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LondonRascal

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Posts posted by LondonRascal

  1. 10 minutes ago, ChrisB said:

    EEK! that would have covered my mooring.

    Mooring:               £4,501.00

    Insurance:            £1,342.00

    Tolls:                       £ 979.76

    Matters not how you look at it, boating is not cheap. Regardless of boat, the single highest outlay is mooring which is why I never quite get the moaning about the Tolls. The bit of wood and some posts you attach the boat to costs so much for what it actually is.

    • Like 6
  2. May I recommend, that anyone who ever thinks about 'the future' and 'one day I will do that' just watch the video below.

    We, as people, are constantly trying to get somewhere and yet when we arrive we are already considering the next destination. Sometimes in life you need to jump in, both feet and worry about what you find after.

    Everything you want and can do is simply the other side of fear. Once you are there, it is wonderful. Independence might seem crazy for some that I went into as I have, but it is not just about me and my own life and understanding things, it is about sharing with friends too so while I can, I will because you have no idea when things may change than prevent you realising that 'one day' dream.

    • Like 10
  3. I have today got my BSS Certificate for Independence, so now I have to apply for the proper annual Toll. I have been charged various amounts in the past for temporary tolls, and been told different amounts over the phone based on the size of the boat. I'd like therefore to share this with others and see if we all agree to the same price. 

    The Broads Authority say:

    Quote

    To calculate the square metre area of your vessel measure the hull length and the beam in metres to the nearest centimetre then multiply these two measurements. The toll is based on whole square metres so disregard any decimal parts, for example if the vessel is 9.75m2, you will be charged for a 9m2 vessel.

    So based on this Independence is 16.2m in length by 4.6m beam - thus this gets me to 74.52 m2 and by removing the decimal point I have a 74 m2 vessel for Toll purposes (am I correct so far?)

    Now the scale of charges on The Broads Authority website takes into account vessels up to 20m2 and thereon for each additional square meter add £13.24 for a motor craft.

    I calculate this to mean 20m2  £264.80 plus 54 x £13.24 (£714.96) to equal a total amount of £979.76

    I think I have that correct - and now everyone who thought they had a hefty Toll bill can wonder again lol.

  4. 4 minutes ago, ChrisB said:

    May I offer a suggestion for you and Independance? All of which you can google and research which seems one of your strengths.

    The Staande Mast rougte through Holland so no air draft issues, The Keil Canal, Copenhagen, The Gota Canal across Sweden to enter the Baltic just south of the Stockholm Archipelago and then cruise in an area of almost no tides, of vitually no darkness in summer and a salinity so low the grass and trees grow to the waters edge. Almost like The Broads rather than a sea. You could have a fabulous time on a boat like you are lucky to own, and though in northern latitudes enjoy fantastic summer weather.

    That does indeed sound lovely, though I have to admit the likelihood of that happening is slim.

    This is something that seasoned boaters have often frowned at - why on earth have such a capable boat tucked away on the Broads? But for the foreseeable that is where she is and one of these days she might get taken down for a re-fuel of diesel used over the winter and a cruise to somewhere like Reedham for lunch.

  5. 26 minutes ago, Hylander said:

    Gosh it does look smart.

    I am getting there, there is still a lot to be done (for my liking) that is having to be put on the back burner such as having her out the water to change the Anodes, polish the props and hull. Also the superstructure needs compounding, waxing and polishing and new anti-slip paint applied to areas where it has worn on and around the RIB area of deck.

    I need all new seating for the sundeck and fly bridge, and probably an all new canopy for the sun deck. I also need to sand the forward part of the Teak deck as the aft section and swim platform has been done previously and is in perfect condition, the forward part is not as good as could be. That should then sort her out and make keeping on top of things easier.

  6. So it has been a while since I wrote here about Indy, but those over on our Facebook Group will have been aware with my 'nugget videos' that I have been doing more works on the boat and spending a lot of time in Norfolk of late, either on holiday with Shilea on a hire boat, dealing with Trixie's works or Independence.

