Robin

We stopped at Goodchilds last season, a good setup, very good service but a little expensive at £30 for a pump out, Fuel price was about average. Robin

Hi Mouldy We had the same issue on Kingfisher as it has a 200liter tank, the carbon filter helped however the easiest and best solution is the add about a liter of blue loo concentrate every time you have a pump out. we have not had any smells since doing this. ( just add to the loo for the first flush) Boatyards only add enough for a small holding tank and some yards water that down.

On board in Loddon basin, I have never even had a phone signal before, Now have full 4g on O2. Robin

On the subject of bridges at Gt Yarmouth i notice the new bridge has buttresses protruding into the river on both sides which seems to reduced the width of the river by about 25% . Yarmouth has always been fast flowing so will this reduction in width make it a bit like shooting the rapids at certain times ? and will this bottleneck affect river levels?

Hi Roy Her Broads number is L87 Built by Hippersons at Beccles. She is on the list to be restored however the list is a bit long, it includes an Elysian 27, a 32ft wooden broads cruiser, a 37ft Golden light, and a mk1 Cortina estate, as well as the wooden boat we currently use called Kingfisher an ex Golden light. My wife thinks i suffer with multiple project syndrome. but at-least she knows where i am most of the time. Robin

Strangely it is very quiet in the workshop today. so we managed to get all the pellets in the rubbing strakes trimmed off and sanded flush. Chris is now applying the first coat of varnish. And took some pictures with a camera. Robin

With the capping section complete its now time for the rubbing strake. The strakes on the sides are 45mm high and are a half round in section, we will match this. To make it look uniform this will also be laminated over the same former however to match the 45mm height would require 13 strips at 3.5mm. I don't have any photos of the laminating process probably because it was a bit stressful, trying to hold 13 strips of timber glued on both sides, getting them round the former and keeping them all in line took some doing. but it came out ok in the end. Because we needed this complicated shape to be a complete half round section i could not use a router cutter to form the exact shape as the guide wheel would have been below the edge of the timber. the only option was to raise the router cutter and shape the remainder by hand. I make a template of the shape required. using a spokeshave (one of my favorite tools) i work my way along the rail until i am happy with the shape. you can clearly see the layers in this picture. The completed piece sanded and ready for fitting. And installed on the transom. More varnish The finished article The transom will now receive at least six more coats of varnish.

With the glue on the capping set, the next operation is to cut an angle and bevel the edge to match the slope of the transom. This is now offered up to the transom, which is then marked and cut out. The capping is now clamped in position and fettled in. So far so good With the cutout in the transom matched to the shape of the capping, i now have to rebuild the framing on the inside. 75mm x50mm oak at the base. Mahogany up the side sections. These will need to be beveled at the top edge to form a level base. I know the locker tops are level when she is in the water so i use these as my datum to get the frame level. The framework complete the capping can now be fitted. It is installed on a bed of none setting butyl rubber. Screwed down and the holes plugged. The transom has now been sanded back to bare wood to get rid of the shading where her name was removed Hetty seems impressed. The varnishing department now starts to build up the layers.

We have been using Kingfisher for a while now and have enjoyed every minute however we have been planning a couple of upgrades. 1. Window frames to the rear of the sliding canopy instead of the canvas sheet. I started this last winter and and managed to make and fit the frames but didn't complete it. 2. A cutout in the transom to make access easier when moored stern on. The current transom is a bit high and we aren't getting any younger. I will start with the transom, the first picture is as she was. You can see a joint line between the two slightly different colors Mahogany boards, this will be the base line of the cutout. I use masking tape to mark out the proposed cutout. Happy with the size and shape, I transfer the dimensions to the workbench and make any adjustments. I like the shape of the slopes but don't really like the look of the angular corners top and bottom , the joints to the capping pieces will also be susceptible to water ingress. I add in curves to the corners and want to make the entire capping section in one piece. The double lines are the proposed shape of the capping approximately 30mm thick. the radius of the corners is only 170mm so steam bending a capping is impossible. 900mm would be the minimum radius for 30mm mahogany and only if you had some very straight grain timber. The only other option is to Laminate. First job is to make a former, this will need to be 150mm wide to give me a wide enough capping to accommodate the slope of the transom. The next problem is the thickness of the laminates. To bend around the tight corners they would have to be about 3mm thick, I want to use 6mm laminates so i will steam them first to give me a fighting chance of getting them to bend round however epoxy doesn't adhere very well to wet wood. I will have to let them dry before i glue them together, they will still hold the rough shape. Another issue is the internal corners. when bending timber around a former it is a lot easier bending timber round an external radius ( stretching the fibers)rather than trying to compress timber into an internal corner. Steam box Laminates after they have cooled and been removed from the former. Now for some fun with glue, and cramps. And hey presto the capping is formed.

