Consumer unit/or fuse box

[Guest]

were are looking at buying one of the above for saftey of Curlew

with having a number of 240v plug sockets we are going to be fitting a charger and when hucking upto shore power we want the charge to come on its own.

so need some help on what would be the best and where to get it from?

Jonny

[jimbo]

Jonny "Inca" has a Sterling charger fitted which like you say comes on as soon as the shoreline plug is inserted..

The female socket on your boat will need to be connected to a consumer unit the charger then being fed from one of the trips. I think my consumer unit only has 2 trips and a main one . The other one supplies the immersion heater in the calorifier.

[Guest]

Hi Jim

we do have calorifier but only gets heated from the engine.

two not that post don't have a sterling charger

[jimbo]

When you do get your electrics fitted Jonny you may find a blanking plate on your Calorifier that you can replace with an emersion heater element ( Not expensive either really) Then you get hot water while the mains is plugged in without running the engine

[Guest]

( Not expensive either really) Then you get hot water while the mains is plugged in without running the engine

your perswading us :-D

[Antares_9]

Hi Jonny, if you're starting from scratch it is simpler to get an all in one marine unit, battery charger and 240v distribution all in one unit, saves time and needs a lot less seting up.

[Guest]

Hi Jonny, if you're starting from scratch it is simpler to get an all in one marine unit, battery charger and 240v distribution all in one unit, saves time and needs a lot less setting up.

Hi David this is the way the previous owner had installed it

16amp socket mounted in the stern well from the a wire running into the rear cabin it has a 240v plug on the end. just below that a 240v plug socket which when plug in gives power to the other sockets onboard.

now the connection isn't a permanent connection in two pieces would it be best just sticking a consumer unit or fuse box there and connecting it up.

as i don't think there that expensive or am i wrong. it was just an idea of mine as to make Curlew a little bit safer incase or a short of something major whent wrong just to be on the safe side

[Guest]

When you do get your electrics fitted Jonny you may find a blanking plate on your Calorifier that you can replace with an emersion heater element ( Not expensive either really) Then you get hot water while the mains is plugged in without running the engine

Danny as you have had this done to Inca what was the cost if you don't mind me asking did you need to change or add a thermostat?

David any answer to my last post when to bed soon after as i was dropping off

[Guest Hank]

I recently started the 240 on evenstar

you need a 240v inlet (female i.e. you cant see the pins) mine was £6 from go outdoors

coonect that with some 2.5 mm flex to a consumer unit mine was £24 from B&Q they usually come with just a master on/off switch so you will need a mcb (circuit breaker) rated at 13 amp for just normal electrics on the boat my unit is an MK make so the breaker was £8

you can hook up your battery charger direct to the mains (after the breaker) or fit a smaller (5amp) breaker just for the charger

note if you wire in your charger it must be a type which automatically shuts off when the battery is charged or you will damage the battery.

[Guest]

note if you wire in your charger it must be a type which automatically shuts off when the battery is charged or you will damage the battery.

itis :-D :-D

[Guest]

Hank, I think you will find you need a male inlet as the live power lead from the supply will

ahhh yes dint spot that Pete might be an to change them around Hank

[Guest]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-2-way-Consumer-Unit-Fuse-Board-with-MCBs_W0QQitemZ250263234157QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250263234157&_trkparms=72%3A12|39%3A1|65%3A12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

would this be ok for what were after ??

[kfurbank]

Jonny,

The unit on ebay does not contain an RCD, the bit that protects you from getting a fatal shock, it contains MCBs, these are resettable fuses effectively, but will only trip when the current rating has been exceeded. Electricty and humans do not mix, electricity in water based environments and humans even less so. I would strongly urge you to seek professional advice on checking your existing setup and any changes you plan on making.

Current government legislation now prohibits the home diyer from making changes to their own household electrics, beyond a simple change of faulty socket or light switch. Any additions and new installaions have to be performed by a suitably qualified person and certified. The BSS is sadly lacking on it's definitions and requirements for cabling onboard a boat.

As an example, you should consider the use of sacrificial anodes on the hull to protect any metals parts of the boat submersed in water. If the shorepower you plug into is not properly earthed and other boats around you have an earth leakage fault or faulty setup, by plugging into the same shorepower your boat may well provide the path to earth via your submersed metal parts, which will start to dissolve over a period of time. An anode is made of softer material and will dissolve before any important parts, rudder, prop etc. Anodes have to be the right type, depending on what type of metal they are meant to be protecting. They are a lot more important on metal hull boats, where the hull itself can be in danger, but even on grp boats they are important if your prop is directly connected to the engine and gearbox which will normally be earthed.

There are a lot of things to consider and for your own, and others safety, electricity is on area where you really need suitably qualified advice.

