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StillCruising

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Everything posted by StillCruising

  1. I am pretty sure that Misty Willow was opposite us at Broadsedge in the 'new bit' a few years back.
  2. We have been with Euro Marine for some years. Friendly helpful people to talk to and competitive prices. We have never had to make a claim so cannot comment on that aspect. They do have a web site www.astonlark.com/euromarine Phone no is 01843 603345 Regards Bob
  3. For me this would not be a viable proposition for all the reasons previously mentioned. Personally if I was looking for a 27 for use on inland waterways I wouldn't even consider a twin engine version. For estuary use a twin may be better but they were not designed for rough water or anything more than force 5 and they would be very uncomfortable to be in at that. There are far more single engine boats around so the choice would be greater, running costs less and accessibility to the mechanicals far easier. If you want a boat for sea use buy a 30, believe me the extra length, width and stability makes a lot of difference.
  4. In the 80's I restored to Tiger Cubs, one with all the fairing and the other was the sport version. With the asking price of them now I wish I Still had them !
  5. Fergal's boat was F28 a Generation 4 when it was in hire with Beaver. The name was changed to Gay Lady when it moved to the Thames for hire with Bushnell's I think.
  6. The guy who restored / converted the boat in NeilB's link was Fergal Butler, a truly remarkable and skilful man. Sadly his son who had cerebral palsy passed away in march this year. Fergal's record of the boat conversion is in this link. https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057583016 This was not his only foray into boating, he build a V8 powered Crackerbox called Olds Cool. I think there are some video clips on U Tube or Google Olds Cool Fergal Butler Regards Bob
  7. It was at Sutton Staithe last week.
  8. Regulo mentions an auxiliary fan that he fitted to improve airflow. Our fridge is free standing but in what can be considered as a box slightly bigger than the fridge therefore there is very little if any natural airflow. This is ok in the winter when the ambient temperature is relatively low and the compressor doesn't have to work too hard but not on hot summer days when the compressor is running for a lot longer. I was going to fit a computer fan to come on and off with the compressor by breaking into the thermostat wire but was advised against it but a friend who was the production manager of a well know fridge manufacturer. He never told me why this was not a good idea but he knew that the fridge was out of warranty so it wasn't that. In the event I made the thermostatically controlled auxiliary fan which is mounted behind the fridge so that it blows onto the compressor and evaporator with thermocouple strategically placed out of the air stream. The fan On and Off temperatures are set by the digital controller settings which you can set yourself to suit the installation. After a bit of fine tuning of the positions of the fan relative to the back of the fridge, thermocouple position and controller settings the fridge is a lot more efficient with the compressor running a lot less. Another benefit is that the reduction in the compressor run time means less amps being drawn per hour. Edit. Just noticed the photos which were portrait have attached in landscape for some reason.
  9. I'm sure that I read somewhere that back in the day the flooding at geldeston was deep enough to allow wherry's to bypass the lock and sail across the fields.
  10. I remember how rich I thought I was when I started work on 3 pound &15 shillings (3.75 new fangled pounds) per week !!!.
  11. What really annoys me is people who flick their cigarette butts into the river !!! Regards Bob
  12. We only use a small section from Postwick to either the Salhouse or Wroxham turn roundabout because it is jolly convenient but I hate the road with a passion. The roundabouts are far to low therefore do not show up until you are very close especially when bad weather limits visibility and the diameter is far too small. If you are in the outside lane it is virtually a 90 deg turn to stay in your lane, add this to the relatively narrow lanes it makes it very difficult for lorries to stay in their own lane without drifting over, this has happened to us on more than one occasion but since I drive like a granddad (cause I am) and do not look for openings to 'squeeze through' as seems to be the norm now so we have not actually been hit so far.
  13. We have a Flavel Vanessa cooker that also responded well to having the jets cleaned, it is now part of the yearly maintenance.
  14. I live near Goodwood where there is a spitfire flying school so we often get to hear the wonderful noise of the merlin engine. Slightly off topic but back in the day I knew John Dodds who had a meteor (downgraded merlin) engine in his car 'The Beast', that went pretty fast albeit being bloody noisy. There some videos about it on Youtube.