    So last Friday  (20th April) I headed up to Independence and the first thing to do was inspect all the works that had been completed for the BSS. They were indeed all sorted and done and my engine room had been left very tidy - so there was just one last thing to check, open up the balance pipes between the three fuel tanks to equalise them having been drawing fuel from only my centre tank over winter to get as much fuel out to aid Norfolk Yacht Agency in their works on the system.

    They had not found any leak in the vent hose from the centre tank, but had found the starboard wing tank's vent hose was not secured properly so believed that to be the source of fuel leaking. I found this a challenge to work out and I was soon proved correct that it was not the cause, when fuel rushed into the centre fuel tank putting it under some pressure and forcing fuel up the vent hose to the level of fuel in the wing tanks - and seconds later the exterior of the vent hose was wet with diesel.  Off with the fuel flow then, get the oil absorbing pads and 'sausages' out again and film the situation at hand to then email off to NYA.

    I had a call from Shaun, very apologetic that him and two others (including Tim Waters who had been inspecting works) had not found the issue as nobody had thought to open the valves to get fuel into the centre tank under pressure. All would be sorted he assured me come Monday top man!

    Then it was time for a good clean of the superstructure and jet-wash the hull - this takes several hours and is one of the main drawbacks I have found to the size of the boat is the cleaning schedule to keep her in tip top form and how long it takes to do properly. I certainly had a nice sleep come Friday evening!

    Saturday morning arrived and it was an early start, I left Brundall for Norwich at 09:30 where I changed trains and got to Wroxham - here I had an hour to kill before my bus to Ludham Bridge to meet George and catch up with the works on Trixie - see that thread for information - then it was back on a bus from Ludham Bridge to Norwich, and train to Brundall arriving back to Indy at 16:45. Rather than take it easy, I decided it was time to give the upper superstructure including my Radar array, domes and crane a good clean - and use some so called 'wonder' cleaner on the RIB since although clean, was not as good as I thought I could get it.

    Well I got underway with the cleaning and soon my domes and crane were looking spotless once more, I too was soaking wet but it was okay as Saturday had been a lovely hot day up in Norfolk.  I then turned my attention to the RIB using a product from Chemicals Direct called simply 'Marine RIB'. At over £20.00 a litre this is not cheap stuff, but my goodness it is amazing. Spray on and ingrained dirty vanishes, it got the tubes super white and a real soft feel to the rubber. I then gave it a go on my tired and weather hard vinyl seating - boom - it was so white you needed sunglasses in the sunshine. The only issue? It has remove my finger prints and made my hands super crisp and dry! I must wear gloves and read labels next time.

    After the cleaning was done I got to named the RIB officially and had a Beer and little ceremony  which also involved Face Timing Shiela to show her. The old decals came off so easy with a new decal remover soft rubber dis for use with a drill, and the new ones look the business in electric pink and I like the design I made with the font too. Once that was done it was off with the worn, battered and ripped Williams RIB cover (they wanted over £2,000 to have a new branded cover) and on with a silver RIB cover I bought on Amazon for £50.00 and which also looks proper cool. Now clean and looking good it was time to relax finally and stop work - only to then need to get on with works inside fitting my replacement fire extinguisher that had arrived and polishing the wood flooring.

    Come Sunday and it was even more hot! On with the AC only I forgot how much Amps it drawers and my real gripe with the mooring it only has 16Amp shore supply which is ok for 99% of boaters but on a vessel  like Indy who is all electric and consumes oodles of electricity not so good. I duly tripped the pontoon's supply when the second AC compressor kicked in. Ops.

    So all reset and back on with power, it was time to run the Generator - running at 1,500RPM she does not drink too much fuel but this is not something I can do long term  week after week in the high summer - 83,000 BTU of cooling power though soon got the interior of the boat cooled right down - bliss. I then decided to find the 'Mediterranean pack' out from storage which was purchased from new and includes window covers - both mesh and opaque - for use in hot climates. Not only do they stop as much heat getting into the boat, they stop the damaging bleaching of the UV light on wood and upholstery. I only am bothering with the forward screens, since these are not tinted glass, the rest of the windows are super tinted with UV blocking glass.

