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Outdrive Refit

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Ok here we go.........

I shall be fitting my Outdrive back on this weekend (Weather being on my side) and wanted to see what other people have used when fitting the gasket.

I have been advised by a Marine Engineer, that he just puts waterproof grease onto the gasket for a good seal. Now this may be ok, but i am not sure if i would be comfortable with this, as i can't afford to have any leaks at all. This is due to the fact that i may not be able to be there when the boat is craned back in (Although i think i really need to organise this with the Marina so that i am) because if it leaks, the boat will sink.

The only bilge pump on the boat, covers the forward part of the divide and has no float switch attached. The engine part (aft) of the divide has no bilge pump.

I have all the components to sort these out, but im not going to have time to sort it out before the boat goes back in.

I am tempted to either use Red Hermatite or Blu Hylomar with the Gasket as a safer bet.

So, back to my question. What have you used / done in the past.

I need a 100% seal on this with no mistakes.

Thanks Guys

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1. Clean off all old gasket material on the bell housing and the outdrive. Replace all

o-rings on the shaft, inside the bell housing, and the water passage o-ring (glue or

grease it to hold it in place). On Gen. ll units with an internal reservoir, make sure

the o-ring is OK around the gear lube fitting. Install a new gasket.

2. Using a good marine grease, liberally grease the “U†joints, the roller on the shift

slide, the shift slide itself, the input shaft o-ring area and splines.

3.4. It helps to have the drive on the ground and the input shaft level with the boat. If

you don’t have to lift the drive it is much easier.

5. You need to shift the drive into forward (hopefully the boat is still in forward).

This done by turning the propshaft counter-clockwise while turning the brass shift

shaft clockwise. Generation two units have a stainless steel shift shaft. You should

feel it lock solidly.

6. It helps to have a prop on the drive in case you need to turn it to make the input

shaft splines line up.

7. With the drive and boat in forward, everything greased, carefully slide the input

shaft into the gimbal bearing. The shift crank roller should be engaged in the shift

slide. (It helps to use a thick grease to hold these parts together)

8. If you bump the propeller, it may move out of forward, verify it’s still in forward.

As you slide the drive in, you should feel the shaft go into the coupler, as it gets

very close, you made need to turn the prop counter-clockwise to turn the input

shaft slightly (it will turn with some resistance). At the same time you will be

verifying the shift roller and slide are still where they should be. Work the drive

into the splines and onto the studs. You will feel resistance from the o-rings. You

should NOT have to force anything!

9. Now tighten the six nuts on the studs (45 foot pounds, or good and tight). Have a

helper shift the boat into neutral (not running, please), then reverse and back to

forward all the while spinning the prop. The prop should lock in forward and

reverse and obviously spin free in neutral. If this is not the case, check to make

sure the shift roller did not disengage the shift slide. In some cases when replacing

the drive with a new unit, the shift may have to be adjusted. This is discussed in

detail elsewhere, or you can take it to your dealer for an adjustment.

10. Replace the trim cylinder anchor pin hardware.

11. Refill the outdrive with good quality synthetic gear lube, recommended

Quicksilver or Sierra hi performance synthetic gear lube. The gear lube is filled

from the bottom up. With your gear lube pumping in the bottom, fill until the

lube runs out the top hole. Replace the upper screw first, then the lower screw.

The gear lube level should be given a final check after settling, preferably a day or

so later. DONâ€T FORGET to fill the internal reservoir!

12. With a garden hose flush attachment attached or the boat in the water, run the

engine and verify water pump operation (water should pump out of transom

assembly) and good shift engagement forward and reverse (watch for obstacles or

people when shifting). It is advisable when replacing with a new drive to verify

proper shift adjustment with the boat in the water. Shifting should be firm and

positive (no ratcheting) at or near the detent areas on the control box. Stalling

when shifting and lack of cooling water being pumped are signs of other

problems. Call for help. Recommended tools and supplies:

1. Hand tools: Ratchet and or breaker bar, Sockets 5/8â€

If you havn,t got it here,s a bit off the web

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Blimey Trevor, can you speed type or what.

Thats quite a comprehensive set of instructions you have there.

I have the workshop manual for this, so all torque settings and instructions are there, apart from what to actually use on the gasket.

But i will print off what you wrote, as that is very helpful, thank you.

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I had a Gen II for fifteen years from new and had it off every two years to to replace the bellows and check the shaft alignment, gimble bearings, UJ etc. All I ever used on the drive to gimble joint was the gasket and a little grease to help it spread and seat the "O" rings, never had any issues with water getting in and it was still going strong at 1300 hours. It really is worth using the proper spline grease which has different properties to the stuff used in the gimble bearings and swivels on the drive. If you think about it, the splines on the shaft and in the drive coupling though rotating at a fair clip actually move very little in relation to each other but are under a lot of torque so bearing grease is inappropriate.

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No Problem David. (Hope i got your name right from memory)

I have the proper Quicksilver grease for the gimble bearing & U joint, but regarding the drive shaft, i am using Keenol which is a lithium based grease and should be adequate for providing the lube i need.

I have the correct Marine high pressure oil for the gearbox / reservoir and brand new trim ram pins / bushes / washers / circlips / covers etc for front and back, as they had play in them and the pins were pitted.

I also have the complete gasket kit for it which includes all o rings inc 3 on the drive shaft, the very large one that sits just in front of the bellows and has to be glued in place and the main gasket, which is the part that i am trying to decide whether to just grease or use with a gasket sealer.

The manual mentions greasing up the o rings, but does not mention what to use on the main gasket.

Its good to hear your comments on this, as it will help me decide on what to use when it goes back on.

As long as it dont leak, then i dont mind which one to use.

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