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Trixie (Rascal's Fleet)


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Just back from a fleeting visit to the Broads. I travelled up Friday morning and had some things to fix and investigate onboard. Firstly I needed to remove the heater controller and re-wire the new one and I am pleased to say I now have properly functioning heating which is handy it was a broken controller and not a costly repair to the main unit.

Next up I got to trying to find the issue with the batteries and charging system, I thought initially I had found two issues: The first being that at rest the batteries (which have been sat a week not on charge) were all reading 12.6v. I had expected when I started the engine that these would then get well over 13v - but only got up to 12.9v. This turned out to be a read hearing as later after cruising to Ludham Bridge with the engine running at a faster tickover they were reading 13.96v. So it seems my Alternator is doing what it ought but there is no isolator/regulator to manage the amperage to which bank needs charging or reduce it as the batteries reach their full state of charge. This is something I am now getting.

However, what I can't fathom is why I am only getting just a tad over 10v at the distribution panel when the engine is running, but when on shore powered charger 12v - despite the battery charger running at 14.6v. I thought it may be a faulty volt meter but clearly it is not. My forward steaming light and anchor light which worked last week, no longer do.  You can see where this is headed, somewhere I have some wiring gremlins - what joys.

Anyway, the other news was a lot of work being done just inside the far end of the Wet Shed and masses of work outside - trees being felled, excavators doing all sorts. It will be interesting to see what is what in the fullness of time, or if it is just a tidy up.

I wanted to lower the canopy in the peace of the Wet Shed and figure out how best I may do it in future if alone. The canopy is almost impossible to get back up single handed, since it naturally wants to fall down backwards, and only the fasteners on the windscreen keep it up. With nobody to hold the hoops up trying to get a couple of fasteners on to support the canopy single handed is a real effort. During me trying to figure things out I had stepped on some of the canopy and heard a tearing sound. I felt terrible initially, what on earth had I done? I decided to not look too much into it an pretend nothing had happened and head out onto the river.

I arrived at Ludham Bridge, less than 8ft clearance just as well the canopy was down already, but just as I approached it I decided nope - stay here tonight and go to the Dog Inn - as it turned out a great move. I turned the boat and got the very end mooring on the right hand side. I then spent over half an hour struggling with the canopy. It turned out I had ripped a small section of stitching, nothing too bad about 3 inches - but as i held it the stitching just began to run, more and more just was falling apart and all of a sudden i had an entire upper side of the canopy glazing now un-stitched and flapping in the wind! I began to inspect the rest and was shocked to find masses of stitching already gone, or coming free even on areas that are not under any tension.

I just thought, why do I not have any luck with boats? I mean the odd thing here and there, sure but this was not only niggles it was now bigger items to sort and now an entire canopy that was quite literally coming apart at the seams. I had a bit of a 'rant' and posted of a video over on our Facebook Group. I then decided the best thing was to head to the pub, which I duly did. This was an excellent idea as the food is very nice - and the IPA was too. Just as I was finishing Gary and Vicky turn up friends from the Wet Shed, and so we sat and caught up and I got a lift back to the bridge which was very handy too. Back on the boat I was now mellow and with some smooth Jazz, a coffee and a Jammie Dodger life was all once more ok.

I was woken about 1:00am when what I thought was some kind of jet engine was going, it turned out that it was the boat in front of me un-silenced heater outlet - blimey what a roar but either they turned it off or their domestic batteries gave out, but about an hour later peace was restored. I fancied a bit of a lay in this morning but just gone 7:00am and the boat traffic passing up and down river was already underway wash from passing boats and their engines meant me trying to sleep was not on the cards.

I checked my messages and found one of the Directors of Bailey & Stone (upholstery and canopy makers) had reached out to me after reading my Facebook post and watching the video. He could turn around a new canopy if I wanted it, in Sunbrella with some fancy UV resistant ultra tough stitching all to be done in under two weeks. The price he had given was very enticing too. I thought about it, and got back to him initially putting him off but as the morning passed and I thought some more and looked at the current canopy I called him up and accepted - only I wanted it in Burgundy.  He agreed, and so that was the canopy woes sorted in a jiffy.

I went for a little potter up to How Hill and back to re-charge the batteries and give me hot water - then it was time to get ready and have a snack and coffee before I headed to George at Ludham Bridge. He is such a down to earth chap, but he certainly knows his stuff. We went over the list of things he had already quoted for, but I then effectively doubled it with more items me being worried if I was asking too much of him considering he has other boats in the yard to work on but he assured me what I was wanting was very doable within the time frame I had (before the Spring NBN meet).

I am now going to have the boat rather transformed with new red, hard coastal anti-fouling (which works really well on the Broads - we used it on Broad Ambition) and that will have a nice burgundy boot line. The current blue stripe on the superstructure will likewise go and be replaced with a burgundy version, all new fenders will be be got, the aerial for the TV removed, spot lamp relocated. This will clean the lines considerable and set the boat apart from others of the same design. The engine is being worked on, the charging system too. New sea cocks, auto greaser for the stern gland, new 'clear' weed strainer, work on the swim platform, updating navigation lights to LED, new headlining and lighting system - switched recessed downlighters and this evening I have got Bailey & Stone to get some sample fabrics for the upholstery sent to me and they will measure and quote to update the seating. There is a bunch more to do but I have not got my list to hand right now, but some exciting times ahead.

