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Interior teak decking


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No problem Barry. I suspect the epoxy adhesive will be better for the job, and if I was to do it again I think I would use that in preference tothe pressure sensitive stuff, as you don't have the 2-3 hour wait for the stuff to dry before you can lay the flooring. The pressure sensitive adhesive goes rather like a rubber solution once cured.

Incase you are interested, I have now also finished the new carpeting so here is the finished article.

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I have just made a very expensive mistake and shown the missus your photos! Can you please create an instruction sheet on how you did such a wonderful looking job!

Seriously jealous.

Paul

Pay someone else :grin: . In all seriousness, it's not that hard if you have a DIY mindset. I found the best way was definately to pre-cut everything before splashing glue around though! The first step I did, I put the nosing on first, which I warmed with a hot air gun in order to form it around the step, then cut the infills long in order to trim them all in one go once they were in place. It was a bit awkward, so the next one, I cut the infills about 2mm short, laid them all into the glue, and then did a final trim 5mm back from the nosing to drop in the last feature strip. That worked much better.

The floor hatches I took home to do them one evening, and again pre-cut everything first, just leaving the hinge and handle rebates to cut once they were in place on the boat. The rest of it was just a matter iof lots of little paper templates to follow curves etc, and patience!

Thanks for the kind comments guys. We are very pleased with how it has turned out, and as an added bonus it has also made the cabin so much lighter in the mornings, as we found out this weekend. It's a pleasure to get out of bed now as the sunshine makes it feel very inviting. So much better than manky turquoise carpet!

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  • 2 years later...

HI Naijan. I don't think I'd want to use it in an exterior situation, as it is meant for inside and would probably degrade quite quickly in UV and weather. The best option would be a synthetic teak such as TekDek or Permateek.

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Yes that's probably the best idea, how is the one you done wearing, is this pressure sensitive glue holding well, or would you recommend epoxy based? I'm doing the same thing in the cabin but on larger scale will post the effect when finish.

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I no longer own that boat, but it is berthed in our marina, and the flooring is still looking as good as new. If I were to lay the Karndene stuff again, I would use the epoxy glue I think. The pressure sensitive glue is fine and still stuck well, but actually using it was a bit of a pain due to the time you have to wait for the glue to "go off" after spreading. It has to dry before you can lay the floor which took up to 2 hours so a lot of wasted time. I seem to remember the epoxy stuff can have the flooring laid on it within about 15 minutes.

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Hi Mark

I was so impressed with what you have done that I am seriously considering it for our cockpit, not in the same colours but something more magogany coloured with black strips. I have got the brochure and have found Kerrys in North Walsham stock it, I have always found them to be very helpful. When I was leaving I ran into their carpet fitter who I know and he told me about the epoxy adhesive so I suspect that is the way we will go, they also told me it needs to be on a 6mm ply substrate.(Or it could have been 5mm).

Thanks for the tip.

Hi Barry,

We have just done the cockpit of our sailing boat with real wood veneer teak and holly ply, all the boards were edged in teak and covered in west, it looks fantastic, I will be doing my launch with it but have considered cherry and black for Broadsventure.

it is about 250 quid a sheet.

I think the effect of the karndean is good, we have it in some of our public areasas it is mega hard wearing but not sure about putting it on a classic boat...

Just my opinion and you have previously told me where to put that!!

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Thank you guys, i will probably use an epoxy based glue to cut down the time.

Another thing, our boat was completely gutted down to an empty shell, everything had to be rebuilt inside, that includes the ceiling with new battens epoxied in and new flexi ply with foam backed upholstery. Initially I was going to leave the void empty between the grp and the new roof lining following words of warning about the condensation problem I could have if i put any insulation (from one of the boat yards "old hands") However after recently working on the boat in full sun (rare occurrences) with doors and hatches wide open, the inside got very hot. So I have decided I will put silver blanket type insulation. If anyone has any comment on that it would be very welcome.

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Thank you guys, i will probably use an epoxy based glue to cut down the time.

Another thing, our boat was completely gutted down to an empty shell, everything had to be rebuilt inside, that includes the ceiling with new battens epoxied in and new flexi ply with foam backed upholstery. Initially I was going to leave the void empty between the grp and the new roof lining following words of warning about the condensation problem I could have if i put any insulation (from one of the boat yards "old hands") However after recently working on the boat in full sun (rare occurrences) with doors and hatches wide open, the inside got very hot. So I have decided I will put silver blanket type insulation. If anyone has any comment on that it would be very welcome.

Stapling that foil sided bubble wrap across the battens works well, then put your headlining on top of this. you still leave the void which in an ideal world would be vented.

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