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BB37

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Posts posted by BB37

    Hull/superstructure Join On An Ocean 30

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Hello,

    I have an Ocean 30, on which the hull/superstructure join needs attention. There is a slot between the deck and the top of the hull, which has wood (probably mahogany) packing, which is now completely rotten. A plastic strip has been screws up into the wood, and this is now falling off. The rubbing strake is bolted through the deck side, wood and hull top. I want to replace the wood, but don't have access to the bolts on the inside to undo them. I am thinking the best way to replace the wood is to cut slots in the new wood where the bolts are, and fix the wood in place with a polyurethane foam adhesive.   I am presuming that this is a fairly common problem with older GRP boats. Does this seem a reasonable approach? Has anyone used any alternative methods?

    Thanks,

    Ben  

    Aluminium Window Frame Sealant

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Thank you for your comments and advice. I think I will use the Arbormast as before because it is certainly easy to get the windows out if any further work is needed. 

    When I dug the glass out of the frames I found they had been sealed with silicone, which was mostly in fine condition. Interestingly, the seal failure was around where rubber shims had been used to locate the glass in the centre of the U section. These came close to the top of the U, leaving little silicone to provide the seal. If you are thinking of using this technique, I suggest keeping them as deep in the frame as possible. I am going to try putting them back together with just silicone, but working on a flat surface, and supporting the glass at the required height above the outside of the frame. By marking the location of the frame and glass position before assembly I should be able to centre the glass within the frame, and create a complete bed of silicone in the U before assembly. Lots of masking will be required, of course!

     

     

    Aluminium Window Frame Sealant

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Hello,

    Can anyone offer some advice on window sealing and sealant please?

    I have just removed an aluminium window frame from a GRP boat because the aluminium/glass seal leaks. It came out easily, and was sealed with a grey substance which had not set, except in a few places on the inside where it was exposed with a large surface area. I don't think it is butyl tape as it had been applied to the threads of the screws holding the frame to the GRP. The sealant had been in place for at least 5 years. It dissolved easily with white spirit.  Does anyone know what this sealant is from this description please?

    Also what is the best way to replace the glass/aluminium seal? I have read various articles on this. A rubber U section is one option, but I have read that this should also be sealed with silicone between the glass/rubber and rubber/aluminium, and then there is the troublesome matter of the join in the rubber, which is likely to open up under thermal stress (ie when very cold). I have also read that a complete bed of suitable silicone both sides of the glass makes a good seal. Dow 791 (neutral cure silicone) seems like a good option, being low modulus, and having good adhesion to both glass and aluminium (I have tested this and it is indeed the case as claimed). Has anyone tried this, and have any idea how long the silicone might last? If the rubber U required silicone to seal, why use the rubber at all? 

     

    Many thanks,

    Ben

    Fibreglass Lay-up - Time Window Between Successive Layers?

    in Site Technical Chat and `How To`

    Posted

    Hello,

    I'm about to lay up a mould of around 2m2 with polyester gelcoat and resin/CSM layers by hand.  I've successfully laid up smaller sample areas, but I am concerned as to whether I will be able to work fast enough to get successive layers on before the layer underneath gels/cures too much. Could anyone advise as to how far cured the resin can be and still chemically bond to new resin? Does the resin still need to be in the gel phase, or is there a window of hours after it hardens? On the same subject, when hulls are laid up, is it a continuous job, or is it possible to break over night between layers? 

    Thanks,

    Ben

    AQUAFIBRE MOULDS

    in Hire Boat Discussion

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, C.Ricko said:

    the C405 is still at stalham waiting for the saloon roof mould to be delivered so we can make it...

    the superstructure is waiting to be joined and the hull is out of the way in the shed.  

     

    Do you also do the fit out?

     

    We own a Ocean 30, it would be a real shame if the mould have been cut as they are such a great design.

    • Like 1

    AQUAFIBRE MOULDS

    in Hire Boat Discussion

    Posted

    4 hours ago, C.Ricko said:

    i really wanted the ocean 30 hull but would have never done anything with it, 

    the 29 was the coupe version but also didn't have the internal moulding, i did have  the opportunity to buy  mouldings from someone else though 

    the others we ancient except the pearl which i like but had been stored badly anyway

    there was also a few swimming pool and hot tub moulds.. 

     

    Presumably these are the moulds used by RGW Roe & Son at Rackheath, since 2010 when Aquafibre stoped.

    A Large Load...

    in Broads Chat

    Posted

    Today we were on the trail of the Hardy 65. It has been built over the last 18 months at North Walsham. It left North Walsham at 9:30, came over Wayford Bridge at 12:00, then it stopped at Stalham, just outside Richardsons at 12:30. It then came over the new Potter Heigham Bridge at 13:40. It was going on to Great Yarmouth where it will be put in the water in a few weeks. The progress was slow as there was a lot of trees overhanging the road, so they had two people on the top with chainsaws. Also power cables were being raised to fit it under.

     

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