Swordfish

Hi Diesel Falcon, No problem, not hyjacking at all, adding a few funnies makes it all more interesting. If you think about the weather or the economy, everything seems very dull. Re the hull extension, I do have some past experience with hull design and development, so I decided to do this modification to my hull, but as is often the sensible route, I kept quiet until the water test. I am realy amazed with the result, far better than I expected, and a real bonus is that the customary and always very annoying steering " wonder " with this type of sterndrive boat has now been eliminated. I think Wombat's tanks will be great for use with a drying out mooring, I'm sure David and Perry will be first in the que to buy from Wombat.

Hello Smallfish, You must have cruised past St. Olaves and nicked the idea from me. I bear no malice i didn't have time to apply for a patent. I hear you did all the GRP work yourself? Could you possibly advise how i could seal the top of mine.i.jpg[/attachment]

Hi, My Jeep is the " WJ " model, built in the States, not Austria, because it has the " new " for Jeep overhead cam 4.7 V8. My mpg would be close to your figure, but without the 2. I only use it for towing and when it snows

Hi Col, The result in the water is quite amazing, I'm very pleased. Is your drive / steering all OK now ? Paul

Hi Jonny, I see you noticed the little alteration I did over the winter. Many Bayliners in the USA are fitted with a " hull extention " because they are stern heavy. Mine also seemed to suffer with this problem, as indeed many sterndrive boats do. I replaced the old swim platform with two hull shape " tanks ", and have gained just over 300Kg bouyancy at the transom. Regards, Paul

Hello All, It seems to have been a long cold winter, and then a very wet spring. I seem to have been waiting a long time to launch the boat, but finally launched today. Paul

Hi Rich, I wish you the very best with the venture, as you know,we pass there very regularly, will see you soon. Paul

Hi Rich, I did learn last winter what the snow load can do. I have the twin rail on the flybridge, ( the ones that will support your new front cover later ) and a new support rail I bent in the centre of the fore deck, all the rails are linked with 2" webbing. Hopefully it will stay in place if we have severe weather. This cover is the one I bought from the USA. Paul

Thanks a lot for the info, last year I used a two pack epoxy primer from Marine and Industrial for my drive, it was specially for aluminum. I now have another drive to prepare before fitting to the boat. It's good to keep busy over the winter !

Hi Strowager, I plan to strip all my existing antifoul completely, did you use a primer on the gel coat before application of the Trilux 33 ? I gather that because Trilux does not contain copper, it is non conductive. Paul

I have a workshop just outside Norwich, it's too low to get the boat inside, but plenty of room outside.

Yes David, that is why it is always suggested to leave a gap between the hull antifoul and metal fittings such as outdrives. I have another drive to fit to the boat ( different gear ratio ) so I would like to keep it clean. I have just looked at the spec. on Trilux 33, it seems to be the right paint for a sterndrive. Regards, Paul

A question to those of you with " Sterndrive " boats. Do you use any form of antifoul on the actual drive leg ? My drive was totally re-sprayed last winter, and now after the sumer in the river it looks terrible, and it has been very difficult to clean.

Hi Rich, All pressure washed and wrapped for the winter, but lots of work planned ! Regards, Paul

Hi, Welcome to the site, you should find lots of useful info here, with many helpful friendly members. Regards, Paul

The morning after the night before ?? Did you sleep well mark !

The gathering at Coldham Hall yesterday, it was good to finally meet some of you. We had a very good evening.

Coldham Hall this afternoon, very warm and sunny but rather quiet - I'm sure it will be very different tomorrow ! Paul

Food Order Done

David, there is a footpath from near you hotel to my mooring, but it might be more difficult on the return trip with the addition of alcohol !! Paul

Hi, Can you please add us for the meal on Saturday : Paul & Jean, Swordfish ( 28' ) Either side or stern on will be OK, no electric hook up required, We will NOT be staying over night - back to Norwich by river. Paul

I can't quite see the exhausts, so he may have done the right thing and bought the electric version !!

Hi Steve, The Euro / US instruments are different in that they show Metric / Imperial scales, each must have its correct matching sender. The resistance of these metric / imperial senders is very different. I do have some installation sheets which give resistance readings at my workshop, will look for them when there next. Most of the guys at ASAP are quite knowledgable, one has been to the Faria factory, so they should help you determine which fuel sender you have. It is very important to adjust the sender correctly, the gague is useless unless it gives you a true measurement of tank conntent. The pivot point of the float arm is the actual resistance unit, it should be adjustable in height, this height is critical, relevant to the depth of your tank, then then the length of the float arm gives you the range : empty / full. I would suggest before you mount the sender in the tank, mount the sender through some plywood, connect all the wires and then perform the adjustments. Set the " empty " reading to leave a decent reserve of fuel, I set mine to show empty with 10 gallons remaining. Regards, Paul

Surely our Country has many far more deserving causes desperately in need of £ 7 million !!

Hello and welcome.