Heater controller renewal:

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Cosy at night, but rather busy and 1990's upholstery

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The 'before' and last time she will be blue:

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Robin regarding your alternator I'm not convinced at all the voltage should be more than that especially at start up that's when they out out maximum power and should be 14.2 V minimum   without photos I'm guessing there is no split charging relay , mine runs a simple heavy duty ( 180amp) relay that's signaled by the charge waning light , ie as soon as the alternator starts to charge it sends the output to both banks  , no fancy high teck box of tricks just an electronic switch , cheap to source if it ever breaks( which they don't)  , 100% reliable , no voltage/amps loss , its supply's 2 banks of battery's 170amp ( starter) 660amp ( domestic) no over charging of either bank and this is with a alternator controller set at maximum ( lead acid setting) 14.8 volts ,  all I can say is it works n has done day in day out for the last 5 yrs with the only exception being replacing the regulator in the alternator as its one unit and the brush's were worn out , I also elected to change the diode plate at the same time , total cost £16 not bad for 5 hard graft day in day out .

Distribution board to me you have some bad cabling there no way should your volts be so low but check it with a multi meter as It could be the Meter itself , a check across the 2 terminals of the meter will prove if its lying or not .

The fact that you have learned that dropping a canopy single handed is difficult is good  now where would you do that at wroxham to transit the bridge coming from sat ranworth ? No where to moor at all is the problem except miles back n if its raining that's hardly convenient , apologies its just a pet hate the lack of facilities for this in wroxham :44_frowning2:.

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Each boat seems to be a bit different on this one. St Christopher was a doddle to do single handed and under way, Nyx a tad harder but the method was the same on both. get a steady course (this applies to dropping and/or raising)

My helm is port side so I remove the starboard side panel first, always keeping a close eye on where the boat is going and leaving the panel if course correction is needed. Undo the lower fixings first so if necessary the panel can 'hang'  safely from the canopy for a few seconds while any course adjustments are made. Carefully roll (do not fold) the side panel. Repeat with port side panel.

Next, roll up the stern flap. This may take several attempts as should you need to leave it, it will unroll itself and you start from scratch each time.

At this point I am assuming that you will be able to reach the windscreen studs from inside the cockpit. If not then all this procedure is irrelevant !!!

Again, check your course is straight and steady. Undo the canopy studs helmside first up to, but not including the two central studs. the canopy will now hang down helmside inside the cockpit. Check and correct your course. Now undo the studs the other side, again up to but not including the centre two. Check and correct course.

Holding on to the leading edge of the canopy and taking the strain, undo the central studs. you now have the weight of the canopy and hoops. walk it back to stern seat and leave it there, untidy if you like, it really doesn't matter.

Check and correct course. Lower Windscreen, again assuming it can be done from inside the cockpit. If time permits, tidy canopy on back seat and hey presto, job done single handed.

With practice one can get pretty quick at doing this, but try not to leave it to the last minute as you never know what might delay you. St Christopher was a doddle as it held a course really well, Nyx doesn't meaning many corrections in the process. I once managed to brew up a cup of tea on St Christopher whilst going from Wroxham to Coltishall. Not the straightest bit of river!.

Now, I know that there will be some who say, never leave the helm when under way. I don't agree, but only do so when you are sure what's about, where you are, and the general situation at the time. Do not attempt this manoeuvre if there are two hundred people swimming in that vicinity. 

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1 hour ago, stumpy said:

My system is similar to MMs with the exception of a length of rope with a hook on each end which goes between the bog door handle and the first hood iron to take the weight.

 

 I used to commonly see something similar on all the American Sport Cruisers, but not attached to the heads door! :4_joy:

The straps would also let the camper cover convert into a Bimini cover for sun shade. 

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7 minutes ago, Bexs said:

 

 I used to commonly see something similar on all the American Sport Cruisers, but not attached to the heads door! :4_joy:

The straps would also let the camper cover convert into a Bimini cover for sun shade. 

Thats what I had on my first boat,  a cruisers 224.I worked it out after about 5 attempts.

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1 hour ago, Bexs said:

Just watched the first half, great so far! :1310_thumbsup_tone1:

Question: Are all the conkers on board Trixie a preventative for condensation? 

Spiders Bexs...supposed to stop spiders, but judging by the eight legged monstrosity that was sat on my horse chestnut shower gel this morning...

