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And So It Starts,i Get Intimate With The Boat.


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15 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

While you have got all those pipes out of the way it is a good time to withdraw the tube stack of the heat exchanger and check that it is not "furred up".  In the normal way, you cannot get access to do this.

I noticed earlier that the size of the raw water intake pipe to the pump has been reduced.  If you continue to get problems with engine cooling, it may well be worth fitting a larger pipe to allow a better flow.

I’ve got all( I think) parts to do that,

I don’t actually know if there are any cooling “problems” as such as I’ve not been out on the river yet.

Ive still got the issue with the leaking rear main, so I may just keep taking stuff off as I’d rather not do stuff twice.:default_biggrin:

I think gearbox out is a two man job so boys weekend may be in order,

the two longer hoses from the gearbox oil cooler are not included with the kit,they look a bit manky so I’ll order new,

I want all raw water pipes to be sound and double clipped anyway.

I may as well get the parts for the rear main as well

my aim is to bring the boat up to scratch,in the big scheme of things hoses and gaskets are cheap so it’s easier just to cut the hose off than struggle with a stubborn stuck corroded one,

I’ll take a better look at the intake pipe tomorrow.

I must admit, I was watching a YouTube vid of “broad ambitions” the other night when she was heading to Ipswich with another boat ,I was surprised at the amount of water exiting from the exhaust,but to be fair I’ve always been at the helm position when making headway.

I hadn’t noticed any reducers on the intake.

will take some pics.

thanks for the advice Vaughan,it’s much appreciated having an experienced set of eyes looking over one’s shoulder.

 

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I want all raw water pipes to be sound and double clipped anyway.

Belts and braces is always good.  However consider not using jubilee clips at all but exhaust clamps instead, no need to double clip then.

They are readily available on Ebay in 316 s/steel in all sizes.  We are slowly changing ours over to them

Griff

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10 hours ago, mikeyboy1966 said:

I don’t actually know if there are any cooling “problems” as such as I’ve not been out on the river yet.

If you have had a replacement cylinder head - on a private boat - there have been cooling problems in the past.  The Perkins has an unfortunate habit of bending the head when it gets badly boiled up.  The colour of the paint on the rocker box cover speaks volumes to me.

Another problem might have been a restriction in the exhaust water injection bend but you have got that off for cleaning so that's fine.  You are absolutely right to fit the raw water intake pipe in spiral re-inforced pipe, which cannot kink, or squash flat because of suction.  Try to arrange the pipework so that the raw water runs to the engine heat exchanger before the gearbox oil cooler.  If you have an engine oil cooler you can take this off for Broads use, as you will not be revving fast or long enough to need it.

Don't get me wrong, the Perkins is a great engine and all the work you are doing on it will be of good benefit.  It can be run in neutral for charging batteries without glazing the bores ; it will come up to temperature at the same time, for hot water heating, without needing to be run in gear and with that Borg Warner 2 : 1 reduction gearbox you will find it very economical.  They didn't fit them in at least half of all hire boats, for nothing!

By the way, don't forget to test and clean the pre-heat glow plug in the intake manifold.  This plug heats the intake air but also opens a valve which drips diesel onto it.  Hence the white smoke which comes out before you start. By this means you are drawing burning diesel into the engine when you turn it over and it works very well!  There used to be a little "K Gas" tank on the bulkhead to provide this diesel but I see that yours is piped from the return side of the fuel filter, which is good.

Have fun!

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12 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

 Try to arrange the pipework so that the raw water runs to the engine heat exchanger before the gearbox oil cooler.

Just been thinking - on the "Lowline" version which you have, this would not be possible.  Never mind!

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Couple of questions for the knowledgeable,

Does this valve (with the red ****)normally have a constant drip,

I guess  it’s the pressure relief valve,

my issue is,it just exits into the bilge,which is a bit poor.

I was going to route it into a shower drain box but would be a major faff to site the unit,

so I think I’ll just fit an inline diaphragm pump to the shower drain instead,

any thoughts on just piping it into the shower drain pipe with a Ypiece.

0FDCA547-E5C4-41C0-B659-CBBD20D36062.jpeg

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Yes it is indeed as pressure relief valve.

No, it shouldn't drip at all. 

Routing it straight into the bilge is more than acceptable as under normal circumstances there won't be any discharge from it at all ever

Once a month or so you should twist the red top both clockwise and anti clockwise to test its operation and ensure it doesn't become seized up.  Doing this a few times in quick succession may well cure the drip, if it doesn't then you will need to replace it.  It is easy to replace and as cheap as chips

Griff

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Hi Micky The valve shouldn't drip try twisting the red **** a couple of times this can clean the seating very time the hot water tank gets hot the water pressure increases the valve then opens to release the pressure i fitted a hull fitting so when this happens it drips/run over board. When you re couple the shaft to the gear box first check the packing in the cutless seal doesn't need replacing around the shaft, if it does then check the lineament of the shaft by pushing the bolts through the coupling and the two faces are parell you my find you need to adjust the engine mountings to acheave this. John 

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1 hour ago, mikeyboy1966 said:

In order to remove the gearbox,is it simply a case of unbolting the coupling and sliding the propshaft back a bit?

 

I am conscious you have already told us about a shaft bearing which is mounted on a loose bearer and I think this is almost certainly a Plummer Block or thrust bearing.  In which case you need to loosen it so that you can slide the shaft.  How you do this depends on what type it is.  Show us a photo please!

