Naijan

Thank you for all suggestion I have ordered Loctite 577 will be fitting all seacocks next week, maybe more expensive but seems to be much easier to align everything in correct way. Just go back from the boatyard, all day spend on laminating partitions with Formica still slightly high after sniffing contact adhesive.

When fitting the bent hose connector to the valve with use of correct thread sealant, is it ok to not tightening it right to the end lets say leave turn or two so it can be correctly aligned?

Yes i heard about Loctite 577 is this supposed to be used with PTFE tape or on his own, i probably need to dry fit everything to make sure of correct aligment of the valve handles.

Something like m3 stuff? Do you use regular PTFE tape?

Just bought set of bronze fittings and valves (cost fortune), I'm thinking of using Sikaflex 291 for bedding, what would be the best stuff to use for sealing the threads.

Thank you for that guys, I was 99.9% set up for Bronze. I have found reasonably cheap supplier selling DZR Bronze fittings. Will be ordering and fitting them next week, thinking back we were lucky that this boat didn't went down after we bought it. Almost all the skin fittings (apart raw engine water intake) have crumbled away during later restoration. All the best

Apologises for re-heating the topic. I'm about to order all skin fitting dilemma is Bronze or Brass? Thanks

Thank you guys, i will probably use an epoxy based glue to cut down the time. Another thing, our boat was completely gutted down to an empty shell, everything had to be rebuilt inside, that includes the ceiling with new battens epoxied in and new flexi ply with foam backed upholstery. Initially I was going to leave the void empty between the grp and the new roof lining following words of warning about the condensation problem I could have if i put any insulation (from one of the boat yards "old hands") However after recently working on the boat in full sun (rare occurrences) with doors and hatches wide open, the inside got very hot. So I have decided I will put silver blanket type insulation. If anyone has any comment on that it would be very welcome.

Yes that's probably the best idea, how is the one you done wearing, is this pressure sensitive glue holding well, or would you recommend epoxy based? I'm doing the same thing in the cabin but on larger scale will post the effect when finish.

Hi guys, i know this posting is quite old, however i wonder if anyone who fitted a Kardean flooring type in cockpit could give us some feedback on how UV stable it is, has is faded or not? Thanks

Sorry for bothering you with all these questions, in one of you past replies you have mentioned an oil drip pan under the engine. As we will probably fit smaller engine now there should be much more space to fit the drip pan. Be honest i was looking online to find anything about it with no success. How this should be constructed, is this just a pan under the engine sump collecting any potential oil leeks and preventing it to mix with bilge water, are there any legal guidance/requirements to how this should be done? Thanks

Oh no ......this is a leisure boat I have no intention going nowhere in rough weather lol

From your experience, if I wanted to fit newer engine rather then recon Perkins would something with 30hp be enough for 28 footer? Thanks

Thanks Mark much appreciated, will probably follow your advice.

Believe it or not but we have managed to finally remove the engine. It's taken two days of grime, one railway sleeper, a block and tackle, together with a forklift to finally lift it of the boat. Now we have got a big gaping hole smelling of oil and old bilge water which needs to be cleaned and painted. Could anyone recommend a good degreaser to get rid of over 40 years of dirt and grime. I also need to paint it - would a gelcoat be good choice for that? I have also managed to get the diesel tank out, which had around 60 litres of black smelly diesel remaining in it. The tank looks in good condition so, i think i will sandblast the outside and repaint it. Obviously i will pressure wash the inside which should not be difficult as there is a big inspection hatch on the top. Now i need to find a drawing of a diesel purification system, as we are planning keeping this boat for long time so it's probably worth investing in. Any words of wisdom very welcome.

Is this 'fisherman's' or 'Norfolk' strainer worth keeping if in good condition? Do you ever bother with fitting seacock's to fittings above water line like washbasin drains or is it inline non-return valve enough?

Yes black water will be pumped out, engine still have original seacock with "can" like bronze or brass strainer which needs to be serviced and re-sealed or replaced if not good anymore. Other thing.....there are two cockpit drains with gate valves which needs to be replaced too, is there any particular reason for using gate valves for cockpit drains? Problem is boat has been out of the water now for over two years and all wooden spacers on seacocks are bone dry and slightly shrunk, I want to replace them with fibreglass.

Yes that's probably best way, thanks for link they got some good stuff there.

Hi thanks for getting back, yes I'm in UK boat is in Essex, I was trying to find some UK suppliers for flanged seacocks UK prices are very high, maybe I just didn't look hard enough. What size would you recommend for raw water intake if I may ask.

I don't know if anyone is checking this forum anymore?! .........however won't hurt to ask. I need to buy new set of seacock's to replace all old corroded fittings, and I'm thinking about buying Groco flanged seacock 1,1/2 for black water (is it big enough?) something like that And probably something like that but smaller for raw water intake. I wonder if anyone have used Groco products and can comment on that, or maybe there is better alternative without cosmic pricing. Thanks

I need to take old engine out before fitting re-con any tips how to make it easier? Other thing....diesel tank have been sitting unattended for 2years bet is full of wonderful things now. We are thinking about fitting new tank as well as I'm not sure the original one will be possible to clean, any thoughts on the replacement? Greetings

Ok let me explain what was i thinking about in this setup. I wanted (which seems to be impossible from what you are saying), to use the same hull fitting for shower and waste tank pump out, and the same pump. I didn't wanted to put gray shower water to the waste tank (which will be physically impossible in this setup) that's why pump is located where it is. Loop between two diverter valves marked with "1" will go higher(bad drawing) I thought that using these two diverter valves you can created two completely sealed from each other circuits. If you want to pump out holding tank through the deck you turn diverter valve "a" to position cutting off the rest. If you want to Pump out to the sea you turn valve "a" to cut out the deck and then turn "b" to cut out the shower. Because pump is located where it is (plus diverter valve)there is no way you can suck waste to the shower tray, also shower pipe will have inline non-return valve. I don't know about smell transferring to the heads in this setup, holding tank will be behind 2 diverter valves and inline non-returning valve. Question for this set up to ever work(if), is there a pump versatile enough to be used for shower and holding tank pump out. If not perhaps for this to work use two pumps one between diverter valves "a" and "b" for empting the tanks and one for shower before the diverter valve "b"(on shower pipe)but doing that you risk accidently pumping waste to the shower or gray water to the tank. As i said before all thinking behind was to use same skin fitting i don't want to drill more holes.

Thats what i mean by diverter valve http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Y-VALVE-38mm- ... 3ccba11822 If you look on the plan there is no way how shower water can go to the tank.

This is what i think i want, we got this boat since 3 or so years Why this set up wont work?