Insulating Of Boats

[Andrewcook]

As the Government of the day is trying to stop Heat coming of Houses / Shops and  factories in Winter as to cutting the use of fuel we use will this applies to the Old and New boats by cutting down Heat  losses going out and save on Fuel at the same  time.

[annv]

Hi Ideally boats should have spray foam insulation applied this not only keeps heat in but stops condensation and acts as sound deadening. John

[rightsaidfred]

1 hour ago, Andrewcook said:

As the Government of the day is trying to stop Heat coming of Houses / Shops and  factories in Winter as to cutting the use of fuel we use will this applies to the Old and New boats by cutting down Heat  losses going out and save on Fuel at the same  time.

As with houses new builds are one thing retrofitting is another in both cost and practicality, everything needs to breath be it buildings, boats or the ground they keep building on including solar farms.

Fred

[ExSurveyor]

Retro fitting insulation in any building, particularly domestic ones is fraught with problems.

Badly installed, the wrong type or the wrong location can create huge problems.

Not every cavity wall is suitable for  infill insulation. Blown fibre or bead can and does settle leaving cold spots. Injected expanding foam can blow the wall structure and cause the outer leaf to fail.

Both can create pathways for moisture to track across and allow ingress of moisture to inner surfaces.

I have seen all of these problems many times.

Removing  insulation and drying a wall structure is a hideously expensive job.

I haven't  heard of any issues with external clad insulation with a render coat, yet.

The number of new builds that have damp problems because everywhere is sealed up and the occupants dry washing on airers and radiators is staggering.

Loft insulatiin is great and very effective, as long as it doesn't go into the eaves spaces and block the through ventilation of the roof void.

I have seen a number of decayed roof timbers becauce someone got insulation happy thinking more is better.

If we are to insulate some of the older housing stock it needs to be done carefully and in a selective manner.

 

[rightsaidfred]

57 minutes ago, ExSurveyor said:

Retro fitting insulation in any building, particularly domestic ones is fraught with problems.

Badly installed, the wrong type or the wrong location can create huge problems.

Not every cavity wall is suitable for  infill insulation. Blown fibre or bead can and does settle leaving cold spots. Injected expanding foam can blow the wall structure and cause the outer leaf to fail.

Both can create pathways for moisture to track across and allow ingress of moisture to inner surfaces.

I have seen all of these problems many times.

Removing  insulation and drying a wall structure is a hideously expensive job.

I haven't  heard of any issues with external clad insulation with a render coat, yet.

The number of new builds that have damp problems because everywhere is sealed up and the occupants dry washing on airers and radiators is staggering.

Loft insulatiin is great and very effective, as long as it doesn't go into the eaves spaces and block the through ventilation of the roof void.

I have seen a number of decayed roof timbers becauce someone got insulation happy thinking more is better.

If we are to insulate some of the older housing stock it needs to be done carefully and in a selective manner.

 

Thats without all the prewar houses with solid walls or stone built not cavity, ours is rendered with pebble dash which does nothing for heat loss but allows the brickwork to breath, I have seen some with the  york stone cladding that was fashionable at one time with terrible damp problems.

Fred

[ExSurveyor]

23 minutes ago, rightsaidfred said:

I have seen some with the  york stone cladding that was fashionable at one time with terrible damp problems.

I think it was fashionable for a week , dreadful stuff, purely decorative, no other function. The adhesive must have ben good because it is a nightmare to remove without taking the brick face with it.

[AndyTBoater]

Is stone cladding a viable alternative to varnish? No more rubbing down and waiting to find the right day/temperature/humidity levels.

I feel a new business idea forming.

Also I will be producing nautical mudweight cosies. Hand knitted, personalised with boat names and keeps the heat in.

Andy

[grendel]

I remember our first house, single skin brick wall, with damp problems, before we moved in the council got contractors in who drilled all of the walls 12" up from the floor and injected a new damp course, then of course every wall needed the bottom 12" plastering, once we moved in they told us the chimney leaked and we had to wait 6 moths while that was relined, then the first time we lit the fire, the concrete of the hearth exploded due to the residual damp still in it. the council were limited to what they could do because of its grade 2 listing (one of the very few grade 2 listed council houses on their books. the building dated from the 19th century, no way of insulating the walls with no cavity. (back then). no external cladding due to the listing, we had enough problems when it came to fitting double glazing, it had to be internal secondary glazing to suit the listing.

[Oddfellow]

Insulating a GRP broads cruiser is virtually impossible. There's rarely any more than an inch between any head lining and the GRP and you would want that as an air-gap before you put another 2 inches of insulation on that and then finished it off with a new headlining. Basically, you're cutting your head height the moment you begin.

Building it in from the start might be an option, but only if you don't want to get under Ludham Bridge. 

 

[rightsaidfred]

Now we are starting to have problems as we are getting into the realms of joined up thinking, this is not allowed under the current rush for utopia.

Fred

Fred

[RumPunch]

22 minutes ago, grendel said:

I remember our first house, single skin brick wall, with damp problems, before we moved in the council got contractors in who drilled all of the walls 12" up from the floor and injected a new damp course, then of course every wall needed the bottom 12" plastering, once we moved in they told us the chimney leaked and we had to wait 6 moths while that was relined, then the first time we lit the fire, the concrete of the hearth exploded due to the residual damp still in it. the council were limited to what they could do because of its grade 2 listing (one of the very few grade 2 listed council houses on their books. the building dated from the 19th century, no way of insulating the walls with no cavity. (back then). no external cladding due to the listing, we had enough problems when it came to fitting double glazing, it had to be internal secondary glazing to suit the listing.

Yep ( me ) - solid walls, reed partition walls and ceilings. Typical old Norfolk village red brick

[vanessan]

I’m waiting for someone to mention wattle and daub………

[BroadAmbition]

Get yersen a bio degradable.

Timber is a natural insulator, far better than tupperware, less condensation too

Griff

[Smoggy]

For small gaps in headlinings the foil backed bubblewrap for behind radiators makes a difference.

[TheQ]

I have reed and plaster ceilings and one small room still has reed and plaster to brick walls. Back in the early 80's the previous owners removed most of the the reed and plaster and replaced in with modern cements along with an injected damp proof course, which seems to be working.. As for insulation it will have to go on the outside the rooms are small enough as it is..

[rightsaidfred]

29 minutes ago, Smoggy said:

For small gaps in headlinings the foil backed bubblewrap for behind radiators makes a difference.

Not a lot of point on centre cockpit, to much glass and gaps around canopy, double glazing would add to much weight.

Fred