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Ant Warning!!!


JanetAnne

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5 minutes ago, Timbo said:

Steve and Carol joined the crew tonight. Lovely bimble up to Wayford for an amazing dinner at the Wayford Bridge Inn.  Night nav back and a trip around Barton Broad. Glorious! 

Safely home... But does anyone have any idea why hot water would be coming from both hot and cold taps? 

Sounds like a crossed connection at the calorifier 

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13 hours ago, Selsie said:

Sorry folks!!!

My fault, I should have thought of that :default_dunce:

I think I'd be checking pipework before fitting valves etc.

It is also very possible that we are thermal syphoning the cold water tank bearing in mind the proximity of the final runs.

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The water pump would normally be fitted at the water tank pushing water through the system open hot tap water would flow to calorifier then to hot tap. open cold tap water flows straight from water tank water to cold tap,water could heat be heated in cold pipe if adjacent to heat source but it would only be a small amount,this is assuming that the water tank is not being heated by close proximity to a heat source ie engine or exhaust pipe in which case insulate the pipe with armaflex.John

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I've had similar and a non return valve solved it. The cold water pipe leaving the water pump went to a T-Piece which fed the calorifier and then went on to feed the cold taps. When the system is pressurised any air trapped in the calorifier becomes compressed. On top of that as the water heats up it becomes even more pressurised, a higher pressure than the pump is set for. As soon as you open a cold tap the water under pressure in the calorifier release back into the cold feed and you end up with hot water coming out the cold tap. Run the tap for long enough and the pressure will drop to the point that the water pump kicks in and cold water will then start to flow again. Depending on your type of water pump the problem can be quite severe if there is a big swing between the on and off pressure for the pump.

I fitted a non return valve between the calorifier and the T piece. If you do this, it is important to ensure that you have a proper PRD fitted to the calorifier. Especially in the Winter when heating the water in the calorifier from a very cold temperature.

Another big improvement in my case was the fitting of a Jabsco variable speed water pump. Most pumps cycle fully on or off depending on the pressure switch. The variable speed pump varies the speed of the pump up or down depending on demand and leads to a much more constant pressure which would also help to stop the hot water back filling from the calorifier if no check valve fitted.

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I had an idea last night, but as I was heading up to Beccles straight from work tonight, I only produced a small sample, but I reckon a couple of these about 7" diameter would look nice, one either side on the cockpit sides (suitably painted of course).

P_20180817_102124.jpg

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You are all safe now! RT is back in the wet shed and thanks to all the chaps who turned up to peer into the engine well we got hot water from the hot tap and cold from the cold tap. Griff got a 'thingy' which I believe was attached to the doodah with a wotsit that sorted the oojimaflip and Bob's your Uncle!

I am now enjoying a proper coffee, I only managed one proper coffee...thanks MM...in ten days so the caffeine levels will soon be back to normal.

One final calamity to round off a superb eleven days of boats, friends and fun. I got stung. Again. A quick toilet stop before heading home lead to a condition known as 'Gnatted Undergonks'. Gnatted Undergonks is a severe condition where gnats or midges somehow invade the trousers and bite the living hell out of you on the three-hour drive home. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!

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