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Swordfish

Antifoul ??

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A question to those of you with " Sterndrive " boats. Do you use any form of antifoul on the actual drive leg ? My drive was totally re-sprayed last winter, and now after the sumer in the river it looks terrible, and it has been very difficult to clean.

post-1207-13671387031_thumb.jpg

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I'd never leave it without antifoul.

I always use three coats of Trilux 33, bl**dy expensive, but at least you don't use much on a leg.

post-669-136713870324_thumb.jpg

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I'm quite sure you know Paul, but just in case don't use any Cupro based stuff on it. :grin:

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Yes David, that is why it is always suggested to leave a gap between the hull antifoul and metal fittings such as outdrives. I have another drive to fit to the boat ( different gear ratio ) so I would like to keep it clean.

I have just looked at the spec. on Trilux 33, it seems to be the right paint for a sterndrive.

Regards, Paul

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I have just looked at the spec. on Trilux 33, it seems to be the right paint for a sterndrive.

and is one of the few that is.

I also use it as the main antifoul for the hull (in black) which is why I don't need to leave the gap.

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Hi Strowager,

I plan to strip all my existing antifoul completely, did you use a primer on the gel coat before application of the Trilux 33 ? I gather that because Trilux does not contain copper, it is non conductive.

Paul

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Yes, on the hull I used Teamac Metaclor underwater primer http://www.teamac.co.uk/primers-and-und ... er-primer/ which I got from Aquafax at Hoveton. It's much cheaper than the equivalent International product, and yet has a good reputation amongst commercial marine users.

On the leg (and shield) I stripped to the bare aluminium and primed with three coats of International "Interprotect" epoxy primer. It's two pack, so goes off chemically like **** to a blanket.

You have to be careful with the overcoating times, there are maximums before which time the topcoats should go on to be able to adhere before they go off fully.

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Yes, on the hull I used Teamac Metaclor underwater primer http://www.teamac.co.uk/primers-and-und ... er-primer/ which I got from Aquafax at Hoveton. It's much cheaper than the equivalent International product, and yet has a good reputation amongst commercial marine users.

On the leg (and shield) I stripped to the bare aluminium and primed with three coats of International "Interprotect" epoxy primer. It's two pack, so goes off chemically like **** to a blanket.

You have to be careful with the overcoating times, there are maximums before which time the topcoats should go on to be able to adhere before they go off fully.

Thanks a lot for the info, last year I used a two pack epoxy primer from Marine and Industrial for my drive, it was specially for aluminum. I now have another drive to prepare before fitting to the boat. It's good to keep busy over the winter !

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We had both legs off Serenity last winter. We descaled with acid, then mechanically abraded so all the loose flaky paint was removed but left the good stuff on them. We (the royal "we" as Sue actually did it all!) then gave two coats of Interprotect then three coats of Trilux. Hopefully that will do for a couple of years!

post-264-136713870676_thumb.jpg

post-264-136713870696_thumb.jpg

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I used VC prop-o-drev primer and then Trilux 33 in the aerosol cans, in hindsight I would have rathered the blue Trilux in the tin I think...

Before

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After

post-1010-136713871747_thumb.jpg

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Or string up some Justin Beaver CDs, no better yet, string up Justin Beaver.

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Or string up some Justin Beaver CDs, no better yet, string up Justin Beaver.

That wouldn't work David, as apparently he attracts birds!

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Only Crows & Magpies after a day or two Mark. :naughty:

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