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Soltron - Works for us.

Back when we did the restoration thing to 'B.A' we installed a brand new s/steel diesel tank only we modified it to in-cooperate a sump with a drain valve facility. There followed new fuel lines, water separator and of course a brand new Beta Marine.  All was to the good then.  We made it a 'Rule' to always put 'B.A' away in the wet shed after use with topped up diesel tank to minimise the condensation thing.

A few years on it dawned on me that no matter how good we were with keeping her diesel tank topped up, we could not control the cleanliness or quality of fuel we purchased at various boatyards.  Time for a bit of a rethink.  I did some research around the bazaars and online over on the t'other side in them days.  I also read that a boater had a tired BMC that was not the easiest to start especially if the wx was proper cold and used to smoke a lot on initial start up and would take a fair while for the exhaust to become clear.  He commenced with regular dosages of Soltron after months of running he reported back that starting became a breeze no matter how cold with a clear exhaust

Basically there are two types of additive to keep the dreaded diesel bug at bay.  One is the filter system similar to a product added to home brew that sits on top of the diesel in the tank then filters down taking all contaminations with it to sit at the bottom of the tank.   I didn't like the idea of this method at all as all that would have done is built up a level of crud at the bottom of the tank, eventually to such a level that the pick up pipe would have been sucking it up and into the filters

The other system is a product that breaks down any contaminations at a molecular level including the diesel itself which has an added side benefit which I will explain later.  This method means that any diesel bug / water / crud then passes through the filters and is burnt off during normal combustion procedure and no crud sitting in the bottom of the diesel tank.  Soltron is such a product (There are other makes of similar products available of course)

Every two years during our bi-annual maintenance regime, we get under the tank to the drain, usually I cop for this task as it is somewhat awkward, open the drain valve and drain off any crud until it runs clear.  The biggest volume of crud I have ever drained out is no more than half an egg cup full that from a 35 gallon tank or 157-ish litres

The initial application is a 'Shock' treatment which is around 3ml per 10 x Ltrs thereafter everytime one tops up with diesel and I do mean everytime, one should add 1ml per 10 x Ltrs so, 100Ltrs = 10ml Soltron.

Why Soltron? - No reason over other products other the result of my research really.

That added benefit - Soltron also of course breaks down the diesel itself at a molecular level too.  This has the added side benefit of making the diesel burn cleaner and more efficiently.  If it was added to a road vehicle (And a lot of folk do) it increases mpg.  In marine use it increases the efficiency giving more hours per Ltr, it also of course aids combustion with onboard warm air diesel fired system like our onboard Mikuni heater.

Whichever product you decide on stick with it.  If you are a 'Gung Ho' type and risk not adding any additive then my advice is to always top up your onboard diesel tank after use to keep down the risk of condensation thereby water contamination and remember today's diesel has less sulphur in it, the diesel bug hates sulphur so another reason to go with an additive

The choice is yours, I have to say right now I am no expert and do not take my word as gospel but it does work for us.  'B.A's diesel system is sparkly clean and her diesel burn is very clean with no smoking from her exhaust

Hope this helps,

Griff

P.S  -  Another product one should consider to use is 'ZX1' - Google it.  I swear by the stuff but that is a topic for another thread

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I got the diesel bug some years ago due to accumulated condensation in the tank. I now dose with soltron. But to clean the tank then I built my own fuel cleaner.

A large bore copper pipe that reaches to the bottom of the tank, 

Rubber hose to demi-john with exit pipe  higher to allow water to accumulate in the bottom.

To fuel pump.

To filter with its own glass bowl and drain. The rubber hose back into the tank.

The above is all mounted on a wooden stand.

The first time I took a lot of water from the tank, that season every time I went to the boat for maintenance, I ran the cleaner.

Since then I run the cleaner each time I've de-winterized the boat.

 

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I have been considering training and buying the equipment to add a mobile tank cleaning service to the list of things MBA Marine can do.  Trouble is there are filtration systems and there are the dogs dooda's of filtration, polishing and tank cleaning equipment.  If I am to do it I want the dogs dooda's set up, but right now I sunk everything into dayboats (money and all spare time), Im looking quite a few thousand pound of investment.

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9 hours ago, BroadAmbition said:

Soltron - Works for us.

