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Engine compartment heating


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I am considering fitting a tubular heater in my engine compartment but am seeking advice as to what size would be effective. It is not a very large compartment ( Elysian ) but am wondering if the smallest size 60w , would be large enough to be effective.

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I don't know what formula you would need to apply for volume to be heated /power requirements Colin (I expect David will be along soon ...) - but I can tell you that we use a 3ft/135 watt tube in the pretty big engine compartment of our Broom 35, and it works fine.

Bruce

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The water provides most of the heat you need as this will be 4 or 5 degrees warmer than the air temperature when ti dips.

Clanny has a pretty big engine bay and has a 180 watt tube heater installed but in the harsh weaather last year, when the marina at Reedham completely froze over for 3 days, the heater didn't just keep the engines warm but it also thawed the water for a good foot all the way round the boat.

Screwfix.co.uk is a great source of supply, think mine was about £40, you just need a thermostat with a frost setting to go with it.

Ian

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I have a 180 watt on Kiki and a secret weapon :naughty:

Get a plug Thermostat and set to the temperature you require it will then kick in only when the temperature drops below the setting (mine is set at 6 - Fresh Water starts to crystallise at 4c) it will kick out once it has taken the engine bay temperature above the setting. Safe and only using power when needed rather than on constantly.

post-79-136713602061_thumb.jpg

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I would have thought something a little larger to be belt and braces Colin as I've always been well served by the "one size up" maxim. It is worth remembering that a 100w one should use no more power than a 60w and I know that sounds a bit daft, but if you think about it what you require is X therms to raise the ambient to Y, it matters not if that is achieved by say a 60w for one hour or a 100w for 45 minutes both using aboul the same amount of electrickery. Just make sure it has a good frost stat. I have to confess that I have never used one though; I prefer to introduce antifreeze into the raw water side and drain all the potable water down. Both have their merits but I always felt that the antifreeze which is also a corrosion inhibiter and helps keep the tube stack in the heat exchanger a bit cleaner. I would have thought a formula inapropriate for calculating this as there are too many variables like differing insulative qualities of each engine bay just as an example.

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Tube heater 180w, Screwfix.com £24, Perrys magic plug £22 ebay. all in for less than £50.

Remember it only works with electric though, if your supply trips or goes out it won't work. Davids method of proper winterising doesn't stop if the shore power goes off

Ian

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If you go for a permanent fixed stat like this one (£7.50 screwfix) it will be ready even if it turns cold unexpectedly. The minimum setting is 5c and you can turn it up to check it works anytime or just to add a little warmth to the engine bay whilst working on the engines :grin: If you do go for the plug in type use an extension before the stat if your plug socket is not in or near your engine bay. I have two 2ft tubes at either end of the engine bay or you could just leave a 60watt light bulb on down there as it will do the same job.

Jonathanpost-442-136713602473_thumb.jpg

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