Hot Water

[annv]

Gentle bends along with support every 12 inchs keeping the hose at a angle/slope in direction of flow if pos. John

[BrundallNavy]

Well pipe replaced but still no hot water. I’m running out of ideas next I think a hose pipe through the calorifier. 

[PCL023]

It’s the best way to get any air locks out of the keel cooler. The engine water pump will not be able to push it through in some cases. Once water is flowing nicely from the return, pop the hose in the header tank while you quickly remake the connections, a spare pair of hands is very handy when doing this. 

cheers

Paul 

[BrundallNavy]

4 hours ago, PCL023 said:

It’s the best way to get any air locks out of the keel cooler. The engine water pump will not be able to push it through in some cases. Once water is flowing nicely from the return, pop the hose in the header tank while you quickly remake the connections, a spare pair of hands is very handy when doing this. 

cheers

Paul 

The keel cooler is working fine ( After the use of a hose pipe) it’s just hot water which is the problem. 
 

Today 4-5 hrs running and a lot at 2000 rpm and we have very hot water like it use to be. Now I’m really confused. 

[PCL023]

Sounds like there was an air lock in the tank, this could percolate it’s way in to the keel cooler over time. 
 
it was a very long time ago we had this issue on Nice One. 

I seem to remember we may have ended flushing the system the other way around, as the stat will shut when cold water hits it. So from below the engine water pump flush the hose through the keel cooler through the tank, until it runs clear out of the top of the header tank, (cap removed), Then remove the water hose and put it in to the header tank and connect the disconnected lower keel pipe. 

Are you loosing any coolant when running? 

if not it’s a tricky one which I’m thinking pressure cap or water pump? Most likely it could just be a bit of air left in the system that’s not been flushed through. 

Cheers 

Paul 

 

 

 

[BrundallNavy]

The header tank was down about 1 ltr today no signs of any leaks. I did think about the water pump but we lost the hot water suddenly and I’m not sure the pump would cause that , running the engine at higher rpm could overcome a week pump as we normally cruise at 1200 to 1400 rpm. We will see what tomorrow brings. 

[annv]

Hi If the engine pump was not working you would over heat,if water lose and now leak could be head casket to check connect a container to over flow pipe and check if it fills up if so double check rad cap for correct sealing or remove cap fill to brim and run engine at a 900 rpm if bubbles keep erupting from header tank /cap this shows leaking head gasket or a hot spot in engine water jacket due to blocked water gallerys userly caused by insignificant good quality antifreeze being used first try tightening head bolts/nuts to correct torque, or head off reface/decoke while head off or new head gasket. John

[BrundallNavy]

1 hour ago, annv said:

Hi If the engine pump was not working you would over heat,if water lose and now leak could be head casket to check connect a container to over flow pipe and check if it fills up if so double check rad cap for correct sealing or remove cap fill to brim and run engine at a 900 rpm if bubbles keep erupting from header tank /cap this shows leaking head gasket or a hot spot in engine water jacket due to blocked water gallerys userly caused by insignificant good quality antifreeze being used first try tightening head bolts/nuts to correct torque, or head off reface/decoke while head off or new head gasket. John

It had a top end overhaul earlier this year. I have a catch tank which is empty after running the engine has had a new thermostat and radiator cap which are working fine. The engine runs at 85’ which is normal since we have owned the boat. After an 1 1/2 hours running today the water is warm but no where as hot as it use to be. 

[annv]

Hi Has the head nuts been re torque after 50/100 hours running?,has the calorforia heating tubes been flushed through with hose pipe, have you renewed said pipes from engine to   and return, they can collapse inside and restrict flow, have you checked tee piece connector to bottom hose they can corrode inside, have you removed cap and top hose to calorforia to check flow/air lock. John

[BrundallNavy]

9 minutes ago, annv said:

Hi Has the head nuts been re torque after 50/100 hours running?,has the calorforia heating tubes been flushed through with hose pipe, have you renewed said pipes from engine to   and return, they can collapse inside and restrict flow, have you checked tee piece connector to bottom hose they can corrode inside, have you removed cap and top hose to calorforia to check flow/air lock. John

It’s only done around 30 hrs since fitting but I will re torque when I can get a wrench. Hoses have been replaced   Flow now from the return from the calorifier but it isn’t great. I think we will live with it for the rest of the week as we can get hot water on electric and I will go over the system throughly when we get back to our home mooring. 

[annv]

Hi Hopefully something simple like a bit of crud from engine strip down, with a car simple to just drop the hoses and flush everything down the drain then blow of with air line not so easy on a boat without flooding the bilges and polluting the river. John

[Oddfellow]

There's four main possibilities for the loss of water in the header tank 

1) it's being boiled off

2) there's a leak in the water circuit 

3) Headgasket has gone. 

4) You had an air lock that's cleared and the water has replaced the air. 

Check the temperature of the hoses when running at normal temperature. 

If the engine circ pump is on it's way out, it's quite possible that it dosen't have the guts to circulate the water fully though the system. If your calorifier is T-ed off the circuit, the T will create a restriction that a poor circ pump might not be able to push though. 

 

[annv]

Hi Doug Just thought keep a eye on your oil level and color if still losing water and it is  getting in the sump the level will/may rise and the color will go milky, this will confirm head gasket/ cracked head, hopefully not tighten nuts first,, did they face the head when it was removed?. John

[sgbatyork]

You mentioned that the hoses have been replaced. 

Is it possible that the flow and return hoses to the calorifier have been connected the wrong way around?  I understand that the system is tee'd and given that the keel is the lowest (and coldest) part of the boat then gravity will prioritise in this direction if the hoses are the wrong way around.

This might also explain the apparent loss of coolant as any trapped air will be forced the wrong way through the system and is likely to get stuck somewhere until it expands enough to get moved or escapes through the filler cap.

Just a thought. :-)

[BroadAmbition]

I’ll bring another bucket next week then

Griff

[grendel]

best I can offer from water rail is a kettle full.

[ExSurveyor]

The fleet looked mighty fine going past just now. 

[BrundallNavy]

2 1/2 cruising at 1800 rpm and we have lots of hot water.  I give up !!!! 

[annv]

hi If there is low water or restricted flow 1800 rev's could over come this or! if restricted flow it takes this long to heat up,wait until you get home and remove pipes etc as previously discussed, your get there eventually, cant have you siting around with nothing to do. John