Back when we did the restoration thing to 'B.A' we installed a brand new s/steel diesel tank only we modified it to in-cooperate a sump with a drain valve facility. There followed new fuel lines, water separator and of course a brand new Beta Marine.  All was to the good then.  We made it a 'Rule' to always put 'B.A' away in the wet shed after use with topped up diesel tank to minimise the condensation thing.

A few years on it dawned on me that no matter how good we were with keeping her diesel tank topped up, we could not control the cleanliness or quality of fuel we purchased at various boatyards.  Time for a bit of a rethink.  I did some research around the bazaars and online over on the t'other side in them days.  I also read that a boater had a tired BMC that was not the easiest to start especially if the wx was proper cold and used to smoke a lot on initial start up and would take a fair while for the exhaust to become clear.  He commenced with regular dosages of Soltron after months of running he reported back that starting became a breeze no matter how cold with a clear exhaust

Basically there are two types of additive to keep the dreaded diesel bug at bay.  One is the filter system similar to a product added to home brew that sits on top of the diesel in the tank then filters down taking all contaminations with it to sit at the bottom of the tank.   I didn't like the idea of this method at all as all that would have done is built up a level of crud at the bottom of the tank, eventually to such a level that the pick up pipe would have been sucking it up and into the filters

The other system is a product that breaks down any contaminations at a molecular level including the diesel itself which has an added side benefit which I will explain later.  This method means that any diesel bug / water / crud then passes through the filters and is burnt off during normal combustion procedure and no crud sitting in the bottom of the diesel tank.  Soltron is such a product (There are other makes of similar products available of course)

Every two years during our bi-annual maintenance regime, we get under the tank to the drain, usually I cop for this task as it is somewhat awkward, open the drain valve and drain off any crud until it runs clear.  The biggest volume of crud I have ever drained out is no more than half an egg cup full that from a 35 gallon tank or 157-ish litres

The initial application is a 'Shock' treatment which is around 3ml per 10 x Ltrs thereafter everytime one tops up with diesel and I do mean everytime, one should add 1ml per 10 x Ltrs so, 100Ltrs = 10ml Soltron.

Why Soltron? - No reason over other products other the result of my research really.

That added benefit - Soltron also of course breaks down the diesel itself at a molecular level too.  This has the added side benefit of making the diesel burn cleaner and more efficiently.  If it was added to a road vehicle (And a lot of folk do) it increases mpg.  In marine use it increases the efficiency giving more hours per Ltr, it also of course aids combustion with onboard warm air diesel fired system like our onboard Mikuni heater.

Whichever product you decide on stick with it.  If you are a 'Gung Ho' type and risk not adding any additive then my advice is to always top up your onboard diesel tank after use to keep down the risk of condensation thereby water contamination and remember today's diesel has less sulphur in it, the diesel bug hates sulphur so another reason to go with an additive

The choice is yours, I have to say right now I am no expert and do not take my word as gospel but it does work for us.  'B.A's diesel system is sparkly clean and her diesel burn is very clean with no smoking from her exhaust

Hope this helps,

Griff

P.S  -  Another product one should consider to use is 'ZX1' - Google it.  I swear by the stuff but that is a topic for another thread

This may be of some interest

.Changes-Spec-NR-Gas-Oil-261110.pdf

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We seem to be bucking the trend but we have always used Fuel Set which was a PBO best buy (the report is on their website). Its a dispersant rather than a biocide and although not so well know in this county it is used a lot in America. The bottle is cleverly designed with a built in measure making it very easy to use.

 

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I think whichever product you buy, they all come with the built in measure / dispenser thing.

I have just received another  Litre of Biocide that Robin has ordered for Independence.  The shock treatment dose on 2'400 litres has left him with 280ml from the first litre received, not enough left there to maintain normal dosage levels for the Plymouth to Brundall trip as we re-fuel

Griff

 

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Please, some advice:

My tanks are full, should I treat the fuel now and leave it without any agitation till next time I go out..... could be some weeks, i.e. just pour the additive down the filler tube .

Or, wait till I next go out and treat immediately beforehand so the additive and fuel have some chance to mix? (Not that the Yare is that rough these days)   

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Get it in asap, it will mix itsen quite nicely whether you are underway or not and start doing it's thing.  Then run through the pipes and filters next time you start up.  Yes straight into the filler tube, initial dose 'Shock Treatment' which is a stronger dilution, thereafter just the normal maintenance levels

Griff

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