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Broad Ambition - TLC Time Again


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  • 4 weeks later...

A gust of wind recently picked up one of our towel bar mats from the wheelhouse and deposited it over the side.  Not surprising as it was on a varnished surface and has always been problematical slipping around all over the shop.  It's nearly happened a few times before now, this time it succeeded and dissapeared before I could rescue it.

So, a replacement has arrived, this one is heavier with a non-slip backed rubber surface so shouldn't happen again.

Think I could do with ordering another pair of em

Griff

BA NBN 1209.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
5 hours ago, BroadAmbition said:

Thats me done the winterising thing for this winter onboard.  Took me all of five minutes

Griff

Hi Griff, do you drain the water tanks (fresh water / hot water) and pipework as well as switch on the frost heater(s)?

How many heaters do you have installed and are they just positioned around the engine? or do they protect other areas of the boat as well?

I'm taking Karizma out of the water this winter (for the first time since we bought her two years ago), and i'm starting to put together my 'winterising' to do list !

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Hi Karizma,

No, all we do is turn off the fresh water pump to relieve pressure then open six taps and one shower outlet and leave them open.  Apart from around 1:5m of copper pipe around the calorifier and the expansion tank in the engine bay, the remainder of the water pipes are of the plastic variety. The only time we drain down the fresh water system including the tanks is every two years when we sterilise the whole system

We have two 240v 100w tube heaters within the engine bay, they protect the engine, raw water inlet pipes, raw water filters, 2 x f/w tanks, calorifier, expansion tank and associated plumbing.  The tube heaters are hard wired via a thermostat set to +2c

The rest of 'B.A' is left to her own devices apart from all internal doors left open, drawers pulled out, curtains drawn shut and cabin side windows closed.  We used to leave them open but realised that doing so allowed the damp atmosphere and condensation that sometimes forms in the wetshed - inboard.  The tube heaters 'Frost Guard' are turned on late October through to April.  Six water trap tubs are distributed throughout.  Two auto sensing bilge pumps are switched off, two more via float switches are left on.  Fridge door wedged open.  The onboard alarm system is activated as per the norm.  This sends us a txt if an intruder is onboard, it also lets us know if we lose shore power too

Most of the above is done during the summertime too apart from frost guards, water traps, cabin side windows left open

Hope this helps,

Griff

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Thanks for the details Griff.

Karizma also has 2 tube heaters (not sure what wattage) in the engine bay, on a thermostatically activated 240v socket set at +2c, so thats about the same as yours. Again most of the 15mm pipework is plastic , but my calorifier is right up the front in the bow of the boat, so a little less protected than items in the engine bay.

........ and she's got a 'plastic' hull, so a little less protection than your 'woodie' !

Gives me some things to think about for sure ..... Cheers

Steve

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Leaving the taps open allows for some expansion in the system, water is strange in that it is the only thing that expands as it starts to freeze, I think it's to do with the way the atoms align as they crystalise (also why ice floats in water), it won't cause any air locks as it's an open ended pumped system so the air is just pushed out when the pump is powered back up, unlike a closed recirculating loop like a calorifier circuit.

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On 31/10/2022 at 19:51, BroadAmbition said:

Hi Karizma,

No, all we do is turn off the fresh water pump to relieve pressure then open six taps and one shower outlet and leave them open.  Apart from around 1:5m of copper pipe around the calorifier and the expansion tank in the engine bay, the remainder of the water pipes are of the plastic variety. The only time we drain down the fresh water system including the tanks is every two years when we sterilise the whole system

We have two 240v 100w tube heaters within the engine bay, they protect the engine, raw water inlet pipes, raw water filters, 2 x f/w tanks, calorifier, expansion tank and associated plumbing.  The tube heaters are hard wired via a thermostat set to +2c

The rest of 'B.A' is left to her own devices apart from all internal doors left open, drawers pulled out, curtains drawn shut and cabin side windows closed.  We used to leave them open but realised that doing so allowed the damp atmosphere and condensation that sometimes forms in the wetshed - inboard.  The tube heaters 'Frost Guard' are turned on late October through to April.  Six water trap tubs are distributed throughout.  Two auto sensing bilge pumps are switched off, two more via float switches are left on.  Fridge door wedged open.  The onboard alarm system is activated as per the norm.  This sends us a txt if an intruder is onboard, it also lets us know if we lose shore power too

Most of the above is done during the summertime too apart from frost guards, water traps, cabin side windows left open

Hope this helps,

Griff

Hi Griff

We 'winterise' in a similar manner. We have 3 tubular heaters all linked to a thermostat plug that I have switching on if the temperature drops to 3 degrees C. One is by the engine which is amidships, one in the heads and one in the main saloon with seating backrests off, exposing the cold water tank which is under the starboard deck. Water pump is off with taps open and I also open the shower mixer and disconnect the shower head hose so that the mixer valve drains into the shower tray.

As you say, cupboards and fridge are left open. We also replace the raw water with antifreeze. Battery charger (intelligent type) is left on with bilge pump set  to auto. 

If the weather looks good in the winter and we fancy a few days cruising, we can recommission in a few minutes and it just costs a few litres of antifreeze when we leave.

This of course all depends on the marina shore power not tripping out, therefore I would be very interested to know the details of the equipment you have to notify you on your phone if this happens.

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It's an intruder alarm system.  It has zones that it scans.  It is activated / deactivated by a remote fob to arm and disarm.  It is 240v powered.  It has a sim card that send us a txt to notify us which zone has been triggered and also if it loses / or regains its 240v supply

Griff

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  • 8 months later...

