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Seamaster windows


mjt

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Hi,

Does anyone know how the cabin windows are fitted on a Seamaster 23? I've been told that the aluminium frames support the roof, that the fixings are concealed uder the headlining and therefore the windows can't easily be removed. If there is anyone who has detailed knowledge of the construction method I'd be very grateful for the info. The windows ideally need to be removed to allow them to be properly resealed.

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That sounds sensible. Actually, one boatyard owner I spoke to commented that "Seamaster pushed their luck with this design". He said that breakdown of the window sealing can be aggravated just by walking along the side decks because they flex due to insufficient support. I hope I can get the leaks problem sorted satisfactorily because this boat seems to have been rather neglected by recent owners and the Missus and I want to give it a bit of TLC and get it back into good shape.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi again.

Well, in the end it was left to me to find out how the frames were fitted. No-one at the Seamaster Club had encountered this issue before. I've now had all the frames removed, split, the glass re-bedded and the frames refitted and re-sealed. Not cheap but hopefully a more reliable job than just trying to do it in-situ.

If there's anyone else out there who needs to know how it's done I'll be happy to pass on my experience. I think the Seamaster Club will be publishing an article in their magazine in the not too distant future.

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Ok, well very briefly:-

The side window frames are held along the top edge by screws which are hidden under the aluminium gutter. The screws go through the edge of the cabin roof, through the frame flanges and into the wooden battens to which the headlining is attached**. The frame flanges are thus clamped between the battens and the roof. Of these screws the ones nearest the front also go through the top of the external corner cover plates.

The front frame flanges are also clamped between the battens and the roof but in this case the screws go through the headlining battens (from the inside), through the frame flange and into the roof structure. Of these screws the two nearest the centre also go through the top of the external centre cover plate. In each front frame there are also two further screws holding it to the roof structure which are hidden beneath the battens. Of these the ones nearest the corners also go through the top of the external corner cover plates.

Where the frames meet in the corners there are wooden filler pieces profiled to suit the corner angle. These must go back the same way they come out.

The gutters and frames are stuck firmly by a hard grey mastic-like material. Removal is made a lot easier by the application of some heat.

Since the headlining battens need to be moved around it is necessary to first remove the curtain rails and the wooden cappings above the windows. Also, because the vertical wooden cappings in the front corners are screwed to the corner filler pieces these must also be removed.

Because the roof is supported by the window frames only one frame should be removed at a time. It is also prudent to only remove one of the front frames at a time to preserve the lateral stability of the roof (i.e. to prevent it wobbling from side to side).

Note:- ** In my boat the headlining is cloth and has become fragile with age so it was quite difficult to prevent it tearing as the battens were moved.

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