Going Back In Time On Tobago 3

[Broads01]

I'll start by giving you the background to my title. In August 1986 I had, at the age of 15, what I've always considered to be my second happiest Broads Holiday ever, second only to my first holiday 5 years earlier. I was with my mum, dad and younger sister aboard "Whispering Teal" from Mistral Craft, Loddon (it became Richardsons' Norfolk Gem a year later). My mum was on that trip and, for various reasons too numerous to explain here, hasn't been to the Broads since - until today. I write this at the Oaklands Hotel in Thorpe, my Mum in the room next door to me and my daughter Natalia next to her. Although Natalia has been with me many times my Mum hasn't been with us but tomorrow we pick up Tobago 3 from Richardsons for 4 nights and she'll be boating again at last. 

Why do we need such a big boat for 3 of us? Originally my son was to join us but sadly he's unable to do so. On Wednesday my sister and my young niece and nephew are due to join us. My sister also last came to the Broads on the same trip 31 years ago. She's told me my 6 year old nephew is "beyond excited". 

All's gone to plan today. I left home in Cardiff at 8am, picked up Natalia and my Mum as planned and we were checking in at the Oaklands just after 3pm. A few months back I got a really good deal on Booking.com a few months back and we're here for a measly £41 per room including breakfast. The rooms are lovely for that price, looking like they should have cost much more. Later I drove us to Ranworth and what a spot to start our Broads visit proper. We walked to the church and climbed the tower - how can you not? This evening my plan was to try The Buck but I discovered they don't serve food on Sunday nights. We ended up with the carvery at the Town House and it was good value. 

[ChrisB]

It sounds like you have had a good start. I hope you all have a wonderful holiday.

[Broads01]

All went to plan today. We enjoyed a leisurely hotel breakfast and then set off towards Stalham. There was plenty of time for a stop at Wroxham on the way. We had a wander and a coffee in the sunshine then off to Stalham for the obligatory Tesco visit. We checked in at Richardsons around 1230 but alas the boat wasn't to be ready until 230. I was itching to get aboard but we had to make do with sitting about in the sun for a while longer, watching boats come and go. It's a tough life. It gave me time to say hello to Rob who used to be at the Acle base and who I've got to know a little over the years. We were eventually allowed to board around 245 then unpacked and a quick handover. We set off down river at a sedate pace. My mum was really enjoying being back on board after so many years. Richardsons had been it's usual busy self but I was surprised there wasn't more river traffic about. There were 3 or 4 mooring spaces remaining at How Hill and various wild mooring spots to be had. However we realised we'd forgotten to buy a couple of things from Tesco and so we continued to Ludham Bridge to visit the shop. We arrived at 520 and moored without problem, albeit a major downstream traffic hold up happened a short time afterwards. We opted to stay the night and all peaceful so far.  

[Broads01]

Ludham Bridge in full holiday mode

[SwanR]

I do enjoy watching the comings and goings at Ludham Bridge. Have a great time afloat.

[Wyndham]

3 hours ago, Broads01 said:

Ludham Bridge in full holiday mode

Oh No!!!! That picture could start a serious exchange of views...

I'm so glad I'm not a saily and needing water

[Broads01]

Tuesday 22 August

The weather was kind to us again as we set off and turned right at the bottom of the Ant. We enjoyed a gentle chug along the Bure, through Horning and a detour on to Hoveton Little Broad. I think Hoveton Little is an underrated spot and it's a quiet back water compared to the busy Bure. We didn't stop there but opted to carry on to Salhouse instead. We moored on the NBN meet stretch which I enjoyed back in May. There were plenty of boats about of course and yet Salhouse has a unique feel in my view. We walked along the moorings and up the path as far as the car park. It's some time since I've done so and I'd forgotten how far it was. After lunch aboard, I convinced my crew without needing any persuasion we should try our luck with the Wroxham bridge pilot. The Bure approaching Wroxham was its usual manic self, with day boat swarms comprising the majority of the traffic. We squeezed in to a mooring at Norfolk Broads Direct and I phoned the pilot. "There's only 6 foot 8 at the moment, call me back in hour". 

To be continued... 

