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Broad Ambition - TLC Time Again


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Hi mate. 

 

I have a 6 inch diameter 12v aluminum bladed ambient fan. It came from an American RV it works brilliantly , hot or warm air is not required to demist the inside windscreen.

Simple physics tells us that. The only reason to use warm or hot air is that warm air  has the ability to contain more moisture and such works more quickly. However when removed the said screen then immediately mists over. Using cold or rather ambient air it doesn’t. SIMPLES...

 

it works it’s as simple as that. End of, it works. 

I get up I use the blade to remove excess moisture then put fan on and bugger off to have breakfast. By the time I want to leave it’s clear and dry. Works when moving and raining too, both Easter and autumn cruising so yes it will work. 

 

M

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On 14/01/2019 at 20:22, KaptinKev said:

You do seem to have a lot of issues with your boats that you own, and at the end of the day, it does make your wallet a lot lighter. I think the lesson of today is that if you can afford it and you are not too knowledgeable about boats, then you keep the marine engineers employed.

If you are on a budget, learn your boating upkeep skills well!

Almost all the things that have been done on boats I could have done or could have done with helpful friends such as we already have in the past on Independence and do on Broad Ambition.  Sometimes though it is nice to let someone else do it all, hoping that being professional and charging for such,  the finish will be as good as one can get, the work done to a very high standard and everything 'ready to go'.  Sadly this is not always the case.

A good example is asking to re-wire three batteries to run only domestic 12v systems and introduce a fourth battery to be used to start the engine. Having paid for this to have been completed I had the install inspected by a second marine engineer who has reported back that the install appears sound in so far as the wiring, but that the new cranking battery is not isolated from the domestic batteries so if you drain them down, you will also drain the new cranking battery.  So, currently I am not only making my wallet lighter, but at the same time not having things completed correctly.

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1 hour ago, LondonRascal said:

Almost all the things that have been done on boats I could have done or could have done with helpful friends such as we already have in the past on Independence and do on Broad Ambition.  Sometimes though it is nice to let someone else do it all, hoping that being professional and charging for such,  the finish will be as good as one can get, the work done to a very high standard and everything 'ready to go'.  Sadly this is not always the case.

A good example is asking to re-wire three batteries to run only domestic 12v systems and introduce a fourth battery to be used to start the engine. Having paid for this to have been completed I had the install inspected by a second marine engineer who has reported back that the install appears sound in so far as the wiring, but that the new cranking battery is not isolated from the domestic batteries so if you drain them down, you will also drain the new cranking battery.  So, currently I am not only making my wallet lighter, but at the same time not having things completed correctly.

Hopefully, when informed of the problem, said professional will right the wrongs, surely.

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What error? I thought that was the whole point of splitters? How can you get it wrong? Input from the alternator, two outputs - one to the domestic bank, one to the starter battery. Or is that too simplistic? Seems to work on my install that way.

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The diode splitter has 3 terminals and it is easy to connect the cables wrongly, so that both batteries will get a charge but they remain connected when you stop the engine. You may not believe me, but it is a common error.

I have even seen a hire fleet base where about 25 of their older boats were on diode splitters and they were all connectedly wrongly, so that all their batteries remained connected at all times. They didn't believe me either, until I proved it!

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2 hours ago, Vaughan said:

The diode splitter has 3 terminals and it is easy to connect the cables wrongly, so that both batteries will get a charge but they remain connected when you stop the engine. You may not believe me, but it is a common error.

 

I look forward to your diagram and explanation of how it has been done, and how it should be!

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This thread has already gone off at a tangent so I don't want to take up more space on what is meant to be a topic concerning Broad Ambition, but suffice to say it is going to be put right. I am not going to be drawn into more but the people in question are being very helpful and apologetic and that can make all the difference when things are acknowledged and a plan of action to put them right is agreed on which has been.

