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grendel

Broad Ambition - The Model

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well I went to st Albans model show and picked up a bag of speakers to try, after several attempts I have found one with a good response, this will be the one that gets used. the camera really doesnt do the base notes - eg the steam whistle justice, it sounds a lot better in real life - there are more selections available on the sound card and you can use 16 sounds apart from the engine start run and stop, there are two channels of sound, at present I have one for the engine and one for the other sounds, I could run 2 engines and sounds too, but one engine would stop while the other sounds sounded.

Anyway these are the default sounds, I will be recording some sounds from Broad Ambition on the lads week (engine, bell, horn, Charlies joke and some helming orders). these will be edited and used to replace the default sounds

 

 

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so I am on the lads week and model #1 is accompanying me, Sunday we stopped at the Waveney River Centre for a few hours, and while some of the lads were fishing I had the model out for an hour or so I even ventured so bold as to take the model out on the river (well the bit of the river I could see while sitting on the front of the boat in the basin. the range of the radio gear was clearly more than I could see the model (or more than I could see which way the model was pointing.

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ooh, its a while since I updated this, truth be told its been a tad cold out in the workshop, and I have been a bit busy, as one of the next steps was a coat of paint on the hull, I need a decent outdoor temperature for that. 

That was until Charlie posted pictures of the new mast, ah I thought - a challenge, am I going to be able to reproduce that now. well after some playing around I figured a method and yes I can reproduce that, the weather has brightened and from single figures we are up to 14 degrees in the workshop today. I used a 3mm milling bit in a pillar drill as a router bit to cut the holes and make the rebate. the stalled progress has restarted.

as for the painting, yes that will have to wait, but I think I can find a few of the simpler jobs to keep me busy.

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ok I am doing some testing on lime before I do the final mast work, I have a dual axis vice that I can use for accurate feeding, and some small wood milling cutters, so here is one of my tests. I dont have a dedicated milling machine, but this is light work so the pillar drill should cope with the side loading on the chuck, I could go up to the bigger pillar drill if necessary.

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so Burmese teak isnt as kind as lime when milling (not such a close grain). but after several attempts I finally ended up with a result I was happy with, a few extras added and we have a mast. its been a few hours trying different things until I was happy.

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just made the mast bracketry, stainless steel. 2mm holes plus a 2mm pivot bolt. 0.8mm hole for locking pin and corresponding pin.

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well finally I am getting there, as before this part has had me stuck, I must have made it 4 times now and finally I am thinking its nearly right, angles have been carefully measured from the model and then transferred to the sander to sand the angles, then it was laying the part in situ and scribing the curve, then cutting the curve, next will come the chamfer to the side pieces.

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now I have tidied up a bit and added the chamfers, I am happy with the fit.

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with a disc sander with an adjustable surface, its easy to get the angles right - if you know them, which as I have a 3d template I do.

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Its just struck me - when I try something and it works, I get re-enthused to do more, when I have a failure, I tend to take a break and think about things which slows progress considerably. its only when I get something right that I proceed to the next point, hmm- also with the weather warming up, the workshop is more comfortable temperature wise.

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Sometimes I'm guilty of the same.  Not so much the weather warming up - Our conservatory has that 'K' glass double glazed all round with a double glazed solar glass roof so it is always warm in there.

What delays me is daylight or lack of it after 1800-ish.  By the time I get home it is dark and has been that way for months.  I need to be getting the mast final sanded, obviously I can't sand owt in conservatory so that means doing it outside - Garage is out of the question as not enough room in there for all sorts of reasons.  I just can't seem to muster enough enthusiasm to be sanding outside in the cold under artificial lighting.  There just may be a window of opportunity tomorrow between floor tiling and grouting - We will see

Griff

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more windscreen work, time to joint up the centre section, joints cut and fitted, then glued and clamped

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and out of the clamps with final shaping and trimming

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If it's any consolation - I didn't find it at all easy getting the angles correct on the full size version either.  The three base rails are out of a hardwood, rebated angled on all four sides with the bottom side being somewhat curved, oh and a rain channel.   The five window frames were cut out from one sheet of 25mm marine grade plywood, then stained / varnished prior to the glazing being fitted then polished aluminium borders.

Oh 'Eck - Just thought of something.  We have upgraded our three hatch borders down aft to polished s/steel as you know.  Maybe I should think of doing the same process to the saloon windows too - Gloom, more time money - Hope Robin doesn't see this and especially our Howard  :default_icon_eek:  Now see what you have done - Your fault entirely!

Griff

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another grotty day outside so a little time made for more work, fitting the screen hinges, so 0.8mm holes drilled through hinge, 0.7mm through wood, and 0.8mm stainless pins used as fixings, one side of the hinge needed filing down so it didnt overhang the wood.

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Today was spent working on one of the side sections of the screen,  this went perfectly until I chamfered the top rail, time to start again

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well that has remade that side frame. the third will have to wait for another day

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are my eyes deceiving me or is that well above 1;12 scale thickness

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Mike it has to be thick enough to attach a piano hinge to, and I still have to thin down the hinge flaps.

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could you not attach hinges with glue to a thin unit?

 

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well the bottom hinge of the middle section has to be fitted to the edges or it wont work correctly,  I cant fit them on the faces.

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In my mind I am thinking.... CAD and Print, the whole window system that is.

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An interesting point this, where it is not possible to have something to scale AND working. I would have stayed to scale and had the windscreen un-collapsible, but that's just the way I'd have gone with that choice.

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Ian, I did that, and got the patterns I am using for the angles for the wooden frames i am making, I cut them oversize then use a disc sander with an adjustable platform to sand to the required angles, with this depending on choice of sanding disc grit I can do really fine work, a 'coarse cut' for me on this is with 240 grit paper, I can go as fine as 800 grit for the final finish, but when getting the angles cut that takes too long, this way I can sand the angles along the edges to an accuracy of about 0.5 degrees, which gives a far better result.

As for the hinges, I have the smallest piano hinges made here, I can go slightly smaller in individual hinges, but they too are the smallest made - basically for dolls houses which are made in the same scale as the model (and still have the appearance the same size as normal door hinges).

As for not making them working and having a more scale appearance, that down to choice, for strength I cant go much thinner anyway and still have the model robust enough to withstand daily wear and tear, having the screen foldable gives it additional protection that a rigid screen would not have. I will try and post more step by step pictures when I do the third section to show you what I do to make a window.

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