Warnerua4 Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 Hello all after a period of work and illness I have finally got back down the boat but found the old girl ran very rough at idle. As I blindly attempted to correct this I foolishly removed the leads without marking them on the dizzy. I am now lost in a sea of top dead centre exaust and compression stroke could someone please advise Quote
grendel Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 from - http://www.marinemechanic.com/volvo/volvo/aq115-130-170-spec1.htm Quote
Bound2Please Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 1 3 4 2 is the firing order A warm to the NBN from me and the Wench (some call her Inge) Charlie Quote
Warnerua4 Posted June 4, 2018 Author Posted June 4, 2018 The firing order is the same as written on rocker box cover is this the same if the rotation of distributor is anti clockwise Quote
Bound2Please Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 The dizzy on the one I had was im 90% sure clockwise Quote
Warnerua4 Posted June 4, 2018 Author Posted June 4, 2018 I never took the dizzy out just removed the cap and leads. There was clearly some misfiring but having played find the lady with the order of the leads it won't even do that now. I have brought the battery home for charging and will head down to Oulton Broad again tomorrow for another try Quote
Bound2Please Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 36 - 38 deg btdc @2800 - 5000 rpm point setting 40mm plug gap0.7mm all straight from manual Quote
Warnerua4 Posted June 4, 2018 Author Posted June 4, 2018 Thanks to you both for the help and advice. i can just about manage the plugs and points but will need to find the timing point on the engine. The flywheel has already been marked. I am woundering if the different firing order Grendel suggests is for the anti clockwise dizzy although everything I've read says 1,3,4,2 may need to try both. Quote
Bound2Please Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 Mine was definitely 1 3 4 2 clock wise, also the condenser is a pain if still used. I converted mine to electronic, and had the dizzy rebuilt, never had that problem after doing both. Quote
grendel Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 that was just what I found on the internet (maybe an american site) for the non overhead cam version. the big problem is working out which is cylinder 1 on the distributor, but at least if you assume then its just a case of trying each of 4 as no1. Quote
unclemike Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 simple.remove rocker cover, turn engine until No 1 has both valves closed that is compression stroke on No 1 watch rotation of dizzy,this will determine firing order,when No 1 is closed look at dizzy the rotor arm will be pointing at No1 go from there 1 1 Quote
grendel Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 its been a while since I had a volvo that had a distributor, most just have 1 coil per cylinder now (or 1 per 2 cylinders) and the rest is done electronically Quote
annv Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 Hi Remove the distributor cap turn engine in a clockwise direction until the grove on the rim of pulley/damper is opposite pointer on timing case this is top dead center the rotor arm will be pointing at number one or four firing position, place cap over distributor the number one or four lead goes in the cap immediately over the where the rotor arm is pointing to, the length of the plug lead will hopely tell you if it is one or four. continyou to turn engine over until points open next this will be three or two position at 90*d to first position ie number one, there again the length of lead will tell you which one. if unable to tell which is one or four you can remove the rocker cover look at the rocker arms on number one cylinder/front one, if both are level this is one firing point or if one is down then it is number four firing position at distributor. When you have sorted it out a dab of paint on end of lead ie one for one two for two and so on will help in future,while the cap is off a SMALL dab of grease on the cam that lifts the points would be good IF no grease is present.John Quote
annv Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 Not sure if i should tell you this? But but check the gap of the points with a feeler gauge when the shoe is on the high point of the cam ie points open, if gap is not at least 20 thou adjust gap to 25thou if cam has no grease it wears the shoe, if points are burnt better get someone that knows. if still rough on tick on tick over the carb is shellacked because you haven't turned the fuel off when you leave the boat to stop/stall the engine. the petrol then evaporates in the carburetor leaving a deposit in the jets, asquart of redex at end of season prior to leaving is recommended.All petrol engines should be run dry off fuel when leaving for a long time.John Quote
Warnerua4 Posted June 4, 2018 Author Posted June 4, 2018 Thank you all me and my Birchwood are going to be busy boys tomorrow I will let you know how I get on or not. I just want to get her up and running again and get back out there it's been to long and there is building pressure from management to get rid which is getting harder to argue with. Quote
scaniaman Posted June 4, 2018 Posted June 4, 2018 Or you could cheat a little, google the model,look at the images,six images all have leads in the same place,sketch them then try.might work if not use the other methods suggested here. paul. Quote
Guest Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 11 hours ago, scaniaman said: Or you could cheat a little, google the model,look at the images,six images all have leads in the same place,sketch them then try.might work if not use the other methods suggested here. paul. Trouble is if you get one wrong you actually get two wrong, good idea though. Quote
annv Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 Hi Warner All four cylinder volvos are 1342 firing order number one cylinder is front one ie pulley end. I have a Volvo workshop manual 1968 t0 1991 for sale as new £20 see picture covers engine to outdrive overhaul, points gap for your 115 is 0.16 - 0.20 thou John 1 Quote
Bound2Please Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 8 minutes ago, Warnerua4 said: No progress so far people At the end of the day, if its still got points convert it to electronic ignition made all the difference to ours. Quote
Warnerua4 Posted June 5, 2018 Author Posted June 5, 2018 Ive got a kit which I'm going to try next I've changed the plugs points and condenser. I've found tdc till my arms hurt and the rocker box has been on and off like a traffic light. There is petrol in the lines but apart from a momentary cough not a sausage Quote
Guest Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 2 hours ago, Bound2Please said: At the end of the day, if its still got points convert it to electronic ignition made all the difference to ours. Better to find out what is wrong first, not even electronic ignition will work if there is no electrical connection to the battery. Quote
Bound2Please Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 2 minutes ago, Philosophical said: Better to find out what is wrong first, not even electronic ignition will work if there is no electrical connection to the battery. If it is running rough it has battery power Quote
Guest Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 4 minutes ago, Warnerua4 said: Ive got a kit which I'm going to try next I've changed the plugs points and condenser. I've found tdc till my arms hurt and the rocker box has been on and off like a traffic light. There is petrol in the lines but apart from a momentary cough not a sausage After some cranking, have you tried removing a plug and looking at the plug tip; if it is not wet with petrol then maybe there is a fuel issue, Also have you tried removing one plug and with it earthed against the engine look for a spark when cranking; if none the problem is deeper than crossed HT leads (be very cautious of petrol vapour and leaks when doing this) Quote
Guest Posted June 5, 2018 Posted June 5, 2018 6 minutes ago, Bound2Please said: If it is running rough it has battery power I thought the closest to running was a momentary cough????? Quote
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