RedRover Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Don't know if anyone else has this problem,when the engine is running it heats the water to a high temperature, if i moor for the night with Leccy i switch it on and it does not heat the water. Unless i take the cap off the top of the boiler tank and push the safety switch back in then it works ok. Is there a temp switch on the Calorifier to turn it up or down as it seems that it trips the switch. after running the engine for awhile.? Maybe the temp is too high which trips the switch. not a big problem just annoying i have to keep resetting it. not sure iv'e explained it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antares_9 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 You have explained it right Barry, it's simply that the engine water heat trips the thermal cut out on the immersion element, there is no adjustment as it's a safety device, I guess you could try replacing it as they cost bus fares, if that fails you can fit a restrictor valve in the engine hot water circuit so it doesn't get so hot. Another possibility which I have seen is in a twin coil calorifier where somebody has plumbed it to circulate both coils, in that case just disconnect one coil and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRover Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 You have explained it right Barry, it's simply that the engine water heat trips the thermal cut out on the immersion element, there is no adjustment as it's a safety device, I guess you could try replacing it as they cost bus fares, if that fails you can fit a restrictor valve in the engine hot water circuit so it doesn't get so hot. Another possibility which I have seen is in a twin coil calorifier where somebody has plumbed it to circulate both coils, in that case just disconnect one coil and see if that helps. Hi,David do you mean replace the immersion coil (single in my case) or the thermal cut out.Does that not come with the coil as one piece? Is it just a case of unscrewing it and replace,i have'nt looked yet as its blerdy cold on the boat and iv'e put it to bed.But will look at it when it gets a bit warmer.Thanking you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antares_9 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Some cut outs are seperate Barry, some part of the element, depends on it's age and design, if it's combined with the thermostat probe then it's an easy job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel falcon Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Hi, thermo cutout is normally 90 to 95c ,you either have as said a faulty cutout,or...your engine stats stuck closed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Hi, thermo cutout is normally 90 to 95c ,you either have as said a faulty cutout,or...your engine stats stuck closed!! would have to agree there, if the engine isn't boiling up then the stat/thermal cut out on immersion must be duff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antares_9 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 It is worth pointing out that a diesel cooling system can run close to if not at 90 degrees when run for long periods, so there can be an issue as Barry describes with no actual fault with the cut out or the motor cooling system per se, that's why I sugggested the possibility of a restrictor, though I agree, in the final analysis it is most likely the trip. I did actually have to fit a restrictor once when all else failed however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRover Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for your comments one and all,i'll look at the cutout switch first.as the engine does not appear to overheat as per the gauge which holds around 80C when run for awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRover Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Some cut outs are seperate Barry, some part of the element, depends on it's age and design, if it's combined with the thermostat probe then it's an easy job. The cutout and element are only 4 years old,David. I expect its gone pffft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I have a problem with my Calorifier in that it dosn't heat up that much, I don't have an immersion fitted, just the bog standard set up, the temp gauge shows 80deg normally but the water only gets hand warm, anyone got a clue why??? the only thing I can think of is the header tank needs topping up or it has an airlock but the trouble is I can't remember even if it has a header tank fitted, I just need a few clues as to what to check,, Regards Frank,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I should have also said that when I picked the boat up a few weeks back the water got really hot in under an hour,,,, Regards Frank,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 If you do not have a header tank/expansion bottle and your pipes to calorifier go higher than the engine then you may well struggle with air, otherwise once air has been eradicated from the take off/coil you should be problem free unless your water pump is on its last legs. if a good rev of the engine does not push the air through you may need to undo the return pipe and bleed the air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antares_9 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 If it's happened abruptly rather than gradually it sounds like an airlock Frank, you will have a header tank, either seperate or combined with the heat exchanger so just look for a radiator cap and you can check the level there, cold of course, they can sometimes be awkward to bleed through but perseverence and sometimes even fitting a bleed screw on the outlet to the calorifier is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Thanks folks! I normally check everything but this time I totally forgot about the header tank, if it is an airlock and I remember correctly, one way to cure it is to leave the cap off and run the engine up to tempreture and that circulates the airlock out, a little trick I learnt when I used to fit rads,,, at this point I'll add if you don't know what your doing DON'T EVEN try this as you can get a nasty scold if it blows back, of course it may just need topping up, but I think i'll need to keep an eye on it in case I have a leak somewhere,,, Regards Frank,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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