How Do I Remove This?

[Baitrunner]

OK folks any ideas on how to remove this floor plate for a table leg?

As you can see it has fractured around the socket for the leg and explains why I had a wobbly table. I have removed the screws, but the thing is stuck solid.

I am going to assume it has been bonded/sikaflexed in from new and the only way I can think off to remove it is a hammer and an old wall paper scraper (nice and thin compared to a bolster or chisel) to try and prise it off. Obviously without ruining the teak decking.

Has anyone done this before?

My other option was to use a Dremel to try and cut it into manageable sections and try and remove them one at a time. I went for a Dremel rather than an angle grinder as it is an aluminium casting so shouldn't be hard to cut through and it is a little more delicate in case I slip!

Answers on a post card please....

[Wildfuzz]

I think I would remove the center and you can see what you working on, and if levering it from the center less chance of marking the teak where it can be seen when the new one is placed.

[Gracie]

With a ruddy great broom, would be my advice  

Grace

[Baitrunner]

Good idea Stuart - that's why your in the intelligence unit

OK I deserved that Grace

[grendel]

put a steel plate on the deck, or a piece of wood, and lever against that with a crowbar, the important thing is to protect the rest of the deck from the crowbar, and spread the load, if the base cracks that isnt a problem, but you dont want to damage the deck.

[grendel]

Alternately use a screwdriver or bar in the screw holes to lever it up

[ranworthbreeze]

Hi Mark,

I am with Stuart on this try to remove the tube in the center, you could use your Dremel, but I would be inclined to use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade in it. Do several cuts, you can then lever against each section to ease out the tube.

Once that is out you can see the depth of the circular plate, you could use the jigsaw again or go for the Dremel now you know the depth to cut.

Best of luck.

Regards

Alan

[stumpy]

A bit of gentle heat (hot air gun, not gas axe!) might soften whatever gloop is holding it down enough to get an edge under it.

[FairTmiddlin]

Drill three holes around the centre socket, big enough to get a decent big screwdriver into and with a block of wood on the decking, lever going around the holes should make it pop off.Just dont

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Baitrunner said:

My other option was to use a Dremel to try and cut it into manageable sections and try and remove them one at a time. I

I think your own idea is the safest option Batrunner......

As you say, it's aluminium, so will cut easily, even with the small diameter Dremel grinding discs.

Since the centre is already fractured, and wobbling about, that will just lift out when you've removed the big round flange.

It sounds as though it has been bedded on Sikaflex, in which case if you try to lever it out whole, it will almost certainly disturb the teak decking underneath. That would introduce real problems, because water could seep in after the socket is removed and replaced. Believe me, you'll never separate that large an area in one go without damaging the surface underneath.

Going with your idea, I would make two parallel cuts about an inch apart, and then lever that piece out with a chisel in the sawcut.

You'll then see what you're up against. I'd then cut out each slice like a cake, levering each one off separately. That way you'll exert the minimum force on the teak deck.

I wouldn't use heat, or any power tool bigger than the dremel.

I once had to remove a one foot square plywood pad that had been Sikaflexed to a fibreglass floor in a cockpit. (The bottom skin of the boat).

In the end I had to router a close grid of full depth slots in the damn thing to get each small square out.

Boating magazines advise people against bedding anything on Sikaflex, that you might "ever want to remove again".

People still use it too much though !!

[Baitrunner]

Looks like I am going to need a bigger tool bag for this weekend now.

The heat gun is a good idea if it will soften the glue, but will have to be careful not to melt the caulking or burn the teak around the edge.

I can see this being a mix of heat, levers, dremels, drills, large screwdrivers and there will be a hammer at some point. Oh and if your in Brundall and hear swearing - you know not to disturb me unless you have a spare beer in your hand

As Strowy seems to have worried in case it is Sikaflex (and I bet it is) I like the small and often approach.

I will try and let you all know how I get on unless you see another post from me titled "How to replace the teak decking in your cockpit".

[Guest]

That's a lovely looking deck Mark.

Well worth the gentle archaeological methods....

[Bayleaf]

Before doing anything I would cut around the outside with a Stanley knife to try and stop the teak from splitting!

[JawsOrca]

Yeah I'd dremel it as strowager mentioned (although I'd probably try to do a 1/6th cut out like a pizza). but be very careful not to go all the way through which will be very hard. Then carefully with something thin and blunt like a kitchen/table knife just see if you can get under it and release any sealant that was used and also try to just snap off the last bit which you've you've cut out and lift out (If you can get it lifted even slightly then attack again with the dremel but that would give you the bit of clearance needed to ensure you don't mark the floor.. You may need to gradually reduce it down by cutting off more pizza slices.  Good luck. I'd be worried you would mark it, but take your time and go gentle.. It is lovely flooring and would be a shame to mark it (Although I suspect the UV damage will give you a noticeable circle anyway).