Hi The weekend you have chosen is the world OSY championship and is held over two days, the start jetty will be adjacent to the park just in front of the yacht station which would be a good place to enjoy the racing. if you moor in the Yacht station you can walk through the park to the pits and have a close look at the boats. they are a very friendly bunch.

Hi Tom Unfortunately the former i made for Andy's Bourne 35 bow section has been binned, i have repaired many a Bourne bow section over the years and they all differ slightly, A heads up regarding the keel on a Bourne 35! The keel its self is only constructed from the same thickness fiberglass as the hull, and is very prone to splitting on the bottom corners if not supported evenly along its length. Over the years i have had the pleasure of repairing at least six keels on Bourne's because of damage caused by uneven supporting blocks. I look forward to seeing pictures of your progress. Robin

Hi Guys You may be interested to know boat building timbers are still available if you know where to look. there are a couple of companies who still provide crooks, one in Yorkshire whose name escapes me at the moment and one in Wales. The boat building timber supplies co in Monmothshire, who's web site shows grown Crooks. you will have to do a web search as i cant work out how to do a link. Robin

Hi Andrew How long is a piece of string? If they are well maintained ( i know these will be) and you can keep the water out from between the hull and the rubbing strakes they will last indefinitely.these rubbing strakes are painted on the back and are bed on with a none setting Butyl rubber selant. Apart from collision damage most of the rubbing strakes i replace are due to them rotting from behind where water has got in and you don't see it until it is to late.

Thanks Grendel As i did such a good job, i get to do it all again next week on Lovejoy Robin

Hi Griff Sorry, but i don't let anyone play with my machines anymore however I'm happy to machine your timber and you or one of your team can help. Regarding the length of timber. you should specify long lengths when ordering or you could end up with 10fts which would make for a lot of joints. the longer they are the easier it is to bend round. I'm currently bending rubbing strakes round a Bourne hull and can advise the bow will need laminating about 1m from the tip then the front section to midships will need steaming, with the aft section going straight on. You need to allow 150mm overlaps for all the scarf joints. You will have your work cutout to complete all this in your time frame so if you can get it machined before you arrive all the better. Happy to meet at the wet shed when you are next down. Robin

Hi Griff From a professional wood butchers view i would raise the following points. by wanting the finished size to be 25mm thick, 38mm thick stock is needed which equates to 13mm of timber which is turned into sawdust! one third wasted. however the norm would be to use 25mm thick stock, when planned, finishes about 22mm thick which only wastes 3mm or about an eighth. it could save you a few bob! i would also ask what lengths it will be supplied in as you want to minimize the joints along the hull. The thinner timber would be easier to bend around the hull as well. Will you be machining it yourself? Robin

Hi Guys Please ignore this statement, everyone knows it is FERROUS metals that turn Oak black! (Must be my age) (Apologies to all Non Ferrous metals for this alleged slur on their character) Robin

The selection of wood for any part of a boat needs carful consideration several things need to be taken into account, For rubbing strakes my personal preference is for a Mahogany and there are hundreds to choose from. Oak is very popular but this can turn black quite quickly if water gets into it, contact with Non ferrous metals will also turn Oak black. Considerations 1, Suitability 2, Natural Durability 3, Density 4, Bending Characteristics 5, Availability 6, Cost The following is an extract from one of my boatbuilding books which should help with your selection. Another reference i use is Sykes timber website, they sell approximately different hardwoods, click on the hardwood section and select a timber it gives you all of the characteristics for that particular wood. Happy hunting Robin

Just a bit more information regarding Coelan It is a polyurethane type of varnish, the wood has to be clean and dry then sanded with nothing finer than 60 grit followed by a primer coat, Then six coats of clear Coelan varnish you do not sand between coats. If this system is applied correctly you end up with a very durable high gloss protective coating which can last over ten years however as stated previously if water gets under the edge it will peel off. If you like the sound of this for your boat i would recommend you are sitting down with a large drink in hand when asking for a quote. The primer coat costs about £25 per sqm followed by six coats at about £85 per coat per square meter. plus labor. Robin