If you really want to continue down the diy route, then at least seriously consider David's suggestion of an all in one charger, rcd and consumer unit. Most of the things that can seriuosly go wrong in a diy setup will have been covered.

edit to add there has already been some potentially lethal advice given on this thread and advice that wouldn't stand up to scutiny in household wiring, let alone a boat setup. I am no expert on current legislation, but did do the 15th edition electrical regs, quite some years ago, but am not current on latest requirements.

Keith

[Guest]

If you really want to continue down the diy route, then at least seriously consider David's suggestion of an all in one charger, rcd and consumer unit. Most of the things that can seriously go wrong in a diy setup will have been covered.

anybody know which is the right one you both are talking about on ebay could you please find a couple idealy cheap prices please as i don't know what iam looking for.

edit to add there has already been some potentially lethal advice given on this thread and advice that wouldn't stand up to scrutiny in household wiring, let alone a boat setup. I am no expert on current legislation, but did do the 15th edition electrical regs, quite some years ago, but am not current on latest requirements.

from what i have seen and when we baught Curlew as the bloke was getting on a bit he got everything done professional

[Antares_9]

Here's a link to the All in One 240v distribution combined battery charger Jonny, it's available in 10, 20, 30 & 40amp charging power and also allows one take off for an immersion element and one for ring main.

http://www.reya.com/English/Catalogue/batterychargers.pdf

[Guest]

I perchased a 240v auto shut off charger off ebay?

thats why i was asking about a consumer unit or fuse box for the charger and shore power.

Here's a link to the All in One 240v distribution combined battery charger

how much were those

[kfurbank]

Jonny,

I think it's fair to say that an all in one is going to be the more expensive route generally, although I don't know exact prices, but the far safer route for a diyer. If you are going down the route of separate components, then it will be cheaper, but you do need professional advice and installation.

Keith

[Antares_9]

They range from £220 for the 10a to just shy of £400 for the 40a Jonny, not cheap but not a lot more than a quality charger of the same rating, and as Keith has intimated, they are a sure safe route for the DIYer starting from scratch, they really are fit and forget.

[Guest]

for that price i think we will may just go with the consumer unit as the best option for us aswell as cost. but i think maybe looking into it a bit more tho

[Antares_9]

Please Jonny, humour me, don't use a consumer unit without residual current protection, I do not wish to appear melodramatic but I'm a bit busy to be attending funerals at the moment.

[Guest Hank]

Hank, I think you will find you need a male inlet as the live power lead from the supply will have the femail plug on it so you cant touch the pins.

The boat inlet will be dead when its unplugged and exposed.

I stand corrected the pins should be visible on the inlet on the boat (male) as Pete says

While an RCD is very desirable it is not a must have. You must bear in mind that the shore power posts round the broads already have one built in. Obviously if you intend to regularly plug into a straight 240v supply then the RCD becomes more important (they cost £50 or so for MK)

As for doing your own electrics it should only be attempted if you are confident and competent with what you intend to do. As you are in effect only fitting a consumer unit and inlet this is quite within the abilities of the average DIY'er there are plenty of websites showing how to do it and if all else fails the consumer unit usually comes with pretty specific instructions. If you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself then I'm sure if you buy the bits you must know a sparks who can wire up for you.

As for the charger while people are recommending £200+ units/chargers I for one can't afford that sort of money and am quite happy to fit a cheap & cheerful charger onto my new consumer unit once I have bought the appropriate RCD.

[kfurbank]

Hank,

RCDs like any other piece of kit can and do fail, therefore best to rely on the one in your boat with known history, than the shorepower post, that you hope has been tested regulerly!!! Incidently it is now illegal for the average DIYer to change their own consumer unit at home, whilst it may not be illegal for the aberage DIYer to fit their own consumer unit to a boat, I would strongly suggest professional help and advice.

I think I have said it as many times as I can, so shall leave it at that.

Keith

[jimbo]

Hi Jonny, An element for your Calorifier will only cost about £25 So no big expense for the hot water side of your project

[Guest]

Hi Jonny, An element for your Calorifier will only cost about £25 So no big expense for the hot water side of your project

Jim i think i would need paint by numbers to understand what to do

Please Jonny, humour me, don't use a consumer unit without residual current protection, I do not wish to appear melodramatic but I'm a bit busy to be attending funerals at the moment

Iam totally lost at this point i was hopeing for some simple advice for a simple minded person i dint go to NASA for an education you know :-D

I was hoping something simple to install not to costly and effective for what we need but it looks like at this rate we will keep it the way it is we will have to see

HUGH HUGH BIG BLACK CLOUD COMING OVER US RITE NOW RAIN RAIN RAIN

[Guest]

Jonny,

I'd say that if you're planning on keeping it the way it is, it might be worth buying a plug in RCD

whats one of these when its at home JZ?