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Robin

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Robin last won the day on February 11

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  1. With the inside looking good its time to start on the outside of the coach roof. I start by trimming the excess ply at the edges and shape the overhang at the front. you can see from the offcuts the layers of ply and that they are tight together. After trimming the sides square I next round the edges to an ascetically pleasing shape, I make and use a template to make sure the edges are the same shape all round. Happy with the sides I turn my attention to the overhang at the front, I cut 40 softwood wedges and glue them under the overhang then fit a sheet of 4
  2. Before I start making the main formers I fit an angled batten to the cabin sides this will be used to temporarily hold the ply down at the edges. the plastic sheet is clamped behind the batten to protect the cabin sides from any excess glue. Next I cut a curve on one edge of some ply which matches the curve of the beam fitted to the aft bulkhead, after cutting them out I clamp them together and shape the top to make sure they are all identical. Due to the fact that I have to be able to remove the former from below after the roof is complete I have to fix batte
  3. Its been a little while since my last post, mainly due to the work involved in the next step. The new coach roof to the forward cabin which has been a bit of a challenge. The roof itself is curved in two directions a bit like an upturned saucer, unfortunately ply doesn't like bending in two different planes at the same time. The original roof was built using a system called cold molding basically laying and gluing layers of thin ply over a former of the desired shape and when set holds its formed shape. This is a very labor intensive process but does produce a very strong roof if
  4. Continuing with the moldings to the inside of the cabin sides one of the most labor intensive items is the window hopers. starting with the bottom channel. The forward cabin sides have quite a curve to them which means I have to first shape a section of timber against the side followed by a rebated section which will hold the base of the glass and from which everything will be built on. Step one is to clamp a section of timber to the cabin side then using a small block I scribe a line along the timber. With the timber marked I cut them out on the bandsaw.
  5. Hi Islander Unfortunately i don't know of anywhere locally that supplies good quality marine grade. I get my ply from a company in Bristol named Robbins Timber they do a Lloyd's approved marine range starting with one called Elite ( Gaboon throughout) then Super elite ( Rotary cut Sapele) they also supply all boat building hard woods. For African Mahogany or any boat building stock, it is Sykes timber in Warwickshire or Stones timber in Salcombe. But please be seated when asking them for prices.
  6. Good question, At the moment her hull still has its original planks, the ribs are original along with her keel and frames, 75% of her transom is original and the aft cabin roof. The engine and gearbox are all original. The glass in the windows seem to be the originals (OK I'm clutching at straws with that one) I would guess she is about 50% original so i have replaced the handle on Triggers broom but still have the original head. Perhaps a question for the forum is at what percentage does a boat go from being an original to a replica? My opinion is if it still has most of i
  7. Form here to the end of the project my posts will be a bit more spread out and will show what we are doing at any one time. Over the weekend we fitted the last of the larger bulkheads. After varnishing And fitted. It forms the side of a cupboard and this side will be the side to a sink unit. The previous bulkhead which went in plain now gets its stain. With all the bulkheads now in and fixed to the hull in their original positions, they all need fixing to the cabin sides while checking that they are straight and and parallel to each other. The fi
  8. My money is on African Mahogany (Khaya) Robin
  9. With the cabin sides and front in place it time to start fitting the bulkheads. The picture above is of the main bulkhead between the center cockpit and the forward cabin, as with all the others it is made of chipboard however this one at some point had been clad over with thin ply. The next picture is the new one viewed from the other side, to save time we varnish some of the bulkheads before I fit them, this can be a risky you need to be very carful and very confident it will fit. A small piece fits behind the steps up to the center cockpit. The next o
  10. Hi Janet Anne Yes it is Sikaflex on this occasion, to be more precise i used the 290 DC (Deck Caulk) which is more flexible than the 291i, which is an adhesive/sealant. The cant rails are bedded on Arbbo Mast a none setting butyl rubber sealing compound. (perhaps I'm not just OCD about wooden pellets?) Robin
  11. With the cabin sides cut and fitted in place, the cabin front was next, another board was cut to size and as with the sides the old front was use as a pattern. The aperture was prepared for the new front the old deck beam was clad in a new piece of mahogany to match. This facia is screwed to the beam and a small capping piece is fitted to the top it is beveled at the front edge and will support the base of the new front. A corner post is fitted along with a support beam to the top of the panel. The corner posts have an internal and external se
  12. The inside of the hull gets cleaned and painted again with Danboline bilge paint, white above and grey below the chine. We don't remove all the bulkheads at once to leave some strength to the structure. While my wife is painting I start on the starboard cabin side, the more observant of you will have noticed the old were ply and I am putting back solid mahogany. Along with the ply bulkheads this is probably the only other deviation from the original. The rational for this is 1, it should look better, 2, if I use ply I would have to join two sheets toget
  13. Along with the galley we painted the hull varnished the cabin sides and transom, Run new pipe work and connected the Ebespatcher wet heating system, connected the generator. (we didn't have time in phase 3) As soon as allowed we launched her and used her for day trips and obviously when restrictions were lifted we used her throughout the summer, we had an excellent summer afloat, all things considered. but as soon as the second lockdown was announced at the start of November, we got her back to the workshop to start phase five. This was going to be the biggest challenge to date! ev
  14. Following our summer afloat, November arrived all to soon so she is now back in the workshop and ready for phase 4 The main works in this phase will be a complete new galley, the old one had a small removable unit over the gearbox with just a worktop on top. outboard it had a sink set into the top with some poor cupboards below, the cooker is against the newly installed bulkhead. Time for change. The sink will move to the area over the gearbox it will also have a waste bin incorporated in the unit however it will need to be easily removable for access to the gearbox. The old.
  15. Hi Guys Thanks for the nice comments regarding my wife's varnishing, over the next couple of days I will sort out in my head a step by step guide to how we varnish then post it. Robin
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