Jump to content

GrantS

Full Members
  • Posts

    148
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by GrantS

  1. I have a Jabsco Automatic Water Pump (Cleghorn Waring), which i fitted to my boat last year. Recently it has been pulsing when the taps in either the head or the galley are not fully open. Now, this could be just debris or a restriction somewhere, but i thought i would speak to Jabsco about this first.

    They have said that they are happy for me to remove the front of it to check for any debris / scale that may stuck inside it, but if the cause ends up being the pressure switch itself that is the problem, they informed me that this is not covered by their 3 year warranty.

    According to Jabsco, it is only the motor that is covered. The pressure switch is classed as a wear and tear part.

    This is misleading to any potential buyer, because on the box it came in, it says in big letters ' 3 Year Warranty'

    I will need to investigate the actual cause of this yet, but thought that i would advertise for 'JABSCO' the fact that the pressure switch on their water pumps are not covered by their attractive 3 year warranty.

    Also, should anyone need to telephone the company regarding any of their products you won't have to dial the 0870 7388001 Tel No.

    Here is the alternative one - 01462 480380 :mad:

  2. It wasn't that long ago that i asked the question regarding fuel prices to someone that owned a Marina, although it was actually petrol that i was asking about.

    The answer was 'because i can'

    Having a captive audience on the river makes it all too easy.

    What we really need, is somone like 'TESCO' to set up a fuel station on the broads serving both motor vehicles & motor boats. Oh and the superstore, so you can shop whilst you are there.

    Now there's a thought!

    Every little helps................

  3. Oh yes Ian, most definately...............

    I only had to wait a year for that.

    Gav, sorry to hear the bad news about your boat, that just unfair.

    Regarding going to sea, we will just have sea.........I mean see (sorry) :naughty:

  4. Here you are Barry.

    23 Mph on Breydon and only 3/4 throttle with the old remote. The new one going in soon, so will have full throttle available.

    Will re test when its fitted. :dance

    post-810-136713827882_thumb.jpg

  5. Hi all,

    Last year i replaced the Oil Filter on my CMD 1.7td engine with the Mercruiser one. Unfortunately, i threw it away and now have nothing to compare it with, DOH!

    Since owning this type of engine, i have learnt quite a bit about them. They are the Isuzu Circle L engine which were fitted to Vauxhall / Opel cars and are made in Poland.

    Now obviously Mercruiser had the engine Marinised and there are quite a few add ons that the Vauxhall engine did not have. Mercruiser also, (where they can), change things so that its not easy to find the automotive comparison. For example, the cooling thermostat is not the same as the vauxhall 1.7td one and in fact is the same as the one from a 1988 2.3 Isuzu trooper. Crafty buggers.......

    I will be changing the oil again soon and therfore will be needing another oil filter. The Mercruiser Marine oil filter is not an expensive item (around £15) where the automotive one will probably be around £5 - £7. So why bother you ask.

    Well, i am trying to build up a service parts list of as many non Marine priced parts as i can for this engine, as at the end of the day there are quite a few that have the Marine Price, but actually are NOT Marine Parts.

    The thermostat was a good example of this at less than 1/2 the cost & it was exactly the same part / material. This is an absolute rip off by the Brunswick corporation.

    I have been checking the net, and to be honest i am all googled out now, so i thought i would post this one here to see if anyone has any info for me.

    I did try and join the CMD 1.7td Forum (Yes there is one) but i couldn't sign up & get in for some reason.

    Regarding the Oil Filter though, i think this may be one of Mercruiser's herrings, as i don't think its the vauxhall / Isuzu 1.7td one. It looks like they may have modified it by fitting one from another Isuzu unit, just to throw people off the scent again.

    Does anybody know a friend of a friend of a friend etc that mayhave access to the bible of these engines so that people like me don't have to keep lining mercruiser's pockets. Oh, and Ive started a bit of a quest now.

    Many thanks

    Grant :pirate

  6. If the Led was flahing on & off, then i can only assume that the Relay was doing the same. The Transistor is switching the ground for the relay coil and is controlled via pin 14 of the IC through R3 (10k ohms). It may be worth checking the pins of the IC to make sure that it is locates the correct way around and that all the pins are located in the socket correctly. The pot should be ok, i can't see you causing a problem using a small screwdriver, unless you have physically damaged it, but i would have thought that could be seen. At the end of the day though, it only costs just over 5 quid, so if all is lost, just by another one.

