wherry who witnessed the incident shouting at them to do so. Of course we had their boat name and number which we reported by phone to Richo's and a passing BA launch also took the details. As it was a Sunday and the boat was unusable due to a bed and floor full of glass and window fittings we had to spend the night in a hotel. On the Monday Richo's thoroughly cleaned out the cabin and temporally covered the missing window to enable us to continue our holiday. When we came home the boat was left with Phil at Moonfleet who did all the repair work and returned the boat to our moorings. Richo's also paid for the overnight say in the hotel.
  12. An interesting study Paul. I have often wondered about proper test of the MPG difference between regular and premium fuels. I have used our 'Norfolk Run' of 450miles with my 2004 Rover 75 diesel automatic (BMW lump) with both cheap and premium fuel several times and found essentially no difference that could not be explained by traffic density or lighter / heavier right foot. Over the past 7 years I have had two 75 diesels, the first was written of by a white van man reversing into it in a line of stationary traffic, but as they are considered as a 'modern classic' the insurance pay out was very good. The current one I have had 4 years and on the Norfolk run consistently returns between 48 - 51 Mpg and local runs of between 34 & 39 Mpg whatever fuel I have used. As far as zoom goes the isn't much even in sport mode so that is not a consideration. Regards Bob
  13. Hi Pumpmedic. Thanks for the links. That is the plastic moulding that houses the diaphragm which mates to the pump housing and switch assembly, the picture shows how little land there is on the mating surfaces. As the pump works ok and holds its pressure (the leak at the joint is very small) I'm assuming that the diaphragm and valves are OK and that there is just a small distortion of either / both of the mouldings possibly due to old age or the hot and cold of the engine bay where it is situated. In fact the combined cost of both parts comes to more than a new pump so hardly cost effective soI will try the disassembly and rebuild with some sealer but if that doesn't work I'll just replace with the 7Lpm new version and take a chance on the flow rate. Regards Bob
  14. Hi. Thanks for the reply's. We will be back to the boat after Easter for a week and since the water leak is very small and is easily collected we will live with it. When we come back I will bring the pump home and dismantle with a view to checking / lapping the surfaces on a glass plate and re assembling with a trace of sealer on the surfaces. Regards Bob
  15. Hi. We have a Shurflow 2095-423-342 water pump which was fitted 10 years ago. Last spring when dewinterizing there was a big leak at the joint at the bottom of the pressure chamber and I found that some of the screws were quite loose and when tightened the leak stopped. We have just dewinterized this year and once again there is a leak at the pump in the same place although it is only an occasional drip this time, maybe 1/4 pint per day, in all other respects the pump works perfectly. As the pump is ten years old I thought I would just replace it however it seems that the model numbers and specs have changed over there years. My pump has a rating of 20psi (1.4 bar) with a flow rate of 10.5 L/m and a power usage of 7.5 amps however from what I can see the latest version 20psi pump has a flow rate of only 7 L/m and a power usage of 4.5amps. There is a version that will deliver 10 L/m but the pressure is 30 psi and I do not want to increase the line pressure by a third in case it causes problems such a leaks that are not in obvious or accessible places. On looking at the web it seems that a leak at this joint is a common problem caused by some distortion of the flanges since there is no jointing gasket. The common fix appears to be striping and rebuilding with the application of some flexible jointing compound such a Hylomar however whilst in my experience this is great for car head gaskets etc. I'm not so sure about using it where it will be in contact with fresh water. So I am thinking about using something non toxic like aquarium sealer. Has anyone else had this problem or can offer any thoughts or fixes ? Regards Bob
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