  15. What a trip down memory lane this thread has developed into. First ‘car’ at 16 Bond Mk C modified to coil ignition, unlike Santed’s car mine had a hinged lever inside connected by a cable to the engine kick start which you quickly pulled towards you at the same time as pushing down on the floor mounted decompressed pedal. I changed the points once which required taking the flywheel off and reset the timing by the well tried method of using a pencil through the sparking plug hole. All seemed good till I stared up engaged first gear and promptly reversed into the back of the garage because I had got my before and after TDC mixed up. After 10 lessons I passed my test in an Austin A40 Farina and bought a 2ltr Triumph Roadster complete with ‘dickey seat’. This was followed by a Wolsey 4/44, the test drive was great and both the body and interior was immaculate, it was only after using it regularly that I kept smelling hot oil and discovered lots of oil fumes coming out of the engine breather. To overcome the smell I attached a length of garden hose to the breather, wired it under the car and tucked it under the back bumper. This stopped the smell but started a succession of other motorists stopping me to tell me that the boot was on fire. I did 15000 miles in that car and sold it for more than I paid for it which I was pretty chuffed about. Then followed a succession of cars of all makes and types up to the present 2004 Rover 75 Connie SE that I mentioned in a previous post (Robin – mine has sepia coloured dials and illumination). Most unreliable car (apart from the Bond) Ford Escort Mk 2 estate that spluttered to a stop ever time it rained. Most fun car MG Midget Mk2. Most favourite car more tricky Bentley S2, Jag XK 140 or Rover 3ltr Coupe – it must be the Rover cause I still have it.
  16. Hi John (annv). I agree with your comment about it not being a good idea to use discharge testers on leisure batteries but it really was the last result to confirm a theory. All the indications from the charging system pointed to the batteries being fully charged. when I checked the SG of all the cells they were all showing virtually the same same but not full charge (and no 'brown soup' to denote plate breakup). The other thing was that I could hear them gassing fairly vigorously with the solar panel only showing a couple of amps going in. I have seen this sort of thing before when I ran a garage battery charging shop while working for London Transport many years ago where it was usually due to internal cell shorts or sulphaton. With that in mind I figured I hadn't got much to loose with a drop test which in this case proved the lack of capacity. I Regards Bob
  17. Hi All. Just a quick update. Whist aboard last week I rechecked all the electrics. The engine charging and solar panel charging were working OK, instead of calculating I measured the current draw from each light fitting (2D) and they were all around 1amp each (different wattage tubes in some of them). With everything switched off there was a very few milliamps draw probably from the USB adaptors. With nothing sinister found on the current draw front I disconnected the batteries and checked them with a load tester. The 12year old starting battery was perfect however both the leisure batteries showed a significant drop in ‘on load’ voltage. So two new batteries were obtained and fitted and now everything is back to normal. Although the leisure batteries were only two years old I know that whilst in a boatyard last year they had been left for a long time (three weeks) with the ignition on and the Ebber pulsing (as described in my previous posts) so I’m assuming that they became sulphated and therefore whilst appearing to charge up OK they had very little capacity. As mentioned by Smoggy I found the yellow feed wire on the Ebber but since I left the switch at home (doh) that mod will be for the next visit, in the meantime the fuse remains out. Regards Bob
  18. Wow cheers Smoggy a separate switch is exactly what I had in mind. I have PDF copy of the Ebber instructions on the PC but it looks like a copy of a copy and the wire colour code is virtually unreadable so I was struggling to determine what colour the control wire is. Thanks again Bob
  19. I can't edit my previous post but the 2D lights are 15 watt not 10watt as stated. Bob
  20. Hi Again. Thanks for the replies. The boat was originally built (1980) with the isolator in the negative line, this is not the first boat that I have come across in this configuration so whilst maybe unusual is not unique. Provided the batteries can be isolated from the boat circuits it probably doesn’t matter which line the isolator is in, and I have no plans to change it. We have owned the boat for ten years and after the first few months with consistently undercharged batteries checked by their specific gravity I fitted a Sterling Pro Reg B and increased the thickness of the wiring both to carry the extra amperage available and reduce the line resistance caused by the long run to the ammeter and back. To maintain the batteries when the boat is moored up or not in use I have a 100watt solar panel with a Photonic Universe MPPT controller and the remote monitor which Is connected to the domestic batteries only, I can also link it to the starter battery if required e.g. over the winter months. The controller shows the voltage generated from the solar panel, the charge going to the batteries from it and the battery terminal voltage. I therefore know what the current that alternator is pushing out via the existing ammeter and the battery voltage via the Photonic remote. This set up has served us well with no issues for many years but one day last autumn we found that the domestic battery (2x110ah) voltage was dropping very fast with just a few 10w 2D lights on which had never happened before. At first I suspected the alternator diodes as I have seen this before but by a process of elimination I found that although visually switched off on the rotary switch the Ebber was in fact drawing a pulsing 7 amps although there was no sign of it starting up. It turned out that the rotary switch whilst appearing to be in the OFF position was in fact still connecting to the heater on what should be its lowest heat setting. There is a detent in the switch that is supposed to hold it firmly in the OFF position but over the years this has become weak and can easily be moved just by dusting off the dash board. Personally I have never liked the rotary switch set up and we always run it flat out to avoid the clogging up that occurred to a friend’s system, so having taken the fuse out for now I will look to something a bit more foolproof in future. The quickly flattening battery scenario above is what made me think about the possibility of measuring the actual current drain as we would have seen the pulsing but on thinking about it again and taking on board the comments and advice in the various responses to my original post I am not going to bother with the BM2 idea. Finally I apologise if this post has got a bit wordy but I have tried to cover all the details and issues in one go hopefully without being two ‘techy’ Regards Bob.
