Jump to content

Waeco Cr50 Fridge Problem

Recommended Posts

I thought that I would share this in case anyone else is suffering the same problem.

It's an annoying fault with a simple remedy:-


Compressor starts up o.k. when the thermostat calls for cooling (and runs fine for a good while), but a few minutes before the temperature drops low enough for the thermostat to switch off, the compressor stops.

Then it starts again

Then it stops

Then it tries to start, fails and the fan runs for maybe 30 secs

Then it gives a thump as though the compressor is going to start (but nothing happens except for the resultant vibration rattling anything loose in our adjacent cooker)

Then it starts for 5 seconds and stops

I think you've got the picture now, but this goes on about 10 to 15 times in various combinations of the above until the brief bursts of compressor activity lowers the temperature enough for the thermostat to switch off

Observation: It's hard to sleep through all this, except during the rare occasions when the repeated surge actually takes out our fridge fuse


Change the thermostat - Job done


No, it's nothing to do with low power supply voltage.

It's high resistance across the thermostat switch contacts shortly before it's due to switch out. I have a theory that the thermostat starts to "slacken it's grip" when it's about to switch out and that's when the faulty contacts present a high resistance.


The compressor can be run at different speeds, set by adjusting the value of a resistor that is connected in series with the thermostat contacts.

The standard resistor is 1 Kohm, and it can be found on the little pcb that holds the green and red LED's.

The purpose of this is to INCREASE the speed of the compressor rotation by REDUCING the current in the control circuit.

Shorting the resistor out results in a compressor speed of 2000 RPM (which incidentally is incredibly quiet and would be good for night use), but the standard 1Kohm results in a compressor speed over 3000 RPM which is audible but not intrusive.

If you are really fussy about fridge noise, you could short out the resistor and fit a quieter fan (and I doubt that you could hear it at all during the night).








Edited by TeamElla
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too have a problem with my fridge. Some time ago I managed to blow a fuse and lost the electrics to the starboard side. I replaced the fuse but soon noticed that the fridge didn't work. I tested the power to the fridge, and it's there ok, but the unit is as dead as the proverbial. It does nothing at all. Any ideas?

Sorry to hijack your thread Ella but you just reminded me to get off my jacksie and ask for advice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Is yours a Waeco fridge and is it totally dead (with not even a light illuminated as you open the door)?

If so, you should first check whether the 12 volts is making it all the way to the Danfoss Electronic Unit on the back (Danfoss type no 101N0220 - probably).  The top 2 contacts are the 12 volt input (but they may have piggy back connectors on them, doubling up each terminal).

If power is there, there is a voltage regulator I/C on the outside of the electronic unit that could be faulty. Assuming that's o.k., you can bypass the thermostat by shorting terminals C and T together. This should cause the compressor to run continuously, otherwise either the electronic unit is faulty or another fault is preventing start up of the compressor.

If another fault is responsible, the red fault light inside the fridge will flash a code that is repeated every 4 seconds, to identify the fault:-

1 flash = low supply voltage

2 flashes = fan drawing too much current (disconnect fan to see if fridge then runs)

3 flashes = Motor start error

4 flashes = Motor cannot maintain minimum speed (1850 RPM)

5 flashes = Electronic unit thermal cutout operating


3 to 5 you can't fix yourself.

You can send the electronic unit to PenguinFrigo for testing  (look them up on google)

All the best,




Thought you'd be used to warm beer where you come from cheersbar





Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 30/09/2016 at 8:45 AM, MauriceMynah said:

Are there any fridge engineers out there?

Hi MM,

If your Isotherm is reasonably young, it too will have a Danfoss BD35F Compressor at it's heart (together with an associated 101N0210 or 101N0220 electronic controller), so the previous info will still be valid.

The only difference between the two controllers is an added metal shield to help prevent electromagneitic interference on the 101N0220 version. Otherwise they're identical.

I think that the Isothermfridgess don't have the fault LED fitted, but the terminals are there to attach your own for fault finding purposes (see the relevant drawing on the attached pdf).

Assuming it's not an older model and assuming the electronic unit turns out to be faulty, you can send it to Penguin Frigo for testing.

They can also offer advice on other problems.

Also, Peachments in Brundall may be able to give advice.

Relevant links:-










Edited by TeamElla
grammar corrected
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, BroadScot said:

Why are these small fridges sooooo expensive? Captive audience or pure greed! Or limited manufacture runs?


Hi Iain,

I guess a bit of all three, mention boat or recreational vehicle and the zero's start adding to the bill.

You have only got to look at 4 inch fans, mains versions from £12.00, 12 volt are from £50.00 with many being £100.00 for the more silent type.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, ranworthbreeze said:

Hi Iain,

I guess a bit of all three, mention boat or recreational vehicle and the zero's start adding to the bill.

You have only got to look at 4 inch fans, mains versions from £12.00, 12 volt are from £50.00 with many being £100.00 for the more silent type.



The fans I can understand, Alan, the motor windings are very technical. But fridges hmm, sorry, but that to me is a rip off !!! The dearest part of a fridge is the compressor unit, stats are cheap, I guess it boils down to what the customer is daft enough to pay!.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Thank you team Ella, your tip on shorting T & C got my beer cold, although all lights and control are still dead as a dodo. 

My fridge died after what I suspect was being powered by a poor battery that kept dropping below low voltage cutout and flickering, even under charge

Would replacing the voltage regulator I/C return power to control panel? 

Thanks again regardless, Spain in summer without cooling would have been lethal. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Sponsors

    Norfolk Broads Network is run by volunteers - You can help us run it by making a donation

  • Create New...

Important Information

For details of our Guidelines, please take a look at the Terms of Use here.