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Can anyone tell me where I can find one of these hydraulic oil cooler for a connoisseur 2.5bmc mine has cracked round the bolt hole have tried asap and boulters IMG_20190822_133346.jpeg

 

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Depending on the bolt hole you could have it drilled out and sleeved and then braize the sleeve in to stop the crack travelling.

If it's aluminium a similar repair is possible using an aluminium weld instead of braize.

You need a good local engineering company 

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It's brass the bolt runs down a sleeve about an inch thinking about having it brazed but a new bit would be better

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Hi Starbrite Try MG cars at Swavesey, Cambridgeshire they have oil coolers for mg's that us the same basic block, is there no manufacturer's name on the casting somewhere?. John

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Calcutt Boats advertise as BMC specialists in the canal boat magazines. They list the 1.5 and 1.8 so not sure if they go up to the 2.5.

They are in Southam Warwickshire.  01926 814091

 

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Likely worth trying Jon Heward at Wayford Marine Services as well. He tends to hoard bits!

 

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I can't believe that a system put on boats in the eighties has disappeared from history this system must have been put on a lot of connoisseur s as I've got no. 109 I wonder if anyone else has the same fitting IMG_20190822_133346.jpeg

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If you go down the repair route get a firm price from the engineering firm beforehand.  I was totally taken advantage of by a firm in Lowestoft a few years back who agreed to repair a cracked heat exchanger for me, they told me it wouldn't be “much” then kept it 3 weeks and charged me a lot more than I was expecting.   

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If you go down the repair route get a firm price from the engineering firm beforehand.  I was totally taken advantage of by a firm in Lowestoft a few years back who agreed to repair a cracked heat exchanger for me, they told me it wouldn't be “much” then kept it 3 weeks and charged me a lot more than I was expecting.   
I'm in Yorkshire and belong to a club we have brazing tackle so we will have to repair it or try to upgrade it but to take it apart it'll drop a gallon of hydraulic oil

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well I guess you would have dropped that same gallon fitting any replacement you might have found, my best advice is get some oil spill kits (the absorbant stuff) and get them down in the area around the cooler, then disconnect with a container handy (in case you can catch some of the spill), also if you can / have a pump, drain the cooler off after disconnectingt he top hose, and then rely on the spill kits to catch the rest (if you get any in the bilges cat litter is good at absorbing oil too). you will probably want to flush through and fill with fresh hydraulic fluid anyway.

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well I guess you would have dropped that same gallon fitting any replacement you might have found, my best advice is get some oil spill kits (the absorbant stuff) and get them down in the area around the cooler, then disconnect with a container handy (in case you can catch some of the spill), also if you can / have a pump, drain the cooler off after disconnectingt he top hose, and then rely on the spill kits to catch the rest (if you get any in the bilges cat litter is good at absorbing oil too). you will probably want to flush through and fill with fresh hydraulic fluid anyway.
Hi have you any details of how much oil that should be in the tank as the sight glass is a temperature gauge IMG_20190826_090607.jpeg

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The sight glass does both jobs. It shows oil level (which is low) and oil temperature - which is critical.

You cannot run a hydraulic drive without an oil cooler.

The colour in your photo tells me that someone has mixed clear agricultural hydraulic oil with ATF, which is what you put in Hurth gearboxes but not hydraulic drives. You cannot mix the two or they will eat the rubber oil seals, so it must be drained.

 The correct oil is Total Equivis, which is what they use in combine harvesters.

Let's not beat about the bush here. You cannot do DIY jobs with hydraulic drives. You need experts and the best ones are Peachments in Brundall. They did not make this particular drive but they will certainly be able to advise you and supply a part which will work.

Hydraulic drive is excellent and is almost maintenance free, but you cannot mess about with it. Get it looked at by professionals, and Peachments know more about it than anyone else on the Broads.

In my opinion of course. . . . .:default_coat:

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The sight glass does both jobs. It shows oil level (which is low) and oil temperature - which is critical.
You cannot run a hydraulic drive without an oil cooler.
The colour in your photo tells me that someone has mixed clear agricultural hydraulic oil with ATF, which is what you put in Hurth gearboxes but not hydraulic drives. You cannot mix the two or they will eat the rubber oil seals, so it must be drained.
 The correct oil is Total Equivis, which is what they use in combine harvesters.
Let's not beat about the bush here. You cannot do DIY jobs with hydraulic drives. You need experts and the best ones are Peachments in Brundall. They did not make this particular drive but they will certainly be able to advise you and supply a part which will work.
Hydraulic drive is excellent and is almost maintenance free, but you cannot mess about with it. Get it looked at by professionals, and Peachments know more about it than anyone else on the Broads.
In my opinion of course. . . . .:default_coat:
Thanks for your advice the oil was in it when we bought it 2 years ago as in the picture the boat was in France and bought it from Norfolk boat sales I know nothing about hydraulic drives that's why I'm asking I've not had any trouble with the boat until it started running hot last week someone on here told me to look at the oil cooler and they right I cleaned it out but the top cracked round the bolt hole I did a repair and the temperature dropped 10 degrees so thanks for the very good advice which I will be following

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Just looked up total equivis but lots of different options which no. Do I get

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1 minute ago, Starbrite said:

Just looked up total equivis but lots of different options which no. Do I get

Peachments will tell you - they supply it. It has a number, but I can't remember it offhand. It's been a few years!

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Peachments will tell you - they supply it. It has a number, but I can't remember it offhand. It's been a few years!
Thanks I've sent them an email

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Hi if not near Peachments I get mine from a agricultural merchant its  ISO 42 centra stroke oil , is best for this country BUT i have a Parker F12/80 pump which may be different oil to yours check with peachment or dealer for equivalent to the EQUIVAS that Vaughan said it should have. ATF is a automatic gearbox oil and is a red colour hydraulic oil is usually clear colour, and as with most their is a cheap type and a premium one best is best. John

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