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  1. Thank you for your comments and advice. I think I will use the Arbormast as before because it is certainly easy to get the windows out if any further work is needed. When I dug the glass out of the frames I found they had been sealed with silicone, which was mostly in fine condition. Interestingly, the seal failure was around where rubber shims had been used to locate the glass in the centre of the U section. These came close to the top of the U, leaving little silicone to provide the seal. If you are thinking of using this technique, I suggest keeping them as deep in the frame as possible. I am going to try putting them back together with just silicone, but working on a flat surface, and supporting the glass at the required height above the outside of the frame. By marking the location of the frame and glass position before assembly I should be able to centre the glass within the frame, and create a complete bed of silicone in the U before assembly. Lots of masking will be required, of course!
  2. Hello, Can anyone offer some advice on window sealing and sealant please? I have just removed an aluminium window frame from a GRP boat because the aluminium/glass seal leaks. It came out easily, and was sealed with a grey substance which had not set, except in a few places on the inside where it was exposed with a large surface area. I don't think it is butyl tape as it had been applied to the threads of the screws holding the frame to the GRP. The sealant had been in place for at least 5 years. It dissolved easily with white spirit. Does anyone know what this sealant is from this description please? Also what is the best way to replace the glass/aluminium seal? I have read various articles on this. A rubber U section is one option, but I have read that this should also be sealed with silicone between the glass/rubber and rubber/aluminium, and then there is the troublesome matter of the join in the rubber, which is likely to open up under thermal stress (ie when very cold). I have also read that a complete bed of suitable silicone both sides of the glass makes a good seal. Dow 791 (neutral cure silicone) seems like a good option, being low modulus, and having good adhesion to both glass and aluminium (I have tested this and it is indeed the case as claimed). Has anyone tried this, and have any idea how long the silicone might last? If the rubber U required silicone to seal, why use the rubber at all? Many thanks, Ben
  3. New sedan for 2020. https://www.richardsonsboatingholidays.co.uk/boats/wayfarer/
  4. Stern rail to fit Ocean 30. Legs have recess to accommodate deck rim, but should also fit versions without the rim. Rail comes with seat back, outer canvas and flag pole holder. May also fit Broom 30. White GRP hatch cover for rear of Ocean 30. 3 cushions to cover stern deck of Ocean 30. Rail, seat back and canvas £100 Hatch cover £80 Cushions £80 £250 the lot
  5. It is private, just been built by Sheerline. https://www.facebook.com/sheerlinemotorcruisers/photos/pcb.656184044857496/656184004857500/?type=3&theater
  6. It says in the brochure that they are building Commander 6 and 7 as well as the new sedan this year.
  7. It looks like the private Barracuda. It sold in the last few months at Lowestoft. https://www.yachtworld.co.uk/boats/2008/alpha-craft-35-3472528/
  8. BB37

    Boats For Couples

    There is the 30' version, Symphony from Richardson's https://www.richardsonsboatingholidays.co.uk/boats/symphony/
  9. Hello, I'm about to lay up a mould of around 2m2 with polyester gelcoat and resin/CSM layers by hand. I've successfully laid up smaller sample areas, but I am concerned as to whether I will be able to work fast enough to get successive layers on before the layer underneath gels/cures too much. Could anyone advise as to how far cured the resin can be and still chemically bond to new resin? Does the resin still need to be in the gel phase, or is there a window of hours after it hardens? On the same subject, when hulls are laid up, is it a continuous job, or is it possible to break over night between layers? Thanks, Ben
  10. Have seen Hamptons, Bounty 30s, 37s and Fair Countess go under on the HW webcam
  11. I am upgrading the alternators on my boat to generate a total of 240amps. Does anyone know the maximum continuous current that this switch can take? It is a CAV type 444C-1M. I have tried googling but without success. Many thanks
  12. Do you also do the fit out? We own a Ocean 30, it would be a real shame if the mould have been cut as they are such a great design.
  13. I believe RGW Roe & Son moulded for Westwood, but these moulds are now at Richardson's stalham. Westwood A405 at stalham.
  14. Presumably these are the moulds used by RGW Roe & Son at Rackheath, since 2010 when Aquafibre stoped.
  15. Went to Rackheath today and all of the Aquafibre mould have gone. The Diamond and Opal mould are used by Barnes Brinkcraft, but where are the rest?
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