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Broad Ambition - The Model


grendel

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Test fitting of stringers etc in progress, the only way you can really find if all the frames fit. I see adjustments are required on at least 2 frames where the stringers sit just proud of the slots to keep the lines accurate, the adjustments will be made, then the frames used to mark out the frames for model 2, one frame is just low (high) at the hog so needs extending a few mm, another is just shy on the bottom stringers, but perfect on the next stringer out, and the hog this will be adjusted too between these.

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tonights work was re-making a frame , it was just a tad short to reach the hog, so it was re cut just a fraction bigger, there is one more frame near the front, this just needs to be a few mm wider to accommodate the curve of the upper timber, that will be tomorrows job. once all this tweaking is done I will be ready to mark out and cut the frames for hull 2.

I need to steam the timbers for the transom's this week end too. these will probably be the thickest timbers I need to bend. 

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Janet Anne  -  A quick question, I notice from the notches in the models aft most bulkhead that BA seems to have a chine, two stringers and then a separate beam shelf just above the upper stringer rather than utilising the upper stringer itself. Is she unique in this or was that a Powles trait? 

Without getting inboard of other Powles woody's I don't know is the honest answer.  Then again that wouldn't be conclusive either as R641 is the only full timber hull of her type in existence.  The remaining five Star Supreme's were Tupperware hull with timber topsides as were Star Magnas / Victors all made from the same mould taken from R641 which was of course the 'Plug'   The mould was sold and became known as the 'Bourne 40'  Sorry I can't be of more help with your question

Griff

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the hog is the solid keel bit along the bottom of the boat that everything is fixed to, stringers, the long thin horizontals down the length of the boat, chine - usually a sharp edge between the botton and sides of the boat, BA does not have one as she smoothly transitions between bottom and side with a nice curve - this makes it more difficult to build. Beam shelf, not sure myself, but I figure thats the thicker top stringer that delineates between side and deck.

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I can recommend purchasing a copy of the Boatbuilding Manual from Amazon, now in it's 40th edition. Although written in Americanese it does contain a whole host of wooden boat building techniques and explanations of terms used around the world. There are also detailed plans on on the construction of wooden boats.

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Beam shelf - I'm not sure either, have to look it up somewhere or t'other.

Where the deck meets the hull there is a heavy duty teak stringer running full length,  There is another near identical one inboard where the cabin sides meet the deck.  One of these could indeed be so called a 'Beam Shelf' I suppose.  The other stringers are as Grendel mentioned.  Then of course we have the ribs, hundreds of them all teak steamed into place, 90% of them are in one piece, that is to day they start at the top on the port side cut flush with the top hull plank (Behind the rubbing strips) then go all the way across to the top of the stbd side passing over and fastened to the top of the hog on their way.  There are about 8 or so on each side at the bow that are fastened and 'let' into the side of the hog.

I'll sort out some photo's later on

Griff

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Royal Tudor is made differently to the above, Doug will have a better idea than me, but instead of the beam shelf running from stem to stern, RT has individual 'shelf brackets' I suppose is the best way to describe them, that are bolted to the clamps at intervals. These brackets then support both the deck and cabin sides. Excuse using the back of an envelope as I didn't have a fag packet to hand!DSC_0279.JPG

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Ok, tonights work, started off marking out and recutting the other frame piece that needed tweaking, then (as its thicker wood) 10 minutes in the steamer, starting the bends to make the transom, this is 10mm timber, and the thickest I have had to bend so far, quite pleased with the results.

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JA, I do have a plan - in CAD, but after working from the plan I am finding that I am tweaking a little here a little there, to get a perfect fit, as you probably know, a curve that fits in CAD, may not be one the wood happily bends to. so as I work, new patterns for bulkheads will emerge, so the plans may well evolve and come together once the model is completed. 

but remember the first set of plans took me a couple of years, and the model may well take the same, though I may be able to simplify the build plans after building so to speak.

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Griff, I sincerely doubt that, I may seem to be progressing, but I am at the stage of testing the fit of parts, then it comes to bits again before getting glued up to look the same, then there are hundreds of ribs to bend up and fit, then we get to planks, and after that there is all the topsides. at the rate I am going 100 ribs could take 100 days. There is no way I will be rushing things or cutting corners, I am doing the same as you did with the old lady herself, If I need to remake a part 4 times to get it right, I will, in the knowledge that for the next hull it will be perfect.

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This morning was a nice drive to JawsOrca country - well to Chatham dockyard, to the two model shops they have there - one does boats, the other everything else, still a razor saw and blades bought in one, and the other had a couple of wooden ships wheels that looked about the right size - brasswork to be added, and a nice bright shiney brass prop (when I was looking online these were a - more expensive and b - in quite short supply (one shop had just the one) so I got this while I saw it.

so here's the comparison between real and model bits - though I have just spotted the 2 extra spokes on the model ones,

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