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Shurflow Fresh Water Pump Problem


StillCruising

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Hi.

We have a Shurflow 2095-423-342 water pump which was fitted 10 years ago. Last spring when dewinterizing  there was a big leak at the joint at the bottom of the pressure chamber and I found that some of the screws were quite loose and when tightened the leak stopped. We have just dewinterized this year and once again there is a leak at the pump in the same place although it is only an occasional drip this time, maybe 1/4 pint per day, in all other respects the pump works perfectly.

As the pump is ten years old I thought I would just replace it however it seems that the model numbers and specs have changed over there years. My pump has a rating of 20psi (1.4 bar) with a flow rate of 10.5 L/m and a power usage of 7.5 amps however from what I can see the latest version 20psi pump has a flow rate of only 7 L/m and a power usage of 4.5amps. There is a version that will deliver 10 L/m but the pressure is 30 psi and I do not want to increase the line pressure by a third in case it causes problems such a leaks that are not in obvious or accessible places.

On looking at the web it seems that a leak at this joint is a common problem caused by some distortion of the flanges since there is no jointing gasket. The common fix appears to be striping and rebuilding with the application of some flexible  jointing compound such a Hylomar however whilst in my experience this is great for car head gaskets etc. I'm not so sure about using it where it will be in contact with fresh water. So I am thinking about using something non toxic like aquarium sealer. 

Has anyone else had this problem or can offer any thoughts or fixes ?

Regards

Bob

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Edited by StillCruising
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Hi Get a tube of instant gasket as hylmar isn't a instant gasket its a sealer which doesn't hold up if applied thickly, clean joint and dry it apply gasket just enough,   attach cover LOOSELY then LEAVE IT until ideally next day then tighten wrist tight only. John

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Hi.

Thanks for the reply's. We will be back to the boat after Easter for a week and since the water leak is very small and is easily collected we will live with it. When we come back I will bring the pump home and dismantle with a view to checking  / lapping the surfaces on a glass plate and re assembling with a trace of sealer on the surfaces.

Regards

Bob

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Hi Pumpmedic.

Thanks for the links. That is the plastic moulding that houses the diaphragm which mates to the pump housing and switch assembly, the picture shows how little land there is on the mating surfaces. As the pump works ok and holds its pressure (the leak at the joint is very small) I'm assuming that the diaphragm and valves are OK and that there is just a small distortion of either / both of the mouldings possibly due to old age or the hot and cold of the engine bay where it is situated.

In fact the combined cost of both parts comes to more than a new pump so hardly cost effective soI will try the disassembly and rebuild with some sealer but if that doesn't work  I'll just replace with the 7Lpm new version and take a chance on the flow rate.

Regards

Bob

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I wasn`t sure if the link showing the gasket was the correct joint that you were talking about however I doubt lapping it will cure the leak. As you say heat and lack of it causes plastic to distort plus most plastics age harden. 

Once worked for a pump manufacture who had a 300% mark up on aftersale parts so see what you`re saying there.

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Once these things start leaking, they are really on their last legs. Most fixes should be considered to be temporary. 

Increasing pressure MIGHT produce other leaks, but in truth, if this happens, its only a matter of time before they occured anyway. We all know the damage that water can do in your boat, especially if unnoticed for some time. Perhaps it is time to revisit the plumbing as a whole? There are rarely many joints in a boat to be too much work. 

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