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floydraser

Harvey Eastwood 37

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It's certainly not a Borg Warner.

I had a meadows ( to be fair it looked a bit different to yours) which was noisy in reverse but kept going happily until we sorted it. If I remember correctly, it was bearings and the noise was caused by a gear shaft running slightly off true. If you went straight from ahead to astern it wouldn't always engage but given a second or two in neutral  it was as good as gold. 

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That box is a TMP (Thames Marine Propulsion).

The astern  gear works on sun and planet gears, so you have to rev up a lot to get any power in astern. The central wheel has two clutches, one inner and one outer and these are engaged by the little control box seen at the top. This directs oil onto one clutch or the other and keeps the box in gear by oil pressure. So it is a genuine hydraulic box.

The problem is that it is cooled by a water jacket all round the box and if the gaskets start to go, you then get water in the oil. If the oil is clean, fine, but if it starts to go milky white you will have to re-build the box.

To be honest, you may be better to consider changing it for something more modern, which will give you much more positive handling.

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By the way, you have to dip the oil on this box with the engine running at tick-over in neutral. So if you dip it when not running and there appears to be too much oil on the stick, that is normal. Run the engine, take the stick out, wipe it clean and then dip it, for a true reading.

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1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

By the way, you have to dip the oil on this box with the engine running at tick-over in neutral. So if you dip it when not running and there appears to be too much oil on the stick, that is normal. Run the engine, take the stick out, wipe it clean and then dip it, for a true reading.

Thanks Vaughan, very useful info. I checked the oil while cold and not running, but I'll do it again. I'll also have a look at TMP's website for more info. How can you tell it's one of theirs?

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16 minutes ago, floydraser said:

How can you tell it's one of theirs?

I rebuilt quite a few of them back in the 70s!

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6 hours ago, Vaughan said:

I rebuilt quite a few of them back in the 70s!

Ah, I remember the seventies.

Having looked at TMP's website I reckon mine's a mk4? I deliberately tried to hold the phone still to get sight of the id plate but I can't see whether it's blank or there isn't one, what do you think? I'll take some plasticine next time and try and get an impression.

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It looks as though you have the direct drive version without the 2 : 1 reduction gears on the back. This is unusual for a boat of this size and probably means you have a fairly small propellor.

At least this means that the engine is installed with the crankshaft in line with the prop shaft, so a change to a Borg Warner for instance, should not be too difficult.

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9 hours ago, floydraser said:

Thanks Vaughan, very useful info. I checked the oil while cold and not running, but I'll do it again. I'll also have a look at TMP's website for more info. How can you tell it's one of theirs?

Hi Floyd, 

i seem to remember that John Cressy at Maffett Cruisers used to be an agent for TMP gearboxes, but don`t know whether he still is. His number is 01508 520344 (hope the mods are ok with me posting that?), so a quick call should telll yes or no.  In fact, i would recommend Maffett Cruisers for any work you made need doing that you can`t do yourself, they are really great, and have a great and well earned reputation.

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2 hours ago, Vaughan said:

It looks as though you have the direct drive version without the 2 : 1 reduction gears on the back. This is unusual for a boat of this size and probably means you have a fairly small propellor.

At least this means that the engine is installed with the crankshaft in line with the prop shaft, so a change to a Borg Warner for instance, should not be too difficult.

The prop is 16 inch 3 blade according to the hull survey 12 months ago. I'll get in there properly with better lighting when I go next, just to confirm things. I'm taking the view that it ain't broke so there's nothing to fix for the foreseeable future but I am trying to establish exactly what I've got for my own records. 

I was also given a workshop manual for an OE.138 engine but the engine id plates says it's an OE.160. There is other evidence of a previous restoration and I think the engine and box may have been replaced. 

Thanks for your help so far.

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1 hour ago, SPEEDTRIPLE said:

Hi Floyd, 

i seem to remember that John Cressy at Maffett Cruisers used to be an agent for TMP gearboxes, but don`t know whether he still is. His number is 01508 520344 (hope the mods are ok with me posting that?), so a quick call should telll yes or no.  In fact, i would recommend Maffett Cruisers for any work you made need doing that you can`t do yourself, they are really great, and have a great and well earned reputation.

Thanks for that, I'll make a note for the future.