You have a Vetus type flexible coupling and you are best to undo all the bolts and remove the whole unit.  When you re-fit the gearbox, you then slide the shaft forward so that the two coupling flanges butt up together.  You can then check alignment by loose fitting the bolts as Annv describes.  After this you need to check the engine is in line by inserting a feeler gauge between the flanges.  You are allowed 1 thou of play per inch of diameter, so if it is a 4 inch flange, it must not be more than 4 thou out of true.  Check the top and bottom alignment first and raise or lower the engine as necessary using shims under the mounting feet or by adjusting the nuts if you have SILENTBLOC mountings.  Then check the sideways alignment in the same way, and shift the engine sideways using a lever until it is in line.   While doing all this, constantly check that the bolts still pass freely through the holes in the flanges.  When you are happy, tighten down the engine mounting nuts.  Then check again, as tightening them can shift the alignment.

You can then slide the shaft back and re-fit the flexible coupling with new NYLOK nuts.  These nuts are for use once only. You cannot check the shaft alignment with the Vetus coupling in place as it is flexible.   With a GRP boat, you must ensure you only check the alignment when the boat is in the water.  Then don't forget to tighten up the Plummer Block when you have finished.

Phew!

Griff does not need to do this as he has universal joints on the prop shaft.  The Vetus coupling is not a U.J.  It is just there to take up vibration and the engine must still be properly lined up.

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Some pics of the repaired bearer,

as I said previously it was only “glassed “in very lightly,

just the end centimetre or so.

it wasn’t moving or rattling around ,prob1/2 to 1mm up/down not side/side

once I’ve had the gearbox out I’ll check the alignment etc.

my buddy does the  laser alignment on the navy ships amongst other things so I’ll get him to double check things once he’s back from Australia,

I did discuss with him about removing the bearer and casting a new one with Eppicast resin but he thought it a bit overkill:default_biggrin:

as you can see in the photos,it’s now properly secured with 1cm of GRP and 2x 10mm stainless through bolts for good measure.

91733F3A-3CB0-409B-B8C1-1EBE0DB119E9.jpeg

93CE9044-7400-43D8-BAAC-1E696FAF9877.jpeg

766861EF-7549-493D-AB95-51857340F565.jpeg

F91A726D-6C47-44E1-9B99-05F846A15CCB.jpeg

ACBD6487-099A-4C18-8782-535D0093C16C.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

Well done! That looks a good solid job. I haven't seen that type of bearing before, so God knows how you loosen its grip on the shaft.

There may be some sort of thread inside that cover, with lock tabs.

Maybe it splits in half?

side on photo

C77FA2FB-AF65-4D11-9028-BCCEAE5F2B54.jpeg

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Yes! 

Then I imagine that, in among the grease, you will find a threaded ring round the shaft, held tight by a lock tab.  Turn the shaft until you find where the lock tab is, and prise it open.  You can then loosen the ring until the shaft slides free. Sometimes they need knocking free, with a soft hammer on the forward side.

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3 minutes ago, mikeyboy1966 said:

any suggestions for parts suppliers,

Can't help with that!  It used to be Duffields in Norwich but they are gone now.  They developed the Lowline engine, as well as the Perkins MC42.

Best ask a boatyard, I suppose.

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2 hours ago, mikeyboy1966 said:

Some pics of the repaired bearer,

as I said previously it was only “glassed “in very lightly,

just the end centimetre or so.

it wasn’t moving or rattling around ,prob1/2 to 1mm up/down not side/side

once I’ve had the gearbox out I’ll check the alignment etc.

my buddy does the  laser alignment on the navy ships amongst other things so I’ll get him to double check things once he’s back from Australia,

I did discuss with him about removing the bearer and casting a new one with Eppicast resin but he thought it a bit overkill:default_biggrin:

as you can see in the photos,it’s now properly secured with 1cm of GRP and 2x 10mm stainless through bolts for good measure.

91733F3A-3CB0-409B-B8C1-1EBE0DB119E9.jpeg

93CE9044-7400-43D8-BAAC-1E696FAF9877.jpeg

766861EF-7549-493D-AB95-51857340F565.jpeg

F91A726D-6C47-44E1-9B99-05F846A15CCB.jpeg

ACBD6487-099A-4C18-8782-535D0093C16C.jpeg

Do I spy a loose nut in photo #2 ?

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Back on the prv thing, does it have an expansion tank on the hot water system? If no it will spit water out everytime it gets hot, if yes the pressure on the expasion tank needs sorting.

It's not that uncommon for a prv valve to be fine until some idiot that can't help fiddling with their k nob gives it a twiddle and then drip forever more which is usually down to crud or corrosion in the valve, not suggesting you are a serial k nob fiddler of course.

PS You can get treatment for a drippy k nob.

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9 minutes ago, Smoggy said:

Back on the prv thing, does it have an expansion tank on the hot water system? If no it will spit water out everytime it gets hot, if yes the pressure on the expasion tank needs sorting.

It's not that uncommon for a prv valve to be fine until some idiot that can't help fiddling with their k nob gives it a twiddle and then drip forever more which is usually down to crud or corrosion in the valve, not suggesting you are a serial k nob fiddler of course.

PS You can get treatment for a drippy k nob.

I’ve not come across any expansion vessel,

that would make sense.

I think,in the short term I will route the pressure relief into the shower drain circuit,I can sort the valve and upgrade in the winter when it’s drained down..

I want to concentrate on the engine first.

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