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Ratchet Crimping Tools, £2


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If your soldering is dodgy, or you don't have access to solder then a crimp terminal is a better option. A well made crimped joint is better than a poor solder joint. 

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You need a solid joint particularly on a boat. I would echo the solder and heat shrink method - I use this often on my old radios. I get various sizes of heat shrink sleeving from Crickelwood Electronics. Good stuff. 

Soldering is a bit of a knack. Clean joints are vital and don't use too much solder. Multi core is easiest to use. For my radios I use the old fashioned lead stuff - the modern lead free has a higher melting point and (personally) bit more difficult to use. Plus an iron for the size of the job - small iron for delicate stuff! 

Good luck! 

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8 minutes ago, Paul said:

If your soldering is dodgy, or you don't have access to solder then a crimp terminal is a better option. A well made crimped joint is better than a poor solder joint. 

True - needs to be a solid joint particularly on a boat. 

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34 minutes ago, MauriceMynah said:

I've been trying to rep[ly to these suggestions but the laptop was playing silly whatsits.

First problem. My soldering skills are nil. Any soldering I've done in the past looks like an iron foundry, has more electrical resistance than a latex suit and uses the best paryt of a roll of solder per joint. 

Still, if that's how it is, then I'll have another bash... unles someone has another suggestion..... please.   :-)

OK, then my next suggestion is the heat shrink solder jobbies suggested by Alan, they should take away any lack of skill, not my first preference, but I can make a decent solder joint.

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Thank you Grendel,  I have never used the items you list above, but I can appreciate that they would be suitable to people that do not have soldering skills.

I am like you I would prefer to solder them with an iron. Back in the day we all used copper irons of various sizes heated in a gas ring with stands and a hood. These days I use Antex soldering irons including their gas iron for situations with no electric.

With MM's current application I would be inclined to strip the insulation of both wires but first put some heat shrink on one end, twist the cables together (being they are thin) and solder them using a cleaned and tinned iron, as already stated multicore solder  is the best option these days for general soldering. When the joint has cooled pull over the shrink sleeving and apply moderate heat.

Regards

Alan

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Sorry to seem to be a complete doughnut here... (forget "appear") but I have no knowledge at all regarding "shrink sleeving" or "heat shrink"

What do I ask for?  Where do I ask for it?   and what is the recommended heat source (ie how hot?) baring in mind that this job will be done with the wire joint only an inch or so from the body and other electrics of the car.

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53 minutes ago, MauriceMynah said:

Sorry to seem to be a complete doughnut here... (forget "appear") but I have no knowledge at all regarding "shrink sleeving" or "heat shrink"

What do I ask for?  Where do I ask for it?   and what is the recommended heat source (ie how hot?) baring in mind that this job will be done with the wire joint only an inch or so from the body and other electrics of the car.

Hi John,

I would use an hairdryer on the lowest setting.

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to be fair most heat sources will do the job, even one of those gas hob lighters, I use a gas soldering iron that doubles as a small heat gun, and that does the job great, but a match or lighter also works, just apply the heat gently and watch it shrink, it usually forms a water resistant seal over the solder joint.

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Right, here I am, all the gear, no idea!

I've just ordered  (from Amazon) the crimping tool, with it's associated crimps as shown in the original post on this thread. I have also ordered shrinky wrappy sleevy plastic bits from Cricklewood Electronics as recommended by NN, and I'm just about to order a Draper 78775 flameless gas torch. (I am holding back a bit on that whilst I await Grendel's opinion on the device.

Alan, I am surprised that a hairdryer on any setting is hot enough, but my main problem is that I am trying to avoid buying any 240v devices given my possible boating future. However, if you say one is hot enough, I may just buy a cheapie and stow it somewhere. Anyone have any recommendations for manufactures ?

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Heat shrink comes in various diameters use the smallest size that fits wire diameter if using a electric soldering iron i use the metal shaft that protects the element to shrink it gets hot but not to hot to shrink the sleeves DON'T use bare flame. John

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1 hour ago, MauriceMynah said:

(I am holding back a bit on that whilst I await Grendel's opinion on the device.

thats similar to the one i use, mine was from lidls and is a gas soldering iron, it has a part with a gauze to give flameless heat, but that device would do the job

http://offers.kd2.org/en/gb/lidl/peGRq/

mine has a soldering tip, a flame torch option and heat gun option. i also have a very small soldering iron that runs off 2 aa batteries but thats really only good for small amounts of soldering. lidls parkside cordless range covers most tools you could need, and being cordless are ultimately useable anywhere as long as you have a home base to charge the batteries.

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The main mistakes most people make when soldering are using the wrong tool or not tinning the work prperly, then adding more and ore solder to the joint in order to make it flow. 

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3 hours ago, MauriceMynah said:

about to order a Draper 78775 flameless gas torch.

I have got one of those, purchased to do a fairly major rewire on my last boat, and to be honest I was a little disappointed with it. It does do the job but it's rather slow at it, the heat scource is buried well within the unit.

Although, thinking about it, if you are only doing a few joints and aren't confident then it may actually be ideal.

I tend to use a lighter if it's only a quick job or space is tight(be careful not to overheat/burn the wire insulation) or a proper heatgun with deflecter if there is room to do so.

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I'm sure that in this case the Lidl and Aldi ones come from the same factory as do most of their tools. I have noticed however, they are getting more competitive lately and one will undercut the other.

The main difference for me is that I can walk to the local Aldi!

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