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Sanding varnish is`nt about smoothing it down, it`s about giving it a key to accept the next coat. Yes you can sand it by going up in grades, but to get a shine back, you will probably need to go up to 1500 or even 2000 grit.

 

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55 minutes ago, MauriceMynah said:

Lulu, What clearance does Luna Aurora need for bridges? Would it get under Potter?

Her air draft is 6ft 5

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Hi Ray The trick is to get the wood smooth, then vacuum of dust i then apply a thinned with terps first coat this sinks in and gives a better key may need two, depending on wood and how old then build up with several coats with flattening before last coat, all on dry still days, you may want to water the floor to stop dust rising after last coat go home, or pub but away from job, admire next day not the same day. John

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I find a scotch cloth between coats gives an excellent key without removing half the last coat.

Like I said, can of worms! :default_biggrin:

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I have also seen boat painters (that's a skilled trade by the way) who will rub down the later coats of varnish with chalk.

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1 hour ago, JanetAnne said:

I find a scotch cloth between coats gives an excellent key without removing half the last coat.

Like I said, can of worms! :default_biggrin:

I agree, a scotch between each coat is recommended.

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LOL As the opener of this can of worms I feel I should put the lid back on and join MM in a scotch :default_biggrin:

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Now you have opened a can of worms 

Put 30 regular varnish users together and you'll get 30 different answers to that one

 

Never a truer word spoken.  My method for what its worth (Not much to be honest):-

Positively loads and loads of preparation finishing off with a 120 paper.

1)  Hoover off with good old Henry with a brush fitting. (Btw - I had to get a new Henry recently, my last one got married  -  It stopped sucking!)  Wipe down with white spirit on a lint free cloth, allow to dry.  1st coat, Ravilakk thinned down 50 / 50 with genuine turps.

2)  Denib with green nlyon pad (I used to use 0000 wire wool but I find nylon pad produces less swarf), Henry, white spirit/cloth, allow to dry,  Ravilakk/Turps 60/40.    3)  Repeat 70/30.    4)  Repeat 80/20.    5)  Repeat but with full strength.    6)  Last coat, full strength Brava varnish.

'Freshen up' any time 'Down the river' as and when required but flat off with 120, Henry, White spirit cloth, 1 x coat full strength Brava

Now I will point out here that the above method is not the correct way or the incorrect way but works for me and I'm happy with the method / results.

All other tried and tested methods are of course way inferior done by wannabe amateurs  :default_icon_liar:  :default_rofl:   :default_coat:

Griff

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So my plan to use an angle grinder and a domestic foam emulsion roller is probably a non starter you think..... ?

:default_biggrin:

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10 minutes ago, Ray said:

So my plan to use an angle grinder and a domestic foam emulsion roller is probably a non starter you think..... ?

:default_biggrin:

I'd go for a fairly fine disc on the angle grinder - it keeps the sparks to a minimum :default_biggrin:

Foam rollers are a good idea though. The 'gloss' rollers are excellent for getting product on evenly and then just 'laying off' with a brush.

This is rolled and laid off - about the third coat here so the shine is just starting to appear

 

IMG_3409.thumb.JPG.acf1c55c74dc0dc297e3491b76c82eca.JPG

 

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I use the roll on / Lay off brush method when applying paint, Not tried it with varnish though, probably never will now

Griff

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8 minutes ago, BroadAmbition said:

I use the roll on / Lay off brush method

We get our jollies how we can matey!!!

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Adivice?

If you are thinkihg of buying a boat, never mind a woodie, it is not advice you need but therapy you need!

A fellow boat owner.

paul

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ZimbiIV, I would point out than you'll never find a saner person than a boat owner.

Another fellow boat owner

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