Broad Ambition - The Model

[BroadAmbition]

Ok, I can assist here, I'll look through photo's for you and find something suitable.  Btw the exterior decks are not Holly and Teak, it's the interior decks that have that finish.  The exterior decks are (Or will be once I complete the Stbd side) Teak with black caulking.  Not actual teak of course but a upvc copy called 'Dek King'

Griff

[grendel]

well the deck pieces came into work with me, they have had a grid pencilled on and have been scanned in on the A3 copier at work, next job is to piece together the pieces in CAD, scale them and trace around the deck outline - this will get smaller when the cabin sides and toe rails are fitted, so the CAD drawing will be amended to the new extents then the 'teak with black caulking' drawn on and suitably coloured then laser printed ready to be glued into place on the decks, a suitable coating of varnish will be applied to waterproof the whole and seal it to the deck.

[BroadAmbition]

well the deck pieces came into work with me,

Which I'm reading as      'I could do with those photo's sooner rather than later'        Ok - I'm onto it

Griff

[BroadAmbition]

Right - Photo's sent via email just now (Larger format).  The deck hatches will have new seamless polished stainless steel borders over the joints replacing the current mitred aluminium ones.  Also there will be four LED Deck lights on the port and stbd decks, evenly spaced from fwd to aft along the cabin side where it meets the deck with a new cant rail running full length around the cabin sides slightly larger and in between the deck lights.  Hope this makes some sort of sense.  I believe I have emailed you the latest outstanding times list so you have got a 'Heads Up'  There is also new polished s/steel bull nose edgings for the edge of the deck going into the well deck.  (The port one is fitted)

There are also (In stock) two new flat solar panels to be fitted on the aft coach house roof after removal of the current single one so that will change her appearance too.

Griff

 

 

[grendel]

Not at all Charlie, there is a lot of work to do before I get to the stage I need the deck planking, it was just that last night I had the thought that I really needed to scan the deck parts before I glued them down (much easier option). the dek-king comes later once I have the decks on, cabin sides and toe rails sorted.

Thanks for the photos anyway.

[grendel]

I must say, having looked over the photos, she is looking really smart with that new decking - something for people to look forward two when you see her out and about this coming season.

[BroadAmbition]

Yes, if I ever find time to get the Stbd side done, not to mention deck light pads and new cant rails

Griff

[grendel]

well as I got in to work early today I have taken a few minutes to import the scans into CAD and create the patterns. I thought I would give you an insight into the process, so here is the drawing as it currently is, on the decks i drew a 50mm grid, the cross lines were done by eye, so the scans have been imported into CAd and then aligned to the grid lines I created in CAD, then they were scaled to match the grid. I have outlined the bow section and adjusted the grid lines to match the pencil lines on the wood (this is important as I will be using those grid lines on the wood to measure for adjustments when I have fitted the deck and the toe rails etc.

The side decks have been aligned to the grid and scaled, and I am in the process here of adjusting the vertical grids to the pencil lines. this is where it will stop until lunch time when I will have some more time to work on this, real work is beckoning.

[grendel]

ok I was busy yesterday, so the drawing wasnt finished until this morning - here is the initial pattern, this will be modified to the shape of the cabin sides and toe rails, then the decking will be drawn on to this.

[grendel]

and as an example of the pattern that will be created and stuck to the deck, then varnished to seal it. compared to the photo that griff sent me for this area.

 

[ranworthbreeze]

Hello Peter,

Happy Birthday

Regards

Alan

[grendel]

I wondered when somebody would spot that, Yes its my Birthday, Thank you

(at work they knew because i bought cakes in).

[FairTmiddlin]

Pity Charlie can't just print out and stick the Dek king

Excuse Me Charlie poor cheesing of ropes there! may I say.

And also HAPPY BIRTHDAY PETE

[Maxwellian]

Happy Birthday Peter. 

[grendel]

I suspect that the ropes were perfectly cheesed before griff had to move them to lay the Dek king, and perfect again when he had finished.

[riyadhcrew]

Have a good one Peter.

[BroadAmbition]

I wondered when somebody would spot that, Yes its my Birthday, Thank you

Blimey - Nearly missed it, well,  technically I have as it gone past the witching hour.  Still better late than never, a day late and a dollar short as per the usual then Griff.

Happy birthday for yesterday Pete,

Griff

[grendel]

Ok time for controversy, on model #1 I used an epoxy system to seal the hull and waterproof the cracks between planks, although from the outside model #2 looks good - even after filling from the inside its obvious those cracks will need sealing. now I could just go the same way as I did on model #1, but that took a fair few applications and still had a few leaks that needed fixing.

going the traditional method and using a sealant was a definite no, as I'm not trying that on such a small scale, 

so I went searching, and found a solution that other model boaters use - a fiberglass cloth. this isnt as bad as it sounds, its used in conjunction with the epoxy to seal all the cracks, there are two weights I am considering, 25g/m2 and 50g/m2 this stiff looks like silk, but is a lot finer, when laid on the hull and epoxied, it just disappears into the epoxy, cover a wood planked hull and you still see the wood plank finish. so I have run a little test to see how easy it is to use and the result, here it is immediately after application on my test piece. you can still see where I wrote the weight on the plywood. originally silk would have been used with varnish, but I dont mind using the fiberglass and epoxy, as it will smooth out the hull surface and reinforce it from minor bumps and knocks too. plus at the end of the day it will disappear under the paint.

[BroadAmbition]

I think the 25g will do it nicely.

Below the waterline - hopefully early next month I should be able to get delivered to your hovel some underwater primer, anti foul and the emperor blue boot topping - all the same gear we use on 'B.A'   I have the sealed small tubs ready that will survive the postage system nicely.  I've not been down to 'B.A' since early November hence not getting this gear to you before now.

I hope to make a special road trip from Brundall on the 5th to wet shed to collect your gear before driving back home to Donny,  once back up here I can then get it posted off to you.

Griff

 

[grendel]

after complaints that my work bench was a bit cluttered (well it was) when I saw a set of drawers in liddles for cheap money, I got a set and set about tidying, once I had tidied I sanded down the fibreglass sample from this morning, then gave it another thin layer of the epoxy. to be honest I think either one will do the job, but I too am leaning towards the 25g.

[riyadhcrew]

Don't see the difference.

[grendel]

one weighs twice as much, so one will add about 25g to the model, and the other about 50g, but both will massively increase the strength.

[grendel]

Well I went with the 25g in the end, one side is done, its horrible stuff to cut, very sharp scissors are best.

[grendel]

And the second side receives its skin.

[JanetAnne]

Well that's the first epoxy sheath I have seen put on a wooden boat hull at the point of build rather than at the more desperate point of rot!