JeremyG

I’m thinking of putting one on my eberspacher as well either with a relay or you can get a zero volt switch that works on 12v (but doesn’t give temp/humidity). Just thinking that sticking that on for an hour a day might help the overall dryness on the boat

Thought I might share this for those of you who have tube heaters in their engine bays... I’ve always been a little nervous that the thermostats on these are coming on when they should be and not either using loads of leccy or letting my engine freeze. I out one on my boat when I first bought it with the intention of semi winterising so I can use the boat in the winter. But my nervousness has meant that I always fully winterised, well this year I fitted one of these... SONOFF TH16 Smart WiFi Switch Monitoring Temperature Humidity with DS18B20 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0813CN56X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pBKeEbS0X53WE ok so you need Wi-Fi (which I have at my mooring) , but cheap as chips, you get humidity and temp readings and can trigger it on or off based on that or manually from the app or timer etc etc. Triggers also work if the internet connection fails anyway - thought it might be of interest

Again, thanks all. So my first assumptions was to put it on starter battery. It’s already professionally installed so I just need to decide which bank. So I know about the differences between starter and leisure batteries hence why I originally thought starter. I had read conflicting reports on domestic/starter (yes I know house is an americanism, but seems to be become more used in the UK and we live in a global world now! But mainly it’s less to type! 😀) so - I think I’ve changed my mind and going back to using starter battery. I will have a emergency switch on the VSR anyway so I’m not too worried about flat batteries. John - re: solar panels... I just don’t don’t think I need them. Had the boat 5 years with 2 multipurpose batteries and no starter battery and all has been fine. I tend to spend a lot of time cruising and not much time stopped. Also draw very little power (Fridge being the main thing. i also intend to put a battery monitor on so I can get some decent info on what I’m using (might show that I need solar). Anyone used one of those cheapo battery monitors on eBay/amazon? 30 quid instead of £100-£170 and get decent review on YouTube etc... cheers

Thanks all, that makes a lot f sense so decision mad. Stick it on house. i agree it would be nice to have a separate battery for thruster, but space would mean I think that I would need 2 of the red tops, one for starting and one for thruster. Pricey. I might go for the red top for starter though as that will leave me space if I change my mind later. TBH I have managed fine for the last 5 years on the 2 batteries I have. Never go on shore power unless at my home mooring but don’t have big power draw. Rarely use the tv, fridge is on all the time though. No inverters and all LEDs, so pretty frugal, just always in the back of my mind that I don’t have any emergency backup. cheers Jeremy

Hi - I currently have 2 leisure/multi purpose batteries with individual isolators giving a 1/2/both type arrangement. I am going to add a starter battery and make the current 2 batteries a single bank for house and a VSR between them. So will split domestics to house Bank and starting/instruments etc to starter battery. I also have a bow thruster. Not sure whether this should be on the starter or house battery circuit. Seems maybe it should be on the starter due to large power draw and starter battery being built more for that, but somehow that feels wrong as it’s used coming in to moor, so don’t want to knock the charge down on that when your about to switch off the engine and the starter has way less capacity. any advice or wisdom? cheers Jeremy

Does anyone know if there’s a website that will tell you actual real time bridge heights or predicted bridge heights? It would be really handy to know prior thanks actually getting to the bridge.

The BA towed it to hippersons in beccles to be lifted out and cut up. It’s now in a skip or 3

Thanks for all the tips. Glad I didn’t waste time and money with the celotex route...

Sure - that makes sense - thing is the boards have to be easily removable so there will inevitably be some gaps.

Hi - I’m looking to soundproof my engine bay. The engine is under the floor in the cockpit which has removeable ply boards. so I had a look on ASAP and the proper stuff looks flipping expensive. I’d have though some 25mm or 50mm celotex would do the job nicely glued on to the bottom of the flooring. anyone got any wisdom on this? jeremy