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7 hours ago, floydraser said:

The prop is 16 inch

Yes, I thought so, quite a small one. As you say, if it is working well you may as well leave it for now, until you get used to the boat. If you find you don't have very much stern power then this will be the reason why.

Just keep a regular eye on that gearbox oil. If it starts to go milky, then the gearbox will have to be rebuilt.

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For a boat of that size, I would think so. Depends what the pitch is.

Or am I mistaking your meaning? In which case, size doesn't matter .:default_sleep:

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Hi Floyed There should be a minimum distance between the tip of propeller and bottom of hull and if you can get full/max revs on engine in still deep water the prop size is ok, if unable to, prop is to large or pitch is not correct hull should be clean at time of test. a slightly lower max rev is prefillable to too over revving which is why hire boats tend to be over propped to prevent this. John

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4 minutes ago, annv said:

Hi Floyed There should be a minimum distance between the tip of propeller and bottom of hull and if you can get full/max revs on engine in still deep water the prop size is ok, if unable to, prop is to large or pitch is not correct hull should be clean at time of test. a slightly lower max rev is prefillable to too over revving which is why hire boats tend to be over propped to prevent this. John

Thanks John,

I'll try and remember to check that; on the list of future jobs is treatment of blisters/antifoul/through hull connections etc. She seems to purr along nicely at quite low revs but once we're able to get her out onto the river proper I'll get an experienced opinion.

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I have come to the conclusion that the only way forward properly is to rip up the coating and redo the caulking. No point in taking shortcuts so I'll be using SIS 440. It's most likely to happen after the winter which gives me time to find the best price. Does anyone know anywhere cheaper than Bradechem?

I guess given the boat is 48 years old, the present coating could have been applied 30 years ago in which, that ain't bad!

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Hi Floyd just noticed that i didn't put the distance ie no less than two inches between tip and under side of hull. John

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Here's a bit of an update as I seem to have time on my hands for a change:

I've been over to Brundall a few times now and have come to enjoy the food, beer and service at the Yare pub.

The best friend of one of my Sons has offered to help with the deck caulking which is not only good news for my knees, but it should result in a more professional job; he's a pro yacht skipper with experience of such things. I said I was going to use the SIS440 but Mike is used to Sika 290 and it turns out to be around 25% cheaper at current prices.

Will Kirby of Freshwater Marine was passing and stopped by as he recognised the boat. He and his Dad had a couple of Santa Caterinas in their fleet when they ran Freshwater Cruisers. I now have a slightly better understanding of the canopy mechanism and where to look for it!

Competition time, it's called, "Guess what the tank is for". Under the saloon floor the engine bay is in the middle. Starboard side has the black water tank forward and fresh water tank to the rear of it. Port side has the diesel tank to the rear but we found another tank in front of it just as darkness fell and we were ready to leave. Next time I'll have more of the floor up to investigate but it is a mystery to us.

On the earlier suggestions on this forum I emailed Martham Boats and Eastwood Whelpton but had no reply from either, I was hoping to trace original drawings from Harvey Eastwoods. I see that the Financial Director of Broom is a Matthew Harvey. Would anyone here know if there is a connection?

Floyd.

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Could the 4th tank be a separate fresh water flows tank for the heads,  I have this arrangement on the Calypso,  is there a filler point nearby? 

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Hmm, could be but there is no filler on the deck. I've just checked my video (2b) where I walk along that side. I found what I believe to be the fresh water inlet for the heads under the galley floor, with a valve which has stuck solid. 

Unfortunately I won't be able to get over during the week now because some fool found me some paid work!:594c04f570582_default_happyparty:

 

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sometimes there are two water tanks linked internally to balance each other?

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11 hours ago, grendel said:

sometimes there are two water tanks linked internally to balance each other?

I think that may well be the case. Firstly, it took ages to drain the water even though the open tube indicator showed the level to be low. Also, some information gives the fresh water capacity as 100 gallons which I thought would be a lot of weight to have on one side of the boat. So I should expect to find a connecting pipe accross the bilge and a vent somewhere if that's the case. I'm getting more and more intrigued.

I'm trying to think of a prize for the most correct guess....

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the vent is usually on the side of the boat, when you fill the tank (s) you may well find that when full you find the second vent as it will flow out (thats how you know you are full).

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