Please replace with a stainless steel version.. worth the extra couple of quid

I think you should video the process and share with us  

 

[Baitrunner]

 Alan. I have already bought the bits as not seen any SS versions that are the same size so have had to go back to Ali - not a good choice on a sea going boat if you ask me! As you say if they had been smaller replacements then not just UV damage, but whatever I manage to do of the glue has already done.

No way am i videoing it - maybe a few pictures. If it goes well maybe a few after shots - if it goes badly - a pic of the new flooring!!

As you say little by little - problem is I am an impatient sod. Maybe I will leave the hammer at home after all.

[JawsOrca]

You wimp by not recording   Perhaps this is a job for a pro if you aren't patient lol  

What's the diameter?, I will be in most of our chandlers down here in the next couple of days and I'm sure I've seen one a large base one in stainless somewhere, I can grab and get it up to you. The UV damage will stand out like a sore thumb and you will hate it.. trust me.. well worth a good look about. 

 

[Baitrunner]

Thanks Alan - love you too To be honest I don't think I am up to Robins standard with a video camera, but lets see what happens.

I did have a picture with the tape measure across it but deleted it once I got the new ones which are exactly the same size and have the screw holes in the same place!! It's about 7.5 inches - the diameter of the plate before any funny comments.

I have seen SS ones but they were around the 5 inch mark and even though I would prefer SS I think the state of the teak under the current plate may be real bad if it has a bonding agent on it.

If you do spot any let me know and I can always say yay or nay. If you don't mind that is?

Nice new SS legs and a nice new teak table arriving in May so no major rush from my side.

[Guest]

15 hours ago, Baitrunner said:

I have seen SS ones but they were around the 5 inch mark and even though I would prefer SS I think the state of the teak under the current plate may be real bad if it has a bonding agent on it.

Despite it's tremendous holding power, the Sealistic coating will peel away from the teak very cleanly once you get the plate off.

I'd concentrate very carefully on avoiding straining the deck itself by avoiding any levering of the whole plate. If it is cut carefully into segments with the dremel, the lifting force is greatly reduced and each section can be levered up against its adjacent section, further reducing the strain on the deck.

Also, I'd definitely replace it with stainless steel, because that will never fracture around the socket again, being so much stronger.

Even if you have to go with a smaller diameter, you could cut a thin blanking disc from stainless steel or even formica, as a washer underneath the new flange to match the existing diameter.

[Baitrunner]

36 minutes ago, Strowager said:

Even if you have to go with a smaller diameter, you could cut a thin blanking disc from stainless steel or even formica, as a washer underneath the new flange to match the existing diameter.

Hadn't thought of that at all!! Damn good idea sir.It's funny how you get bogged down in something and have your mind set and forget to try and think of other options.

The power of forum minds.

[Baitrunner]

Well no video Alan, but a few pictures. 

I can also confirm there was not a swear word during the whole process. 

After a while transporting all the tools to the boat I decided to start with a bit of the hot air gun to see if that would work. It didn't as couldn't get any leverage. So the dremel came out and I made 2 cuts. Using an old paint scraper I could use it as a lever on the cut and a small amount of movement.  A bit more heat gun and all of a sudden one half cane loose. 

Another few minutes of heat and levering and heh presto. 2nd half off. 

You can see the gunk that was left. Very rubbery and soon scraped off. 

The other plate looked good so I spent some time cleaning it up. Only to discover after 30 mins that it too had a hair line fracture. 

So the same routine as before was tried. It worked but was a lot harder as the socket had not fully fractured. 2 plates removed and floor cleaned ready for refitting  

Here is the (not quite finished) product with new base plates and legs in place. 

Finished it off today with a little sealant around the socket and screw holes before screwing down.

Once she is set will make sure it's solid and then I can fit the stainless cover plates. Just got to wait for the new table to arrive now.

Thanks for all your tips and advice. 

[riyadhcrew]

Well done Mark. Looks spot-on to me.

[ranworthbreeze]

I have to agree Mark, a job well done. I thought from your earlier photos that the sockets were recessed into the decking.

Regards

Alan

[Baitrunner]

I'm glad they weren't - that would have been a nightmare.

[JawsOrca]

Looks brilliant job. Well done mark  

[Guest]

Yes, a very neat job.

Well worth taking the extra effort to minimize damage to that deck.