  7. Inside your Cool Box is the Peltier Cooler, a Fan & a Switch Mode Power Supply.

    The Peltier Cooler is a thermoelectric device which basically can heat or cool depending on the polarity of the supply & can also generate a voltage with a temperature change as well. This is how some (not this one) can heat or cool just by reversing the polarity.

    The Fan is basically to create the air flow and the Switch Mode Power Supply is to provide the 12vdc via Mains 240vac input.

    The Peltier is the part that draws the most current, where as the fan does not, so i may experiment by separating the two & only thermostatically controlling the Peltier alone purely to see if there is anything to be gained. Bearing in mind that the Cool Box is located at the back of my boat, so i don't hear the fan from where we sleep.

  8. Sorry about the delay answering your question Mr Hockem.

    The Cathode sometimes has a flat side on the Led and where as the Anode does not. Also the Anode always has the longer leg and the Cathode has the shorter leg. If you look at the Pcb, you will see that it shows the the orientation drawn on it, clearly showing the flat side. This is where you insert the short leg (Cathode)

    If you have a 2nd hand Led, where the legs have been cut and have no flat side either, then the Anode & Cathode can be identified using a Multimeter on Ohms or Diode range if it has it.

    The Led that is supplied with this Kit has no flat side on it, but does have different length legs of the diode.

    Regarding making sure that the polarity is correct, Most definately, because if you don't it will get hot & if nothing goes open circuit before it goes bang, then it will produce an Arsenic Gas. (so don't go sniffing it when it pops)

    Anyway, hope you are up and running now.

    Don't forget to put some cold bottles of water etc in the cool box when testing it to stablise the temperature. otherwise it will switch on & off more often that you would like.

    One more thing, I may modify this further by separating the peltier & the fan, but this is something i will do later.

  9. No Problem David. (Hope i got your name right from memory)

    I have the proper Quicksilver grease for the gimble bearing & U joint, but regarding the drive shaft, i am using Keenol which is a lithium based grease and should be adequate for providing the lube i need.

    I have the correct Marine high pressure oil for the gearbox / reservoir and brand new trim ram pins / bushes / washers / circlips / covers etc for front and back, as they had play in them and the pins were pitted.

    I also have the complete gasket kit for it which includes all o rings inc 3 on the drive shaft, the very large one that sits just in front of the bellows and has to be glued in place and the main gasket, which is the part that i am trying to decide whether to just grease or use with a gasket sealer.

    The manual mentions greasing up the o rings, but does not mention what to use on the main gasket.

    Its good to hear your comments on this, as it will help me decide on what to use when it goes back on.

    As long as it dont leak, then i dont mind which one to use.

  10. Blimey Trevor, can you speed type or what.

    Thats quite a comprehensive set of instructions you have there.

    I have the workshop manual for this, so all torque settings and instructions are there, apart from what to actually use on the gasket.

    But i will print off what you wrote, as that is very helpful, thank you.

  11. Ok here we go.........

    I shall be fitting my Outdrive back on this weekend (Weather being on my side) and wanted to see what other people have used when fitting the gasket.

    I have been advised by a Marine Engineer, that he just puts waterproof grease onto the gasket for a good seal. Now this may be ok, but i am not sure if i would be comfortable with this, as i can't afford to have any leaks at all. This is due to the fact that i may not be able to be there when the boat is craned back in (Although i think i really need to organise this with the Marina so that i am) because if it leaks, the boat will sink.

    The only bilge pump on the boat, covers the forward part of the divide and has no float switch attached. The engine part (aft) of the divide has no bilge pump.

    I have all the components to sort these out, but im not going to have time to sort it out before the boat goes back in.

    I am tempted to either use Red Hermatite or Blu Hylomar with the Gasket as a safer bet.

    So, back to my question. What have you used / done in the past.

    I need a 100% seal on this with no mistakes.

    Thanks Guys

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

For details of our Guidelines, please take a look at the Terms of Use here.