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On the subject of canopies I have seen some that are 2 sections, one folding forwards and one aft with each section locking into position, making them much easier to handle and giving you the choice of having just the front section up, for shade etc, you would need a whole new frame for that (£££) but its maybe worth looking in to

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2 hours ago, 40something said:

On the subject of canopies I have seen some that are 2 sections, one folding forwards and one aft with each section locking into position, making them much easier to handle and giving you the choice of having just the front section up, for shade etc, you would need a whole new frame for that (£££) but its maybe worth looking in to

I think Broadland Saturn at Richardsons is that design. I hired Crown Gem solo which has a one piece design and I had no issues with raising. I guess it's down to the individual set up but there seems no reason Robin's canopy should have to be awkward. 

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1 minute ago, Broads01 said:

I think Broadland Saturn at Richardsons is that design. I hired Crown Gem solo which has a one piece design and I had no issues with raising. I guess it's down to the individual set up but there seems no reason Robin's canopy should have to be awkward. 

Frame design is the key, I bet the one on Crown Gen locked into place, allowing you to fasten to the windscreen at your leisure, also where the pivot points are can greatly effect how heavy it feels to put up or down. Based on this "The canopy is almost impossible to get back up single handed, since it naturally wants to fall down backwards, and only the fasteners on the windscreen keep it up" if it was me I would consider biting the bullet and having a whole new frame + material or at least look at adding some locking bars to hold the canopy in position while you attach to the screen

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I have had a call from Ludham Bridge Boatyard, she is now out the water and after they had got rid of about 1/2 inch of growth from off the hull moved on for a good inspection. All was well, until they got the prop and Skeg. Here a 'pear shaped' Anode had been attached to the Skeg, come loose and appears to have been stuck by the prop thus causing the vibrations and issues I had been experiencing. The Anode will now be moved to a new location to prevent this having a chance to ever happen again.

Otherwise all seems to be progressing well, and have opted for a hard coastal type anti foul (in red) and a boot line which will be a vinyl stripe rather than painted on which will be easier to deal with in future - no keying of the gel coat to paint and simply can be removed and re-applied with fresh when it begins to look less smart.

I thought I would update as to the list of works that are being undertaken to date:

  • To look at why Morse control is so stiff when shifting between forward and astern. Check cable and lubricate as necessary. 
  • While vibration has gotten significantly better at higher RPM to once the boat is out the water check and advise as to propeller pitch and size. 
  • Replace blown bulb in engine gauge panel for the RPM dial and oil pressure gauge. I believe the others illuminate correctly. 
  • Fit suitable LED bulbs in navigation lights, forward steaming light and all round anchor light. 
  • Investigate why mast electrical connection is not working. Possible corrosion of the connector. Replace connector if required with composite (plastic) style not the metal style. 
  • Check charging system is working as should.  Check battery connectors and terminals (they seem a little corroded in places). 
  • Fit a digital style regulator (model to be decided) to ensure battery banks are charged and that one cannot bring down another.
  • Use battery bay space for an additional 110ah domestic battery and moving starter battery to within engine space. Possibly downsize engine battery starter battery. Utilise the larger domestic battery capacity for bow thruster until seperate bow thruster battery can be found a home for.
  • Fit NASA battery monitor to helm console. 
  • Investigate why so little DC voltage is reaching the DC distribution board. I metered it at 10.5v and this does not improve too much when engine is running. It does improve more when mains battery charger is active. Of course this should not fluctuate like this and be close to or just over 12v.
  • To take the headlining down in main cabin and sleeping area. To then use some 3mm  plywood and have new foam backed headlining bonded on.
  • To fit new down lighters (I will supply units and LED bulbs) such to be switched. Two to be used over the galley sink and hob and two over the seating area/table. This would in effect produce a pattern the same as a ‘4’ on a Dice. 
  • In the sleeping area two down lights much in the same location as current lights. These again would need a light switch.  The galley down lights need to have a separate light switch to the seating area down lights. 
  • Headlining to have no visible screws/staples as per what is in situ currently. 
  • To use this opportunity when headlining is down, to remove TV aerial, ventilator and Spot Light. Place Spot Light in a central location where the current horn is located. Replace horn with new model and hard wire the same. 
  • Fit the Vetus ventilator that has a 12v extractor fan inside over hob.
  • Fit a suitable LED light unit on bulkhead in heads compartment where current unit is located. 
  • Check operation of Anchor winch. Tighten remote switch located in helm panel. 
  • Use red hard ‘coastal’ anti foul
  • Gloss stripe in burgundy where current blue stripe is on cabin sides
  • Vinyl burgundy boot line.  
  • Fit new shower mixer tap in heads. This is supplied and on the galley worktop.
  • Fit spare blue fender to bathing platform.
  • De-scale bathing platform and generally clean wood slates. 
  • Replace windscreen wiper blades. 
  • Removal of boat names and application of new names. These are on port berth and shown in writing on reverse what is what and to go where. 

 

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15 minutes ago, Maxwellian said:

Spare Blue Fender...... isn’t one enough?

Well I am having all new fenders - sparkly grey metallic ones - this means I will have about ten size 2 or size 3 blue fenders in due course to be given away.

However, I also have a brand new blue one never used and it makes sense to use that on the swim platform for stern mooring

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