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Swordfish

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Posts posted by Swordfish

    Finally Launched Today

    in The Broadscot Lounge

    Posted

    Sounds like a good idea Paul great to use for drying out.

    Tow it to your required mooring let it sit on the bottom' at a convenient depth open the doors 'drive' in, shut the doors bingo a non drying drying mooring :shocked

    Hi Perry,

    I did actually mean the two " green " hull extensions from Wombat, make sure you mount them with the wheels forward, and they will help you get through the shallows !!

    Regards, Paul

    Finally Launched Today

    in The Broadscot Lounge

    Posted

    hi Paul,

    sorry to hyjack your thread with funnies, a very intresting idea ,it should aid the boat to plane if you have enough power,although as said you,ve done it to reduce "squot" .no dought you,ve read this ,but here,s a link to some intresting reading if anybodys intrested.

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-d ... 33936.html

    Nice job and thanks for sharing :wave:clap

    Hi Diesel Falcon,

    No problem, not hyjacking at all, adding a few funnies makes it all more interesting. If you think about the weather or the economy, everything seems very dull.

    Re the hull extension, I do have some past experience with hull design and development, so I decided to do this modification to my hull, but as is often the sensible route, I kept quiet until the water test. I am realy amazed with the result, far better than I expected, and a real bonus is that the customary and always very annoying steering " wonder " with this type of sterndrive boat has now been eliminated.

    I think Wombat's tanks will be great for use with a drying out mooring, I'm sure David and Perry will be first in the que to buy from Wombat.

    Finally Launched Today

    in The Broadscot Lounge

    Posted

    I replaced the old swim platform with two hull shape " tanks ", and have gained just over 300Kg bouyancy at the transom.

    Regards, Paul

    Hello Smallfish, You must have cruised past St. Olaves and nicked the idea from me. I bear no malice i didn't have time to apply for a patent.

    I hear you did all the GRP work yourself? Could you possibly advise how i could seal the top of mine.i.jpg[/attachment]

    Finally Launched Today

    in The Broadscot Lounge

    Posted

    Paul - is that Jeep GK that you tow with?

    If it is, I've just bought a 2.7 CRD to tow our new Viking 20 :dance . Managed 28mpg on a 100 mile trip last week :cry . Not bad I suppose when the trailer and boat weigh in at 1800kg.

    Hi,

    My Jeep is the " WJ " model, built in the States, not Austria, because it has the " new " for Jeep overhead cam 4.7 V8. My mpg would be close to your figure, but without the 2. I only use it for towing and when it snows

    Finally Launched Today

    in The Broadscot Lounge

    Posted

    Looking great Paul, glad it all worked out well and your modification planned out well. She certainly is sitting nice ans square in the water now. :clap:clap:clap

    Hi Col,

    The result in the water is quite amazing, I'm very pleased. Is your drive / steering all OK now ?

    Paul

    Finally Launched Today

    in The Broadscot Lounge

    Posted

    I like the add on bathing platform looks so much better I take it's a new edition

    Jonny

    Hi Jonny,

    I see you noticed the little alteration I did over the winter. Many Bayliners in the USA are fitted with a " hull extention " because they are stern heavy. Mine also seemed to suffer with this problem, as indeed many sterndrive boats do. I replaced the old swim platform with two hull shape " tanks ", and have gained just over 300Kg bouyancy at the transom.

    Regards, Paul

    post-1207-136713904981_thumb.jpg

    post-1207-136713904997_thumb.jpg

    post-1207-136713905302_thumb.jpg

    have you thought about winter yet ?

    in Broads Chat

    Posted

    Hi Rich,

    I did learn last winter what the snow load can do. I have the twin rail on the flybridge, ( the ones that will support your new front cover later ) and a new support rail I bent in the centre of the fore deck, all the rails are linked with 2" webbing. Hopefully it will stay in place if we have severe weather.

    This cover is the one I bought from the USA.

    Paul

    Antifoul ??

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Yes, on the hull I used Teamac Metaclor underwater primer http://www.teamac.co.uk/primers-and-und ... er-primer/ which I got from Aquafax at Hoveton. It's much cheaper than the equivalent International product, and yet has a good reputation amongst commercial marine users.

    On the leg (and shield) I stripped to the bare aluminium and primed with three coats of International "Interprotect" epoxy primer. It's two pack, so goes off chemically like **** to a blanket.

    You have to be careful with the overcoating times, there are maximums before which time the topcoats should go on to be able to adhere before they go off fully.

    Thanks a lot for the info, last year I used a two pack epoxy primer from Marine and Industrial for my drive, it was specially for aluminum. I now have another drive to prepare before fitting to the boat. It's good to keep busy over the winter !

    Antifoul ??

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Yes David, that is why it is always suggested to leave a gap between the hull antifoul and metal fittings such as outdrives. I have another drive to fit to the boat ( different gear ratio ) so I would like to keep it clean.

    I have just looked at the spec. on Trilux 33, it seems to be the right paint for a sterndrive.

    Regards, Paul

    Antifoul ??

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    A question to those of you with " Sterndrive " boats. Do you use any form of antifoul on the actual drive leg ? My drive was totally re-sprayed last winter, and now after the sumer in the river it looks terrible, and it has been very difficult to clean.

    post-1207-13671387031_thumb.jpg

    euro or us how to tell

    in Technical Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Hi Steve,

    The Euro / US instruments are different in that they show Metric / Imperial scales, each must have its correct matching sender. The resistance of these metric / imperial senders is very different. I do have some installation sheets which give resistance readings at my workshop, will look for them when there next.

    Most of the guys at ASAP are quite knowledgable, one has been to the Faria factory, so they should help you determine which fuel sender you have.

    It is very important to adjust the sender correctly, the gague is useless unless it gives you a true measurement of tank conntent. The pivot point of the float arm is the actual resistance unit, it should be adjustable in height, this height is critical, relevant to the depth of your tank, then then the length of the float arm gives you the range : empty / full.

    I would suggest before you mount the sender in the tank, mount the sender through some plywood, connect all the wires and then perform the adjustments. Set the " empty " reading to leave a decent reserve of fuel, I set mine to show empty with 10 gallons remaining.

    Regards, Paul

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