  21. Hi you knowledgeable folks I would value your thoughts on a little upgrade that I am considering. We have three batteries, two for the domestic supply and one for the starter. In simple terms all the negatives are joined together and a wire goes to the isolator switch the other side of this goes to the engine block and negative bus-bar. The starter positive goes straight to the starter motor, the two domestic positives are joined together and then go to a bus-bar and fuses. The alternator is a normal Lucas type and has an old (probably original) ammeter in the line which when the engine is running shows the total charge to all the batteries. The downside to the above set up is that you cannot measure the discharge from the domestic batteries and this was highlighted recently when a fault developed in the Ebber heater switch causing a large current drain. This has prompted me to think about fitting a NASA BM2 however the shunt goes in the negative line and if I did that it would measure the starter discharge and that is beyond its design parameters. To overcome this I am proposing split the link between the two domestic batteries and the starter battery and insert the shunt. The only disadvantage that I can see is that it will not measure the charge to the starter battery but then I’m not sure that it is necessary a big problem. NB. For the sake of simplicity I have left the direct (but fused) feeds to the solar panel, bilge pump etc. Does anybody see any issues with what I have outlined above of have any other suggestions? Bob Basic Battery Connections.doc
  22. A years ago we were T boned by a Rico boat who succeeded in putting their bow through our back cabin window. They didn't stop despite myself and a number of people on a Wherry who witnessed the incident shouting at them to do so. Of course we had their boat name and number which we reported by phone to Richo's and a passing BA launch also took the details. As it was a Sunday and the boat was unusable due to a bed and floor full of glass and window fittings we had to spend the night in a hotel. On the Monday Richo's thoroughly cleaned out the cabin and temporally covered the missing window to enable us to continue our holiday. When we came home the boat was left with Phil at Moonfleet who did all the repair work and returned the boat to our moorings. Richo's also paid for the overnight say in the hotel.
  23. An interesting study Paul. I have often wondered about proper test of the MPG difference between regular and premium fuels. I have used our 'Norfolk Run' of 450miles with my 2004 Rover 75 diesel automatic (BMW lump) with both cheap and premium fuel several times and found essentially no difference that could not be explained by traffic density or lighter / heavier right foot. Over the past 7 years I have had two 75 diesels, the first was written of by a white van man reversing into it in a line of stationary traffic, but as they are considered as a 'modern classic' the insurance pay out was very good. The current one I have had 4 years and on the Norfolk run consistently returns between 48 - 51 Mpg and local runs of between 34 & 39 Mpg whatever fuel I have used. As far as zoom goes the isn't much even in sport mode so that is not a consideration. Regards Bob
  24. Hi Pumpmedic. Thanks for the links. That is the plastic moulding that houses the diaphragm which mates to the pump housing and switch assembly, the picture shows how little land there is on the mating surfaces. As the pump works ok and holds its pressure (the leak at the joint is very small) I'm assuming that the diaphragm and valves are OK and that there is just a small distortion of either / both of the mouldings possibly due to old age or the hot and cold of the engine bay where it is situated. In fact the combined cost of both parts comes to more than a new pump so hardly cost effective soI will try the disassembly and rebuild with some sealer but if that doesn't work I'll just replace with the 7Lpm new version and take a chance on the flow rate. Regards Bob
  25. Hi. Thanks for the reply's. We will be back to the boat after Easter for a week and since the water leak is very small and is easily collected we will live with it. When we come back I will bring the pump home and dismantle with a view to checking / lapping the surfaces on a glass plate and re assembling with a trace of sealer on the surfaces. Regards Bob
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