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MBA Marine
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Posts posted by MBA Marine
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Sorry, way over my head there!
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Yes John it does have a built in thingimibob or what ever it's called now.
Hope we'll see you soon 
Now would that be a RCD a MCB or a MCBO? OMG we are mad on abrieviations LOL or maybe LMFAO!
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Yes that will do the job fine, just make sure you secure the cable properly as you will have breakers popping out if it accidently falls in the water! your conventional shore hook up clips in so not to uncouple by accident.
Mark
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why would you need the tv anyway? there are far better ways to entertain yourselves!
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Not yet!
Some suppliers say they can provide FAME free but others say 'you get what we get' and as I understand it all the tankers pull from Yarmouth so I assume it is unlikely.
I am no expert though so dont really want to give any more of my knowledge as some may not be 100%.
Alot of your older boats still have BMC's dont they? Have you had any problems? your boats clock up more hours than most so you should notice any probs first. If not your about to be very busy as everyone is going to fill up from you!!!!
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A drop of 2T is a good idea but I would be more worried about FAME content damaging fuel lines and seals than lack of lubrocity from the sulphur; I reckon most tales about that are apocryphal (though some are true) whereas the FAME content is a real and general issue as far as increased bug possibility and dissolving tank sludge which blocks filters. Don’t just take the suppliers word that it is “OK for boats†the more people that refuse to buy ultra low sulphur red with FAME content the sooner suppliers will provide it as a matter of course.
Excuse my ignorance, could you explain the 'FAME content'?
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I was told today that some yards have been having a problem with fuel pump not being lubricated by new low sulphur red diesil, fuel pump then wearing out alowing the engine to run on its own sump oil, till you stall by blocking air intake or it goes bang!
Im not wanting to scare munger or spread rumur, i just wanted to know the word on the street (or river). alot of you are running BMC and other old engine's which might have the same issue.
if this is the case we need to know the right additive to add to the fuel and fast, heres a couple of sugestions, 2 stroke oil well known to lubricate and cooking oil works in the loo's and having used it in an old car a few years ago give off a nice chip shop aroma!
Hope to hear back from you all soon
Mark
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I took one of my windows out on Saturday, cleaned up all the mess and used mastic tape from my local caravan shop. It took about 2 hours to do one window, most of that time was cleaning the mess up. I found what what causing the leak, when the window apertures were cut with a jigsaw they cut a centimeter past the edge on the bottom left corner. So in effect I had a gap here and this was exactly where the water was coming in.
Good news, leak found and job done. Well done.
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Wash the boards with some acetone, then buzz them over with a DA sander (random orbital sander) using nice rough bit of 60 grit. any low imperpections can be filled with a bit of Upol smooth 7 (or any P38) sanded then ready to cover, i would also use spay adhiesive.
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check the voltage range it work on, when your engine is running your up to 14.5v ish if the unit needs a contant 12v then it might not like the extra voltage. If the unit needs a constant voltage it can still be done but you would need a voltage regulator.
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use washing liquid (for clothes not for the dishes!), as its already a liquid no need to disolve it first. powder can be a little hard to disolve straight into the bilge.
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I would say yes carfully remove them clean them up and re-fit, but go for tape. If you use Sika then unless you have highly pollished grp it will stick, and i mean really stick. Yes your window will be fixed in and hopfully leak free but if you missed a spot or later down the line you need to remove the window again the the sika is likley to take the gel coat with it! i have seen it and its alot of gel repair.
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Hi,
Because most of my time is spent moored up at Marine I now have to consider changing the water heater as there seems to be no provision for an emersion heater to be fitted, cost wise it takes 30 minutes of cruising to warm the water for a night so I will be on the hunt for another tank with emersion heater capability preferably secondhand, unless some one knows better !
good luck with finding a good 2nd hand one, i would strongly recommend a new one, if your pally with your local yard ask them if they would buy you one trade, i would go for a Hotpot from ASAP supplies all pre assembled making install easy, otherwise search the net for any deals.
Your 2nd hand one will proberbly be half full of scale, the insulation will most likely be below par and its a lottery on how long a life it has left.
If you dont currently have an immersion then you will need to wire up the new one, is your shore power hook up up to speck? what is your breaker set up?
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Thinking about it Martin, I have not beeen as accurate as I perhaps should have as I failed to take into account that the measurements given were outside dimensions and did not factor in the wall thickness, but as that would have to be an assumption, though ponderable, would not increase the accuracy with any certainty.
have we forgot the filler and vent pipe up to filler hight? valuble fuel storage there!
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well done, time to try out the shower now, i hope that works now you can drain it.
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hi i think there,s a very large thread on here about that!! lol
somtimes plugs stick! not easy to to mould make in the winter in non ideal conditions, i know ive tried!!
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I think Richardsons are building a new boat as of this last year, ask Ricko he may have a pic.
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there is an automatic bilge pump directly under the hydraulic drive but the boat has three watertight bilges and the pump only clears the drive bilge, the engine compartment dosent have one at all and as you know my problem is with the shower drainage bilge pump location
If you cant find the bilge pump or drain outlet you want to find; Instead of chasing your tail why not buy a small submersible bilge pump (£20ish) stick on enough pipe to get it from your bilge over board, a long cable to get it to your batteries and get the bilge pumped out, then you might see what your looking for, if nothing there you can stop looking and install the system you want.
Be it straight into the bilge and bilge pump out as discussed, pump (go for a daiphram pump that can run a little dry) direct of the shower tray to through hull, or proberbly the best option if you have room to install a dedicated 'grey water' box and automatic pump.
Mark
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Welcome aboard, Mark!
Just what sort of help can you offer, please?
Im a mobile boat repair service, engineering, electrical carpentry.
I know the odd thing or two and im happy to aid with a bit of advice if anyone needs it.
Mark
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we measured the distance from the bilge backwards to under the steps but the whole area has no access point at all being solid GRP if there is a pump it is totally out of reach which dosent make any sense
Your bilge pump in not necessaraly a submersible, you may have either a vacume switch, or float switch down there and just a strainer foot and pipe up to a remote pump.
Mark
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I agree with others who said its draining direct to bilge, personally not my favourite type of intalation, can pong a bit if not used often but can keep bilge flushed out if you do use it often.
if it is going direct to bilge make sure the bilge pump is working and automatic.
The switch is most likey for a old water pump not operating with a pressure switch or water to toilet supply.
Hope this helps a little
Mark
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hi MBA
welcome to the forum
jill
A drink, damn fine idea!
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Just signed up, if i can help any of you out with advice please ask.
Hope we'll see you soon 
What's This? (only open to NEW members, <50 posts)
in Broads Chat
Posted
Yep a weed cutter that is, ive only seen it in action once, that was last year at Dilham.