Cost of Quay Heading

[Raymondu]

Can anyone give me a rough estimate of how much per foot a brand new quay heading would be, including all the dredging, etc?

[ranworthbreeze]

I do not know what a company would charge you , but green oak boards 1.5 inch x 8 inch would cost you around £2.50 per foot.

Here are a couple of links to contractors:-

http://www.amispiling.co.uk/

http://www.gtrochester.co.uk/

Regards

Alan

[SPEEDTRIPLE]

I did hear last year that when lined the banks of the Chet, the boards used were called Keratin (or something like that) which is supposed to be extremely durable, and very expensive. I`ve neve heard of it, but does anybody else know anything?.

[littlesprite]

Keratin is a fibrous protein found in living things, it is one of the main building blocks of skin, hair, nails, hooves, horn, and is very difficult to dissolve.

I believe it is used to preserve archaeological wooden finds by pressure injection of the damp wood with a liquid keratin, if it works on that I suppose it's possible someone has carried the process over as a preservative for new wood though it would be very expensive.  

[C.Ricko]

depends on what you are dredging, is it a river or a dyke?

how deep is the water and what depth do you need?

Quay  heading with wailing and capping (no deck) should cost about £150 - £200 per metre 

including tie rods for a off river dyke..

obviously depending on access etc etc...

[Guest]

......Quay  heading with wailing and capping (no deck) should cost about £150 - £200 per metre....

 

That certainly ties in with what I paid for mine about 4 years ago.

 

£800 for 4 metres of heading, with 1 metre wide walkway.

[Oddfellow]

Dredging requires notice and permission  from the Environment Agency these days above certain levels. Quay Heading replacement is permissible up to a certain distance too.

 

The best advise is do nothing until you have checked out the legals on this. The dredging is a new law.

[Hockham Admiral]

Who did yours for you, Andy? It looks pretty good.  :clap

[Oddfellow]

Who did yours for you, Andy? It looks pretty good.  :clap

Should have gone to specsavers!

 

Our quay heading is hardly in the greatest condition you must be thinking of the new quay heading outside the bungalow next to us which our landlord ensured looked ok for his holiday makers!

[Hockham Admiral]

Should have gone to specsavers!

 

Our quay heading is hardly in the greatest condition you must be thinking of the new quay heading outside the bungalow next to us which our landlord ensured looked ok for his holiday makers!

Sorreeeeeeeeee!  :cry

[Raymondu]

Thanks very one for your comments. Much appreciated.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[riverman]

As more of the contractors on the river do there sums and realise that timber has increased in price massively, prices are getting more job specific. You should be looking at a minimum of £135 per meter, that does not include back filling, and if it is any less, then theres a fair chance you'll be getting an inferior job.

 

Price is mostly dependant on mobilisation cost and the length and quality of the timbers used.

 

 

Wood isnt what it used to be, with many of the chemicals that preserved it removed and the pressure treatment not getting adequate penetration the lifespan is a lot shorter than it once was. contrary to what some contractors may tell you, they all use scandinavian timber. However some have started using red wood which does seem to be of a higher quality.

 

Steel is very expensive, and galvanised steel even more so but it does offer a considerably longer lifespan and better residual value to the plot or property. In the long run it probably represents better value for money these days.

 

Plastic is horrible nasty dreadful stuff and good luck finding a contractor who wants to put it in.

 

Alder pole piling doesnt represent very good value initially because of its short lifespan and because of how difficult it is to souurce in any kind of quantites, however i think it looks quite attractive and when combined with soft engineering (planting reeds) can be a good long term solution, as long as you dont have a boat you want to moor up.

 

Basically, make sure you get lots of quotes and be aware of what you want from the outset.

Most of all remember, anyone can talk a good job, so go and see some of there work for yourself.

[Baitrunner]

I also heard, but don't think I have ever seen it, that fitting the boards horizontally rather than vertically is best. As they rot ( and I think it is the top that goes first as it gets wet and dry ) you can replace a rotten length. If it's fitted vertical half of it might still be in good nick.

Don't quote me on this as it was just something I heard.

[riverman]

That is indeed true. Known as 'river board' quayheading, lots of it around Repps, Potter, Thurne way.

Made up of traditional vertical quayheading set well below the waterline so it doesnt rot, and then interspaced with vertical steel 'king piles'. the 'king piles' are essentially 'I section' and used to attach tie rods too and allow large hardwood boards to slide and be fastened inbetween. The hardwood takes all the damage from being wet to dry to wet.

 

If any of that makes sense. Brilliant idea, very awkward to work on at high water, probably far too expensive to put in as new.

[C.Ricko]

good method for making holes in boats too!

glad it all went from the Ant..