Mowjo Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Has anyone here fitted their own heating and if so is it an easy job, here's the problem my son in laws boat was fitted with heating, but we think it was removed just before he bought the boat, all the heater hose is still there and looks new, it also looks like the live and neutral feed are still in place, plus the exhaust outlet, some fuel lines and tank fittings, he wants to replace it with a new unit, the idea is fit new copper fuel lines as I'm not sure if the existing have been cut, and re-fit the heater unit where it was before, looking at my Eber book it looks pretty straight forward as everything looks like it on a loom, and you just need to connect a live and neutral to the heater fuse box, trouble is it looks too simple to me, anyone got any advice please,, Frank,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 HI Frank yes it is very straight forward fitting a D2/4 eber the only real fiddly bit is connecting the copper tube from the off tap to the heater inlet as the said inlet has a flared nipple that needs carefully filing down as to fit the 4mm olive over Don't cut the inlet down as it will not leave enough tube to fit the fitting and also fit all the wiring through any bulkheads before you attach the plugs/sockets and you also need to lag the S/S exhaust with exhaust wrap hope this helps Regards Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks Craig! it's one of those jobs that look easy but your never sure until you start it and end up in trouble, Frank,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranworthbreeze Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hi Frank, Do you know what DC voltage was supplying the heating, is it 12 volts or 24 volts. My advice would if you are working on the pipes I would be inclined to insulate them to cut down any losses of heat on the pipe runs. The pipe connections tend to work loose so check on those jubilee clips. The lagging that we have used to insulate our pipes was on rolls, a bit like the old fashioned water pipe lagging. we fixed this in place with stainless clips. I got our materials from Brian Ward's but you should be able to get them from most chandlers. Regards Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hi Alan! should have said it's 12v, I know exactly what you mean about lagging the pipes, My Hampton 25 was fitted with a new Eber D4 just before we bought it, it's fitted at the front of the boat in the bow cupboard, there's a main outlet about 3ft from the unit in the main cabin, one in the toilet about 8ft away and one in the back cabin about 12ft away, the main cabin is nice and hot, but the toilet and back cabin are barely warm, I did think lagging them would help but it's such a pain getting to them behind wall and cupboards I can't be bothered, I did think of just lagging the bits I can get to but I'm not sure if it would help,, Regards Frank,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boaters Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Sounds like you have most of the kit in place ,so only need the heater and controls.i fitted one from scratch sometime back and it was not to bad ,just make sure you come direct from the battery with a really thick cable to the fuse this will give the best chance of a first time start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks Roy! I was thinking something like 6mm cable same as my fridge,, I'm a bit confused with the fuel lines though! Craig mentions copper fuel lines and sons boat is run in Copper, the Eber site also says use hard black plastic, any clues, Frank,,,, Never mind just checked the Eber site again and it says in small letters use metal pipes,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Just found this Handy site For Ebers Information,, http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Eberspacher_Intro_1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boaters Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Frank,if I remember right the tank run was copper but I recall some plastic with brass ferrules at the ends but this' may have changed with the BSS ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 plastic will fail the BSS but is what the manufacturer supplies. The fuel pump if remote from the the heater should be no more than 1.5m from the fuel supply, but the pump can push fuel up to 10m to the unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowjo Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Thanks for the advice folks! all very helpful,,,, Frank,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddfellow Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 You must also have an accessible and properly labelled fuel stop cock for the unit. This should be BEFORE the fuel pump. Be careful over the exhaust. It must be lagged and there are different size bores of exhaust hose too. So, if there's a fitting already on the hull, make sure it's the same size as the new unit to be fitted before you go too far. The fuel connection to the heater can be using ISO rated rubber hose as well as copper/brass fittings, so don't worry too much about flared ends and so on. So long as the pipework conforms to BSS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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