That was a busy two short weekends.

The first visit had been booked in for ages.  I had agreed to lend Socrates' a hand on Broadland Grebe for the Sat / Sun over at Eastwood Whelpton for the two days.  I kept to this commitment and we achieved a fair amount

However previous to this between the four owners of 'B.A'  we had looked at the possibility of PAYING a professional for their help with a maintenance item onboard 'B.A'  The fwd and aft coach house roofs are well past their best and are in desperate need of a repaint, also the dressing strips were suffering. especially one of em which gets constantly dripped on whilst in t wetshed when its raining outside 'Wet' being an apt description.  My social and work diaries were making it increasingly difficult to find a whole week off to do it mysen, not to mention loss of earnings.  We agreed a price with a marine painter - Bruce.  This was on condition that we remove all the fittings / furniture and replaced them on completion.  That meant I had to take a workday off on the Friday.  It took me most of the day to achieve, then it was over to the Broadland holiday camp site Friday evening in Stalham opposite Richo's.   Why oh why have I not been here before?  My first time and we have had a berth in t wetshed since 2007 - We missed a trick there.   Good value, good food and beer and a good atmosphere, I will visit again - Recommended

During the Friday the BSS examiner came calling, on completion of his inspection there were four advisory items that needed our attention

I departed for Home Sunday early evening, Bruce having made a good start flatting off, repairing. filling etc. I was mightily impressed just how flat and smooth he had got the surfaces on his first day

Second weekend visit - I again took the Friday off work as I was due on a team competition clay shoot with Griffs Growlers on the Sunday so I had to leave Saturday finished or not.  Thursday night - The painted roofs looked A-MAZE-ING, I thought they were complete but no, Bruce informed me that one last and third topcoat had to be applied on the Friday.

I got set to and stripped the Stbd cant rail back to bare wood along with other items to attend to, namely sorting the rats nest of wiring under the locker shelf and adding a second copper saddle to the gas pipe.

Saturday morning - Disaster the wetshed roof had leaked rainwater during the nights monsoon rainstorm onto the Fwd coach house roof before it had fully cured.  When Bruce came calling later on he explained it would need flatting back and repainting again. That cost us £50:00  straight off for more paint, plus his labour.  I got the furniture back on the Aft roof and some of it back on the Fwd roof.  I have fitted new dressing strips, cut to size by our Wizard back in Donny out of genuine Burmese Teak.  I G4'd the backs twice with the faces having six coats of varnish.  I have fastened them down using s/steel raised countersink screws just five per strip instead of ten brass pins, applied  a small bead of clear CT1 to the underneath outside edges 

I left for home at 1900 Saturday evening

This week Bruce is painting, varnishing and fitting the remainder of items to the Fwd coach house roof

I have learnt so much about hand rollering / brushing from Bruce, some top tradesmen tips.  Doing it mysen I reckon I would have achieved 8/10ths to his finish beforehand, now I reckon I could achieve 9/10ths.  Its been an expensive exercise but well worth it

Bro' and crew are due onboard this coming Sunday and will be out for the week, they are gonna need sunglasses

We have now ordered a 50ft x 11ft 220gsm tarpaulin with fitted eyes to fit above 'B.A' in her berth.  This will be the third one, much stronger and hopefully rip proof - You live and learn, buy cheap, buy twice (Or three times in our case) can't have all that lovely new paintwork and varnish getting ruined again

Griff

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BA NBN 1291.jpg

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BA NBN 1294.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Fwd and Aft coach house roofs were completed Friday 21st July - We are proper impressed with them too, I'll get some better photo's when I'm next onboard.  Bruce the boat painter is now highly recommended

The Jack Powles staff had to be put back on. Bro' Howard did this yesterday (Photo) and has elected to move its position aft slightly from in front of the searchlight to between the horns and searchlight, this gives a bit more room when sitting on the fwd roof and is out of the way for night-navving if the search light is on

(Grendel - No need to alter the 'B.A' Model)BANBN1296.thumb.JPG.c9f4eba3efaacf2ea0bf88668f0e1b23.JPG

Griff

 

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Its never ending this.

Fender lanyards

The fender lanyards are suffering – These were replaced not that long ago, they were ready made up back and eye spliced. Purchased from a chandlers on line

Turns out the quality of the actual rope is somewhat questionable as they have been suffering and look a mess

Bro' Howard has purchased some quality proper rope and whipping twine from Nearest and Dearest last week whilst onboard

I received delivery yesterday early evening.  That gives me until Tuesday evening to cut to length 14 lanyards, then eye splice and whip 28 x times

(We are due to fly to Rhodes on Wednesday, remember to take Sun cream factor 100 and asbestos underwear)

No pressure then

One down, thirteen to go.  I applied a 'Common' whipping, I actually got eight done since the photo and will do the remaining six this evening after work

Then there is the Powels staff, moving its location aft - Fine, however due to the slope of the Fwd coach house roof, it is now higher than the windscreen and just doesn't look correct.  Shortening it by 2" will do it, the pennant will still clear the horns so avoid prematurely wearing it out, it'll have to be cut down to fit the s/steel fitting at the base - Bro' can do that one when he's next onboard for this years Wooden boat show at Beccles

Griff

 

BA NBN 1298.jpg

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Just a little hint for other members if you haven't got a hot knife like in Griff's photo :

The best way to cut polypropylene rope is with a junior hacksaw.  It is also the best way to get the rope off a propeller!  I always have one on board.

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