Eberspacher problem?

[Palmtree]

Hi,

Fired up the heater on the boat today, ran fine on start up however when turned down it slowed down but then cut out. The fan continued to run but the fuel pulse stopped. This has done this a few times. (was nice and warm on the boat, Liz happy )

Any thoughts?

Ian

[Guest]

Hi Ian

I would think that you turned it down a bit too much as the incoming air temp. could have been above the presetting on the rheostat so the heater "thought" it did not require any more heat or had reached the temp so shut down.

#

I have try this on the bench:- ran heater and fed a bit of the hot air back into the inlet side to ensure the heater started to slow down.

If you feed in too much heat then it went throught the shut down procedure untill the unit cooled down again then started up.

Hope that helps.

[Palmtree]

Hi,

Paul, that makes a lot of sense, the inlet for the moment is just under the exhaust. So time to move the inlet.....

Thanks

Ian

[Guest]

Mine is side by side and I have to either leave a door ( above the inlet ) open to draw in cooler fresh air or at least a window for the same reason.

Works OK then.

[Antares_9]

You really need the hot air inlet at least 3 feet from the outlet Ian preferably more, the fan will, and indeed should always continue to run as the unit needs to continually sample the incoming (ambient) air temperature in order to function if it has an internal sensor. An alternative external sensor can be fitted and located in the coolest place aboard but that may result in a lightly grilled Ian & Liz. These heaters never actually switch off unless you turn them off. The only time this is not the case is when an actual thermostat switch is fitted instead of the standard rheostat, but that is not how the things are meant to function and leads to premature coking, fluctuated temperature and excessive battery drain due to frequent heating of the glow pin on start up. Sequence is, full power, reduced power on approaching target temperature then fan only to circulate air and sample temperature after that.

[Palmtree]

Hi,

Thanks David, that also makes sense, The flexible exhaust pipe passes through the cavity where the inlet air is drawn from.

I had not thought about this heating the inlet air. Something else to put down to experience!

Thanks

Ian

[pks1702]

Ian

You could rig an extra outlet with a flexible tube to dispate the heat outside the cabin; I am also told Eber's make great Hair Dryers :-D

Many a true word is spoken in jest Perry, it has been done, an outlet in the heads with an adaptor similar to the arrangement found in some hotels. :-D :-D

[Palmtree]

Hi,

2200w hair dryer, now that is something

Ian

[Guest]

Perry -

Whats a hair drier used for ??? :-D

[pks1702]

I wouldn't know Paul

[Antares_9]

A good one also works well on heat shrink tube :-D

[Palmtree]

Hi,

The heater is now back in the shed and works fine but It is not connected to duct or the exhaust silencer.

However I have brought a 7 day timer to fit as it has a diagnostic function, but not certain what wires to connect. The original black box with the unit looks unique to BT , and I can't find any reference to it in the wiring diagrams. Can I assume the box and the control knob are replaced by the 7 day unit?

Any thoughts?

Ian

[Antares_9]

Ian, the timer unit replaces the old rotary control and switches, do you have a wiring diagram for the Ebo unit if not I have one for the Webasto 1531 and they are an identical unit except the pheostat is a different resistance (so you cant buy a Webo one for Ebo's and vice versa I guess)

[Palmtree]

Hi David,

I am glad you confirmed the removal of the switch and black box.

I think I am now starting to make sense on the problem. The D2 unit was supplied with a D1LC wiring diagram with the main connector unit being 14 connections.

I now realize the D2 unit has a 16 unit connection and different colours!

Will post on Friday if it works!

Thanks

Ian

[Antares_9]

I have the Ebo service CD Ian, you are welcome to it if you like, I'm not sure if it has the diagnostic software on it (I lean toward thinking it does) but it gas all the parts diagrams and wiring diagrams, you are welcome to a copy if you can find a use for it.

[Palmtree]

Hi David,

That might be handy.

The 7 day timer is working well.

By simulating the boat set up in the garage I think the first bend in the outlet duct might be the problem. It runs at full power ok with a straight duct, but when the duct is bent 90deg the problems start.

Time to review the ducting I think....

Thanks

Ian

[Antares_9]

Ah, a proper engineers approach to problem solving, simulate under controlled conditions

I'll have the CD with me at the weekend if you're passing.

[Palmtree]

Hi,

Ah, a proper engineers approach to problem solving, simulate under controlled conditions

Proper engineers approach, go to pub and talk over problem with Technical department

The problem is sorted (well in the garage anyway) replacing Paraffin with Diesel sorted the problem. It looks like the ex BT unit was set to run on Diesel, it is either something to do with the viscosity or calorific value of the fuel that has made the difference.

The unit will be put back in the boat and run on Diesel ( I hope).

Thanks again to David & Perry for a good brain storming session in the Fishermans........

Good beer by the way

Ian

[pks1702]

Thanks again to David & Perry for a good brain storming session in the Fishermans........

Beer has a wonderful problem solving capacity

Glad you have resolved it Ian, perhaps your earache will cure itself now