It is a shame I am not having as much luck with the heater from Independence where I am now between no less than three companies none of whom wish to take all responsibility as to who did not do their job properly.  Effectively I have a heater with a 36 month warranty that might not be valid because the person who installed it did not complete the certificate of install correctly which is not my fault. Two days of issues and I get over that,  only to now hit a new wall on Friday being if it is found the heater has been run for more than 1,200hrs and it has not been serviced by an approved installer or agent in that period then the warranty is void. Thing is, nowhere in any paperwork I hold (nor have been verbally told) at the time I bought it is there any mention of such a clause. 

Patience with this is fast running out especially now we are into some pretty cold weather and it has been away from he boat for over a week.

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47 minutes ago, LondonRascal said:

 Two days of issues and I get over that,  only to now hit a new wall on Friday being if it is found the heater has been run for more than 1,200hrs and it has not been serviced by an approved installer or agent in that period then the warranty is void. Thing is, nowhere in any paperwork I hold (nor have been verbally told) at the time I bought it is there any mention of such a clause. 

Do you know a good solicitor?

Sarcasm aside, I thought that with the friends you know that could look after boats blind folded, the problems you have with your boats would not ever be much of a problem!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good answer Polly :default_biggrin:

We don't do 'Seasonal' varnishing - thank goodness.  Nope, what I am referring to is a new mast for 'B.A'  The chunky planks in the photo are genuine Teak, the thinner longer planks is our 'No name' hardwood both next to 'B.A's current mast and both up here at home with me.  I took them round to the Wizards workshop last week and we have at last made a start. That is we have designed and drawn out full size the new mast that will be.  Thing is doh ball here forgot to photo the drawings but will rectify that one during the next session along with progress

Griff

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Polly, I think its just to keep me on the hop with the model, as soon as I think I have a part down pat, Griff changes it .... Just Joking Griff. - I haven't made the mast yet, I have been waiting until you finish the new one.

I am sure it will look every bit as good as the old one - probably better.

Are you going to go for the laminated look, alternating layers of teak and no name wood.

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Polly, I think its just to keep me on the hop with the model,

The same thought did cross my mind as it does whenever we do an upgrade to 'B.A' that changes her outside appearance. The spine, yardarms and teardrop flat top will all be teak.  The spine will have three elongated holes with rounded edges in it, this will decrease the top weight.  The yardarms will be thinner and longer raked aft slightly again reducing top weight.  The 'No Name' timber will be fwd and aft capping battens wider than the spine fixed top to bottom. These will both add strength.  The aft capping batten will be permanently fixed in place.  The fwd one will be removable fastened with screws in cups.  This is where the cables will run for the anchor light and fwd steaming light along with a coax for the tv aerial leading to a small inconspicuous fixed bracket on top of the teardrop adjacent to the anchor light.

We are changing the mast as over the years it has become apparent that it is way to  top heavy.  Some girly and senior crew struggle with it unless they stand up and get a good grip of it.  It has done its job but along with a lot of items onboard 'B.A' over the years we have come to realise that we can improve the look and function of the mast so a new one it will be.  We are all looking forward to the result, I'm also looking forward to working with quality hardwood - And of course marvelling over the Wizards wood butchery skills (Damn show off that he is)

Oh and BTW - If anyone wants a mast for their boat, then 'B.A's original one is going free.  You will need to purchase two nav lights as we are transferring them over along with the 4 x pin plug.  And yes as it is now around 14 years on the go, it could do with a rub down and re-varnishing,  You might consider cutting down the yardarms to reduce top weight, cut some holes in the spine etc - but be mindful of the cable in there

Griff

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3 hours ago, BroadAmbition said:

Understood.  The new mast will be exactly the same height at the present one but the yardarms will be longer, thinner, tapered and raked aft

Griff

Thought the Yardarms would be higher?

So you could drink earlier.

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Sigh - Re think on the height of the yardarms #3 coming up then!  Anyone else?

Btw a pair of forumites have come forward requesting the original mast be donated their way so the mast is now spoken for, which I'm glad about as it will continue to ply the Broads and be seen by many, although I might just find myself doing a few alterations to it on their behalf before I hand it over to make it more user friendly for their boat

Griff

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