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smitch6

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Posts posted by smitch6

  1. Sorry for the topic but i have had problems,

    I have a jabsco manual toilet, it has the rubber choke, tried a flat 1 and a 3 way 1 from jabsco,

    when you have a poo it gets stuck in the toilet,

    so you're pumping the handle and the water just comes up, nothing going down the pipe.

    i've tried emptying it and nothing happens there either,

    i would suggest it's getting stuck in the rubber choke thing

    can i remove that? it's not under water so i haven't got to worry about feedback etc

  2. right back to the drawing board, i had been thinking i had to use stainless, which as you know is a nightmare to cut a D hole.

    so after chatting with Brian wards they said they use acrylic so i have ordered a round disc with the engraving on as they are only £5 posted,

    and ordered an A5 3mm sheet of black rigid acrylic off flebay for £3.50 and i'm going to have a god at mounting the disc onto the sheet and cutting a D out so fingers crossed

     

  3. i have been searching and searching for days and days for a little plate and the only thing i can get is a small circular disc which wouldn't work as it's only 40mm so nothing to screw to the dash,

    never even thought of Brian Ward, just rung them and they can make me a plate for £30 as the ones they stock are only £3 but are small circular ones and won't work.

  4. i want to change it because i have a round hole instead of the D so no amount of tightening will cure it,

    and because of the round hole it can be a pig to start as you have to tighten it time and wiggle the key.

    yes i have tried a brand new lock and it still does it.

    i would like something simple that i flick a switch and push a button, save messing about with having to fabricate a metal plate with a D in it, which i have tried but it isn't easy to make a D in a stainless steel plate......

  5. 4 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    I have just remembered! The key will have a round black backing plate, which says "off run heat start" and this has a keyway, to stop it turning on the base of the key. So all you have to do is screw the plate onto the dash with two small screws and hey presto! If this plate is missing I imagine you can easily order it as a spare part.

    nope no plate, 

    3 hours ago, ZimbiIV said:

    Sounds like the thread has gone on the locking ring.

    Just change the ignition switch.

    Not that expensive and easier that faffing with rewiring.

    paul

     

    thread hasn't gone, i've got a brand new one also, but as you turn the key to start it just undo's and comes loose no mater how tight you have it.

    3 hours ago, Smoggy said:

    Those switches are about £16, not worth faffing about.

    i have already bought a new one and yes it is worth faffing about.......

    2 hours ago, OldBerkshireBoy said:

    Not worth faffing about with?  C`mon people please consider that we can do whatever  we want on our own boats within the BSC. 

    thankyou for backing me up much appreciated

    2 hours ago, FreedomBoatingHols said:

    This does seem like an incredibly complicated solution. Add to that the fact that a BMC 1.5 often requires different levels of preheating (or no preheating if its warm) then the auto-preheat solution is probably not a solution at all and will just introduce unnecessary battery drain on a warm engine and possibly make it impossible to start after a very cold night of having been left for months. There will be a lot of wiring to get this to work and I doubt that it will work as well as fixing the existing problem.

     

    even a warm engine will benefit from some type of preheat, it stops it smoking for one at start up,

     

  6. I have a standard lucas ignition on my bmc diesel engine boat.

    the ignition is 1 end and the engine is the other.

    I am changing the ignition for 2 switches and a push button start as the ignition keeps spinning,

    new ignition panel

    So it will be 1 switch will ignite the ignition, 1 momentary switch will heat the glow plugs, push button will start the engine.

    another option i have is 1 switch will ignite the ignition, i then have a timer & relay to heat the glow plugs on this switch.

    timer and this is the relay

    The stop isn't on the ignition

    How do i wire the switches etc pls?

     

  7. Hi launched my new to me broads boat yesterday, been quite a few years since i had a large boat, my previous one was only a 20'

    this one is 26' long  x 10.6wide so quite a lump

    anyways she drove lovely, but we had to stop so the wife could do a conference call for her work on the way from the launch spot to the new moorings.

    the only place i could find was on the river side with no proper moorings but there was a built in ladder so i tied the rope to the ladder rung.

    I passed a loop through then tied it off however the tide moved the stern of the boat out into the river quite badly,

    so i had to pull the stern back towards the bank and then put a bank hook in and tied that on which helped.

    anyway while pulling her back in i pulled my arms and shoulders as i couldn't release the rope on the ladder as it had got so tight, i tried using the engine to move the stern in but nope i had to pull her in.

    which knot would of been good to tie onto the rung, so i could of slipped it with the loose end?

     

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