It is a product called Coelan (very expensive) It forms a very thick protective coating that can last for ten years however as in this case if water gets under the edge it will peel off in sheets. Robin

This is really just a warning for boaters to be extra vigilant when navigating the river Chet. This Saturday the sun was shinning it was a beautiful morning and we were heading down the Chet at a very leisurely pace (thank goodness) we rounded one of the many tight bends keeping a sharp lookout for any on coming boats however to our surprise we came across a pair of wild swimmers!! luckily no boats were coming the other way and being confident in my boat handling skills I knew which way to turn the wheel to take my prop well away from them. They seemed oblivious to any danger they may have been in, we carried on our way warning any boaters coming the other way. Robin

We are still pressing on with the interior but I have just realized I haven't shown the exterior of the cabin coming together. We are now entering May and need to get her back in the water soon, so every spare hour is utilized. I mentioned earlier in the post, the entrance doors were the originals in a new frame they came up really nice and blend in very well. The Vee berths are complete and the back panels are covered with a felt type material to make it warmer to the touch when laid in the berth. (Its a lining fabric for campervans) The triangular section between the bunks get a varnished top and becomes the tool store. later on I intend to make plywood trays to slot in to hold all my tools and spares we carry on board. (probably next winter) And with the cushions fitted. Light fittings came from Lee at Jackson Marine, they cleaned up very nice and match the rest of the boat, four in total were needed. All the floor panels are carpeted and dropped in. Spot the mistake with the floor in the saloon? The helm came in for some treatment over the winter, The wheel got varnished and the brass polished, The seat was moved back 60mm to make it more comfortable but that meant I had to make side panels which hold the controls. With just a few minor bits and pieces to complete its time to get her in the water. She has been out of the water for about six months so we will keep her in the slings for a couple of days to let her take up. Its now about the 20th May so we get her through the lock on the 28th and enjoy the Bank holiday weekend for our first break. The Bank holiday turned out to to be a fantastic weekend with no problems with the boat. We have now used her every weekend to date and plan to do the the same through out the summer with the odd week thrown in for good measure. This was Phase 5 of the planned 5 winter phases planned for the complete restoration. we are over the moon with what we have achieved to date but i already have some up grades and modifications for next winter. If you see us on the river or moored up somewhere please give us a shout. but please don't think you can get away with a " nice boat" comment and walk on, that is just the trigger for me to start telling you all about the last five years, many a weary boater has had to be rescued by my wife with the phrase "Robin let them go they have got a life to be getting on with" I hope you have enjoyed our restoration and we plan to be back next winter with the upgrades. Robin & Chris

Hi Sam As I'm only just out of the dog house for this one i would not like to confess the exact amount on this forum however you could pay the mooring fees at Beccles Yacht Station for 24 days and nights and still have enough left over for an ice cream on your last day. My excuse was it was a makeup mirror and as such a present for my wife!

Hi Guys Thanks for all the positive comments. Lulu The paint we use for the decks is International Interdeck it covers very well. and i haven't forgotten about your request for a step by step guide to varnishing. Robin

With the interior coming together nicely Chris is busy varnishing the cabin sides and painting the decks. The decks are scraped to remove any loose paint or dirt, the toe rails and cant rails taped, then on with the paint. its easier to remove the aft cockpit locker tops and paint them while they are removed. With the decks complete Chris presses on with sanding and painting the hull. When the hull is dry a quick coat of antifoul is next on the list. Back inside the door frames get varnished, The pipe boxing behind the toilet is constructed and laminated with more of the blue Formica and will be capped off with Mahogany. Please ignore some of the dates in the pictures, I didn't take enough pictures at the time of construction so I had to take some more yesterday to show how some of the items were completed. The waste from the sink is connected to the hull fitting ready to complete the cupboard. From the main saloon to the floor in the forward cabin we have approximately a 400mm drop I build a step across, this has a removable top to give access to the bilge pump and hides the pipe work to the heater matrix. And complete. The original sink area was just open above and below however we decided to infill these areas for a tidier finish. And all finished off with a period shaving mirror.