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Broad Ambition - The Model


grendel

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so several days since the last update, i have been busy, tidying the workshop, meanwhile paint was drying out, now stuck because the next part i wanted to do that could be done while paint was doing its thing on the hull of the model, suddenly became an issue where my 0.2mm stainless steel was too thick,  i have ordered more in 0.1mm .05mm and .02mm, but its a long delivery item, so today the model was back in the garden receiving another few coats of white to the hull. i am happy to report that the problem paint spots we had are now disappearing into the paint layers.

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so several days since the last update,

Really? - Hadn't noticed :default_icon_liar:

 

I am happy to report that the problem paint spots we had are now disappearing into the paint layers.

Grendel - That bit of news, welcome as it is, is no use to man nor beast whatsoever without the obligatory photo!  And well you know it :default_2gunsfiring_v1:

Griff

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still there is nothing like watching paint dry as they say, and theres not a lot to see when its all white, i reckon this coat needs another week drying then lightly flatting back again before getting a tad more paint - or as i have since found this stuff is not a paint at all its a coloured resin lacquer, which is why we had paint mismatch issues, as i tried to overspray when it was still curing (properly it has a full two week hardening time, but between coats of the same stuff it can manage as little as 5 minutes, so once this has all been finished the below waterline and boot topping will be left a good amount of time to allow this resin lacquer to properly harden, after which it should be good to go.

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after a bit of a rethink, i spent an hour this evening running down through the different grades of wet and dry paper, 400, 600, 800, 1500, much happier with how smooth the finish is on the one side i have done, tomorrow i will have a go at the other side.

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so continuing applications of paint, the hull is probably 0.5mm thicker now through paint, about a week ago i carefully sprayed up a board, this was specifically to test paint that would be going over the white, this will just be applied with a brush, so what do we have, well on the real boat there is antifoul in red and a blue boot topping, getting the exact colours wont be easy, i had throught to try a red oxide primer, that had reacted badly to the white paint, modelling acrylics are a possibility, however the red oxide primer i had tried was acrylic.

Actually these paints were my backup option, so after a lot of shaking to get the pigments mixed back into the paints, i got the two pots of paint that Charlie had supplied me last year out and ready for testing. these are exactly the correct colours as they are from the tins that were used the last time Broad Ambition came out of the water, it is actual antifoul and actual boot topping, so these have been painted on the paint that was sprayed onto the test board, to ensure there are no adverse reactions. how soon these are applied to the model is unknown at the moment, i will need to ascertain the water level to work out where the boot topping will need to be, but i may be able to work out the top line of the antifoul before that and get that applied.

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At last I can help out for a change.

You are correct of course that I supplied genuine anti-foul and boot topping as used on 'B.A' and it is fast drying too

Water level mark.  You remember model #1,  when you trialled it the blue boot topping was too low?  We also discussed that exactly the same thing happened with the full size version - which is an amazing occurrence and just goes to show how accurate your scale work is.

Anyroadup, we had to raise the top line of the boot topping next time we had her out of the water.  I would offer, have a look-see at model #1 then transfer the line measurement over to model #2 but add on 10mm to the top of the boot topping line - Bobs your Uncles brother, Fanny is your Aunt.  Simples :default_icon_e_smile:

Griff

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that will probably be where i end up Griff, if its too high i can always add ballast, but losing weight will always be a tricky option.

how many inches did you raise your boot topping Griff, 

to get the line i will measure at the bow and stern (and compare to the photographs) to get a front and rear position, then its just a matter of using a laser level to transfer the  line straight along the hull.

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how many inches did you raise your boot topping Griff, 

Now you're asking.  From memory I think about 50mm or two inches in real money

to get the line I will measure at the bow and stern (and compare to the photographs) to get a front and rear position, then its just a matter of using a laser level to transfer the  line straight along the hull.

We did the same, used a laser level to give us a red line then marked the line.  It was a fair amount of faffing about before I was happy with it

Griff

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I'm still trying to work out if it was quicker to make/build BA for real or the model

It was undoubtedly easier as everything was bigger

You think?  You haven't got to strip it down in the first place!

'It would have been easier / quicker to build a new one'

This  was often said by our restoration crew and also by many proper boat builders.  Reasoning being we had first to strip / clean / expose just what we had to work with and bringing issues to the fore so to be seen clearly.  Then sympathetically removing, reproducing and replacing, effectively doing the job twice, then on top of that were the numerous times, especially in the earlier years where we got it wrong or were just not happy with the results.  This resulted in doing it again.  Or 'Learn by do method'.

Then there were many jobs that took two or even three guys working all at the same time just to complete one issue.  One example was the top plank on the hull.  Due to many years of it having repaired (bodged) it had to be removed from both Port and Stbd sides in its entirety.  The man hours just to remove it and get the corroded mild steel screws out, in some cases the original screws that had bee cherry heated then plunged in oil. it took forever, only way was to chisel timber away then wind them out with vice grips and when they snapped off Arrgghh :default_pcwhack:   No such issues on the model like that.  Putting in new planks - Three guys, steaming the teak, then holding / clamping / fastening, some with gloves on to stop their hands getting blistered all at the same time whilst working against the clock before the teak when cold / hard.  BUT - So satisfying on completion.

Now compare that to fastening on a new plank onto new ribs on the model and that's just one example

It took our crew of about 25-ish lads on and off over the five n half years 8'500 man hours to restore her to a standard just to get her back in the water.  It won't be happening anytime soon again that's for sure

Griff

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Well today i was finally happy with the finish, so today the masking tape came off, then it was cleaning the sticky residue from the tape off the lovely varnished stern, this was achieved with a citrus oil cleaner that removed the sticky without affecting the varnish. next to clean up the rest of the model where the paint in the air has powdered down, sometimes a stiff brush can sort this out, but we will see.

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So here are some pictures, i have tested the overspray on the cabin sides and it is responding with a light application of 800 grade wet and dry, which is needed anyway before the final varnishing of the cabin sides, also getting the rudder and skeg back in place. tomorrow, as the last day of furlough i guess will be spent cleaning the paint and overspray up and getting the running gear back as it should be.

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