[Broads01]

I phoned the pilot again at the designated time: "It's still 6 foot 8, you might be lucky at 9 in the morning". He also confirmed my assumption I'd have to wait a further day to return. I thanked him for his help and took my cue to turn back down river. No Coltishall for us on this occasion but Natalia and I weren't  too downhearted given we'd made it up there last October on Soprano and mum didn't mind where we went. We set off back through the day boat swarms - it was now just past 4pm and they were all rushing back to base. The river calmed considerably however once we were past Salhouse. I think a boat had just left Horning Staithe and we could have squeezed in there for the night but we opted for the quiet option of Cockshoot. Bizarrely as we arrived around 5-30pm the moorings were full on the right but completely empty on the left. As I approached I was looking for "mooring closed" signs but thankfully there were none, hence we had a lovely spot on the outside end of the dyke. The obligatory walk to the bird hide at Cockshoot Broad followed with the usual almost complete absence of wildlife visible. We were able to spot a lone duck! 

[Broads01]

I remember falling in love with Cockshoot way back in 1983, not long after it was first restored I think. When I visited in May I was unsure the work done there had been right but having returned now I still think it's a great spot. 

[SwanR]

One of our favourite places as well. The first time you see Cockshoot Broad, when you've no idea what's behind the shutters in the hide, is absolutely magical.

[Broads01]

You're right Jean. Although I joked about the lack of wildlife, what a peaceful oasis it is at the Broad. 

Wednesday 23rd August

We set off bright and early for Potter Heigham where I'd arranged to meet my sister Clare and my niece and nephew, Ashleigh aged 9 and Seth aged 6. I've noticed the Thurne seems to be the quietest of the three northern rivers in terms of moving traffic. We turned in to Herbert Woods basin and picked a spot. Is it me or is Potter Heigham windier than other places? Tobago is a big old bus and its 44 foot length means any stern on mooring when it's not 100% straight stands out some way. The combination of wind and the weight of the boat meant we needed a few minutes to straighten the mooring. Our new crew arrived as arranged, the children excited with life jackets already on, Clare having left her car at Richardsons and then transferred by taxi. Tobago has one of those small single cabins I call a "cupboard cabin" and yet Seth thought it was the best place to sleep ever. Having showed them aboard we set off down river and headed for Womack. Around 12:30pm there wasn't a single mooring space available at the Staithe, the island or the BA moorings. I suggested a stop at Thurne Mill instead and thankfully there was plenty of space there, albeit we were caught out by insufficient mooring rings on the pub side. We didn't visit The Lion in this occasion and in hindsight I wish I'd gone for a look inside because I've no doubt it's significantly improved since I last visited when the previous landlord was there. We had a table booked for later at the Acle Bridge Inn but before that there was time for a chug to South Walsham Broad. On the inner Broad well away from other boats I gave Ashleigh and Seth a turn at the wheel. They especially liked turning the boat around, just as my own children did when they were younger in the same place. Then it was time to head for Acle. Once past Thurne Mouth the clouds looked threatening for a time and I thought Natalia and I would have to close the sliding roof mid-stream (the sliding roof on Tobago requires a monumental team effort to raise) but thankfully we arrived at Acle still in the open air. Luckily at Acle there's space upstream of the moorings to use rhond anchors because when we arrived at 4-15pm all the main bankside moorings were taken. The meal and service at the Bridge was, as always, excellent. 

[Broads01]

[Broads01]

Thursday 24th August

Our last full day dawned bright and sunny yet again, I can't believe how good the weather's been this week. I was in France a month ago and the weather was rubbish in comparison. We took the opportunity to get water at Bridgecraft just after setting off. As it turned out that proved a very useful decision because, as I suspected would happen, water points passed later in the day were occupied. We thought we'd try our luck at Ranworth Staithe. We arrived there around 10am by which time I thought some of the overnighters would have left and there might be a space or two. No such luck - no spaces and no less than three boats hovering for a space. We turned round and headed back to St Benets instead. I thought for a moment we couldn't moor there either but were fortunate to time our arrival just as a boat was leaving. We enjoyed a walk to the Abbey. I do like the slightly elevated view of the river from where the crucifix is. It's also one of the places you can spot the seemingly strange occurrence of sailing boats moving through fields in the distance, in this case on the Ant lower reaches. We continued as we wanted to visit the shop at Ludham Bridge. It was only midday but all the moorings there were taken, including the yacht demasting ones which were taken by sailing boats bearing a striking resemblance to motor Cruisers. No shop stop for us then. Given that Acle Bridge stores is closed and Ranworth and Ludham Bridge were no go it's a good job we needed nothing urgent. We particularly wanted to stop at How Hill but arriving there I initially decided the only space available was too short for us. However I quickly realised we would just fit and it was a case of back up and squeeze in because it was now or never. The space was on the narrow part of the river at the upstream end and in a rush I didn't reverse far enough away from it to approach at the right angle. Added to that the wind took us in to the reeds on the opposite bank and I was in a muddle for a moment, holding up a queue of traffic in both directions. We were fortunate to receive assistance from the crews of the boats either side who helped haul us in with a couple of feet gap at each end of the boat. 

