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Posts posted by smitch6
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yes water is going in, all pipes are clear, it isn't coming out of the toilet and done it before i put a service kit on it
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has anyone got a pair of ali oars for my rib pls?
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i have the 2000 model, grey handle and the same sticker on the front
and the service kit was from 2000 too
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1 hour ago, Smoggy said:
Daft question but is the valve the right way round? Will it pump just water?
yes anything apart from poo goes thru no problems, so if theres wee and paper thats fine
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i have put a bit of clear pipe on the outlet to see what is going on, and when it blocks, nothing is coming out into the pipe so it is getting stuck internally i would presume the joker valve
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no we have to get an old battery cable and shove it through........
yep not a nice thought, but thats the only way it seems to go
yes we do use good paper lol
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Just now, ZimbiIV said:
Looks like a blocked pipe then.
Now its hot thats best time to change it but get the proper pipe.
Or take plenty of senna pods!
paul
it's defo not a blocked pipe.
it gets stuck before it even leaves the toilet, which makes me think it's the joker valve thing
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straight out, the pipe is only about 12" nothing in the way whatsoever
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i've just put a brand new one in and overhauled it but it still does it
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Sorry for the topic but i have had problems,
I have a jabsco manual toilet, it has the rubber choke, tried a flat 1 and a 3 way 1 from jabsco,
when you have a poo it gets stuck in the toilet,
so you're pumping the handle and the water just comes up, nothing going down the pipe.
i've tried emptying it and nothing happens there either,
i would suggest it's getting stuck in the rubber choke thing
can i remove that? it's not under water so i haven't got to worry about feedback etc
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right back to the drawing board, i had been thinking i had to use stainless, which as you know is a nightmare to cut a D hole.
so after chatting with Brian wards they said they use acrylic so i have ordered a round disc with the engraving on as they are only £5 posted,
and ordered an A5 3mm sheet of black rigid acrylic off flebay for £3.50 and i'm going to have a god at mounting the disc onto the sheet and cutting a D out so fingers crossed
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yes it is a 128sa.....
the plate i'd need is about 90mm square, i'm not even bothered about the lettering, just need a plate to stop the switch turning so the D hole is the most important bit
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i have been searching and searching for days and days for a little plate and the only thing i can get is a small circular disc which wouldn't work as it's only 40mm so nothing to screw to the dash,
never even thought of Brian Ward, just rung them and they can make me a plate for £30 as the ones they stock are only £3 but are small circular ones and won't work.
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i want to change it because i have a round hole instead of the D so no amount of tightening will cure it,
and because of the round hole it can be a pig to start as you have to tighten it time and wiggle the key.
yes i have tried a brand new lock and it still does it.
i would like something simple that i flick a switch and push a button, save messing about with having to fabricate a metal plate with a D in it, which i have tried but it isn't easy to make a D in a stainless steel plate......
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4 hours ago, Vaughan said:
I have just remembered! The key will have a round black backing plate, which says "off run heat start" and this has a keyway, to stop it turning on the base of the key. So all you have to do is screw the plate onto the dash with two small screws and hey presto! If this plate is missing I imagine you can easily order it as a spare part.
nope no plate,
3 hours ago, ZimbiIV said:Sounds like the thread has gone on the locking ring.
Just change the ignition switch.
Not that expensive and easier that faffing with rewiring.
paul
thread hasn't gone, i've got a brand new one also, but as you turn the key to start it just undo's and comes loose no mater how tight you have it.
3 hours ago, Smoggy said:Those switches are about £16, not worth faffing about.
i have already bought a new one and yes it is worth faffing about.......
2 hours ago, OldBerkshireBoy said:Not worth faffing about with? C`mon people please consider that we can do whatever we want on our own boats within the BSC.
thankyou for backing me up much appreciated
2 hours ago, FreedomBoatingHols said:This does seem like an incredibly complicated solution. Add to that the fact that a BMC 1.5 often requires different levels of preheating (or no preheating if its warm) then the auto-preheat solution is probably not a solution at all and will just introduce unnecessary battery drain on a warm engine and possibly make it impossible to start after a very cold night of having been left for months. There will be a lot of wiring to get this to work and I doubt that it will work as well as fixing the existing problem.
even a warm engine will benefit from some type of preheat, it stops it smoking for one at start up,
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I have a standard lucas ignition on my bmc diesel engine boat.
the ignition is 1 end and the engine is the other.
I am changing the ignition for 2 switches and a push button start as the ignition keeps spinning,
So it will be 1 switch will ignite the ignition, 1 momentary switch will heat the glow plugs, push button will start the engine.
another option i have is 1 switch will ignite the ignition, i then have a timer & relay to heat the glow plugs on this switch.
The stop isn't on the ignition
How do i wire the switches etc pls?
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tried the highwaymans knot down the boat and it is perfect thank you
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that seems perfect thank you
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i usually do but we were there a while and it was ok to start with
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looks simple, will give it a go
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Hi launched my new to me broads boat yesterday, been quite a few years since i had a large boat, my previous one was only a 20'
this one is 26' long x 10.6wide so quite a lump
anyways she drove lovely, but we had to stop so the wife could do a conference call for her work on the way from the launch spot to the new moorings.
the only place i could find was on the river side with no proper moorings but there was a built in ladder so i tied the rope to the ladder rung.
I passed a loop through then tied it off however the tide moved the stern of the boat out into the river quite badly,
so i had to pull the stern back towards the bank and then put a bank hook in and tied that on which helped.
anyway while pulling her back in i pulled my arms and shoulders as i couldn't release the rope on the ladder as it had got so tight, i tried using the engine to move the stern in but nope i had to pull her in.
which knot would of been good to tie onto the rung, so i could of slipped it with the loose end?
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still after one of these pls if anyone has 1 that the screw can be roved to inflate.
mine is all white
i did get given 1 but it doesn't match but will do great to attach to the mooring landing
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no annoyingly, he said he might know someone but i'd rather pay a bit and use a proper company
(sorry Folks) Poo Getting Stuck
in Technical Questions and Answers
Posted
the complete kit was replaced