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grendel

Broad Ambition - The Model

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right third section work today. lots of pictures. first the part is overlaid over the pattern, then the inner spacing set using the finished side, he lines of the part are added, and then the waste side marked. the faces of the joints are cut using the bandsaw (careful of your fingers here) and a razor saw used to cut the shoulders, some of these are slanted to match the inside profile of the frame, then the parts are glued and clamped, once the glue has set, the chamfers are sanded in with the sander set to the correct angle. the fit is checked. then the finished part is compared to the patterns and its opposite number.

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So today being a nice day, it was time to get into the workshop and process the windscreen further. Time to fit the hinges to the side pieces. hinges positioned, drilled through at 0.7mm, the hinge part opened out to 0.8mm, stainless steel pins fitted through and glued in place, finished product I am happy with.

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it is at this point I admit to messing up - yes I forgot that the sides slope in, so made the frame edges vertical on the outside, after realising my error I had to figure how to resolve this, I need to cut some wood from the outside of the frame, at an angle, so to keep the frame width constant, a sliver has to be added inside, tonight those slivers have been measured up, cut and sanded to shape, and then fitted.

its not a great deal, but its got to be right, next to cut the slope off(once the glue is dry

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tonight was the night to trim the windows, so rather than struggle the hinge pins were knocked out and the windows cut down and sanded.

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so its now the turn of the mudweight winch, a couple weeks back at the boot fair I had picked up some radio control bits, amongst which were a couple of small motors with gearboxes, I decided to print some winch drums and see how they went.

after that it was a case of testing,  on 6v one motor was making about 60 rpm, the other about 8rpm, after taking a couple of gears out of the slower gearbox that too was up to about 60 rpm. 

I do now need to make a spacer for the gearbox that replaces the two gears I have removed

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well you know I talked about those deck lights and how small they were at 1/12 scale, well after a long trip from china the led's have arrived, the wires are hair fine, the led's themselves are tiny. but stick them on a 3v supply and they shine out.

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Yes these are the new cree surface mount LEDs these are the same as they use in the new type filament look light bulbs. they do come in a smaller micro board mount one. I have seen 40 of then in a 1cm square

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some more work on the mast mount, as Griff has made a new one for Broad ambition, so too the model now needed a new one, out with the stainless steel, micro drill bits are the only things that drill this well, if I manage 2 holes before I break one, I consider I am doing well. so holes and slots are drilled, and then I dig through my bolts, some m1.6 x 12 bolts hold the stainless plates to the brass carrier, this will be fixed under the roof. the rest of the bolts are m2 x 16, so now I too have a sturdy mast support for the new style mast.

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its such a good fit, that so far I havent bothered with the vertical bolts to hold it to the roof. previous mast to compare.

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the external strips added to the roof.

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so to the deck, I had been thinking of printing it on paper and sticking it down, but today I had an idea, perhaps I could use pyrography to score the dark lines into the deck sheet, so some 1/32" ply was marked up, and then the dark lines were burnt in. some dark stain will get the colour correct, then it can be varnished.

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so trimmed to size and with a coat of teak stain and its starting to look good

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the toe rails will run around outside this decking, plus I have the stainless steel deck fittings to make too. but after thinking how I was going to do this for way too long I have finally bit the bullet and started the decks.

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joining the two deck sections with staggered joints, just fettling the joint

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perhaps I could use pyrography

I don't know how you do it - Come up with so many good ideas.  I've never even heard of pyrography let alone seen it used and to stunning effects too    :default_icon_bowdown:

Griff

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Charlie, its where you use something similar to a soldering iron to draw on wood, effectively burning the surface to imprint a pattern onto the wood. the tricky bit in this instance was using a metal straight edge effectively robbed some heat from the tip.

having tried printed paper I wanted to find a way of doing it in timber, I had thought of something similar to marquetry (using wood veneers for the dark lines and cutting my own planks from the teak stock) but this seemed to me that getting the planks thin enough with a good finish might just take a bit of tricky work, that and the black lines would have been so fine they might have been tricky to work.

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Today I was helping out at the elham valley railway museum, doing crafts, so it was pyrography, finishing off the second side of deck planking, awaiting delivery of more 1/32" ply to do the foredeck, I also spent a few hours assisting someone threading up a 4 shaft table loom, as its something I have done before.

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so after doing the stepped joint, and staining the wood with teak stain, here is the result on side 2

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Come to think I have used pyrography, before now on 'B.A' when we added another support bow for the wheelhouse canopy.  The original ones had been marked up in Roman numerals using sommat very hot, I did the same using a soldering iron to the extra bow.  I just never knew there was a name for it.

Way after then we have since altered / enhanced / replaced the lot of them.  Then I marked them up with a dremel I seem to remember

Griff

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any little gaps will be tightened up and disappear when this is glued down.

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next there is a section of the top rail at the corner of the stern that needs to be made, as this is on a curve it is easily made from laminated strips in a former, glued up, so here is where it goes, and heres the part clamped up in the former. after the glue is dried the taper will be planed in

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Peter, the top rubbing strip on the transom only goes as far as where the side decks are, not all the way across in a curve.  So on your model about an inch or so, it then stops on a curve.  The transom has a single piece of hardwood on the top curved to match the transom.  I'll see if I can find a photo or two

Griff

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yes Griff, thats the plan, I just needed to get the correct curve for the two pieces, one either side, with the teak rail in the middle.

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the curved piece has now been planed to a taper and cut into 2 pieces ready for offering up to get the cut angles correct.

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so tonights work was cutting the ral sections to size and fairing them in, some stainless sheet was also bent to form an angle, then trimmed down to size, trimming stainless steel leaves nasty sharp edges, so needless to say, I sliced my finger on it.

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