We made use of Tobago's ample rear deck space to eat in the sunshine and then set off for a short walk. There were two wherries moored, Hathor and Ardea. Hathor was open for viewing and the restoration work completed in 2015 is an impressive sight. Natalia excepting the crew hadn't ever visited the cottage before and so took the opportunity. It was then back to the boat and time for a meander back to Stalham via an indirect a route, namely Neatishead and Wayford Bridge. By the time we reached Lime Kiln Dyke at 3pm I knew the last moorings at Neatishead would have long gone but I wanted the crew to enjoy the chug along there (which they did). On the dyke a lady on a passing hire boat tried to encourage us to turn around prematurely as she seemed to think there was a big queue of boats waiting to turn at the Staithe. I knew the easiest place to turn is the turning area beyond the Staithe and in reality there was no queue and I was able to turn with no issues. We returned to Barton Broad where there was a fun game of "Keep clear of the sailing boats" to be had. All seemed keen, sensible types, I was just anxious to ensure I didn't accidentally cut across anyone. 

To be continued... 

[Broads01]

When we reached the top of Barton Broad, I took us up the left fork around Barton Turf and the Paddy's Lane moorings. This was a favourite mini detour my late dad loved doing and he was very much in my mind as we passed there. By strange coincidence, the boat we first holidayed on in 1981 is clearly visible as you pass the Cox's boatyard moorings. 

As we approached Wayford Bridge, Natalia was at the helm and suddenly exclaimed  "There's an otter!". The crew on the dayboat ahead were pointing as if they'd seen it as well. Unfortunately Natalia was the only one of us to see it. I didn't fancy continuing to Dilham and trying to turn a 44 foot boat either at the (inevitably occupied) Staithe or before it so we turned at Wayford Bridge to return to Richardsons. I like the mooring immediately on the left as you pass the Richardsons sign because unlike the moorings in the main quays it doesn't feel like you're in a boatyard. Fortunately there was plenty of room there. We said goodbye to Clare, Ashleigh and Seth who set off home to Sussex to beat the Bank Holiday rush whilst the 3 of us remaining went for dinner at The Swan. The service was very good there and the food whilst not especially memorable was certainly good value. We returned to the boat and saw a loveky sunset befitting of our last evening. 

[Broads01]

[Wyndham]

Lovely sunset photo. Enjoyed reading, Thanks

OOOOH Lime Kiln Dyke, don't go down there, you'll never turn and there's nothing there anyway, no shop, no pub, waste of time.

[deebee29]

Great read Simon, really got me in the holiday mood now.

I'm in the endless days of two weeks to go.

Why are there always extra hours added to each day in the last two weeks before you go?

I'm sure it's deducted from the time you are on the boat  

[SwanR]

Great holiday tale and lovely photos too. Certainly sounds as if the moorings were all very busy. I haven't ever been in August but June and September on the northern Broads have been bad enough. March, May and October have been great for experiencing the rivers when it's a lot less crowded.

[Broads01]

Thanks all for your kind comments. It's 4 years since I've visited on August and it's definitely got harder to find mooring spaces since I last visited. I visited in 3 consecutive Augusts 2011-13 and I can't ever remember St Benets, Ludham Bridge and How Hill all being full around midday and Acle being full at 4pm.Having said that, there's luck of the draw involved - when we arrived at Ranworth by car at 4-15pm last Sunday there were two spaces and few moving boats. Passing Horning Staithe 5pm Tuesday we could have moored and we could have moored at How Hill 4-45pm Monday. 

[Broads01]

Friday 25th August

We chugged around the corner to Swan Quay and returned the boat in good time. I like the fact when you return the boat at Richardsons the staff always make a point of asking if there have been any issues with the boat. This time I only had a couple of minor niggles to report (a sticky sliding roof and a loose door hinge) but it all helps to make things smoother for the subsequent hirers. We'd only used £45 fuel which I thought was pretty good for a 4 night break with a fair amount of cruising time. 

So another enjoyable trip came to an end. Mum especially enjoyed and it makes me regret not inviting her before. I've already invited her for next year. 

[Gracie]

Thank you Simon, so enjoyed the write up and photos and how nice your Mum enjoyed it after all those years

We are hoping for a big family get together on the Broads next year and thinking of hiring one of the Tobago's, have a need to hire one and scratch that itch lol

I think Dave's going to the Broads soon, not that he's mentioned it much

Grace

 

[Broads01]

Thanks Grace. You won't go far wrong with a Tobago. I'll be writing a review for the hire boat section.