    I used the Marine RIB cleaner on the white vinyl screen cover and just as with the seating and actual RIB, this came up amazingly. I used gloves this time though! Then it was time to pack up and head off home.  I had a call from NYA come Monday to say they had fixed finally the vent hose and replaced it - they also sorted my slack Alternator belts, belts I was told in Plymouth were new and which I questioned but was assured were - turn out to be anything but and have been badly worn. I have ordered new sets and in time am going to have a full audit carried out on the engines because I now no longer trust what Mount Batten did or advised in Plymouth. It makes me think they just changed the oil to make it look clean and nice. 

    Some photos:

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    • Like 11
  7. 3 minutes ago, grendel said:

    anyone got a commercial coaster to take up river, surely if they cannot operate for a commercial vessel they must pay compensation for trade losses incurred by any delay.

    I guess 'commercial traffic' need not be that big or often but what if you had a fixed mast boat that made  deliveries of local produce to Reedham Quay for the pubs? You could surly then argue that the bridge has to work because the river is being used as a delivery artery for local businesses - even if the 'produce' happened to be a single keg of beer. It is more a moral point than anything.

  8. 9 minutes ago, dnks34 said:

    Inconveniencing boaters and 100s if not 1000s of motorists  in Lowestoft is absolutely fine though.

    If you make reference to the Town Bridge in Lowestoft then that is different to my mind, because that is a commercial port with operations going on through the day and is an integral part of the local economy. Much as Yarmouth is n a smaller scale (and without a bridge being in the way of most of the shipping).

    The bridge lifts in Lowestoft  are timed - though more frequent than Yarmouth would ever be - so you can at least have a good idea ahead of when the traffic will be backing up.

    There would be a lot less likelihood of Mutfrod Lock being used and the bridges there being open if one needed to cross the water, a detour up there and back down into town again might be a viable option during known bridge lifts in the town.

     

  9. I would not mind if this was a 'one off' unusual case, but it has just slowly become the norm. I could also accept it if Network Rail were caught out by this seasonally unusual warmth, in so far as they had a schedule to put the summer rails on the bridges from mid May let us say.

    Alas, no. They don't want to put the summer rails on because that is a lot of effort and clearly cost. They don't want to 'hose down' the hot rails because the run off from the track would take grease and so on into the river systems (yet I ponder what happens when it rains). In many locations over the country rails have been painted white to help with issues at Points where excessive heat has caused seizures to the mechanism's. So have Network Rail attempted as a 'stop gap' to paint the rails over the bridges white to help? Not a bit of it.

    The fear is the bridge will get stuck in the open position and thus cause issues for the railway means whenever there is risk of such, an email is sent to the Broads Authority to explain the bridges are not operational. The Broads Authority then issue an urgent boating update and we all roll our eyes. And so it goes on.

    Where are the Broads Authority putting pressure on Network Rail to put a stop to this? I can only assume they might raise it in some cross party meeting as a side note to which Network Rail will explain how hard and expensive such is to rectify but they are looking into a long term solution but in the mean time will simply pass on to the Broads Authority when the bridges are not operational.  [Stops at this point to research]

    This is a bit tongue in cheek, but shows what seems to be going on behind the scenes.

    [Comes back from researching] And the news is not good. In fact I kid you not it is the same as I suspected!

    John Packman has stated to the EDP the following in February this year:

    Quote

    "The bridges at Reedham on the River Yare and Somerleyton on the River Waveney have been swinging open for fixed-mast river craft since 1905. However, both require regular maintenance to keep them in full working order and are coming to the end of their useful life. They had worked with Network Rail for a number of years regarding the bridges."

    Well that is nice to hear that they are fully aware of how old the bridges are, that they need regular works to keep them operating but despite this are old and coming to the 'end of their useful life'  which makes one wonder what happens when the end is reached. He has also stated the obvious:

    Quote

    “They expand on very hot days in the summer to the point that they cannot be opened and this inevitably is a considerable problem for our private owners of larger boats that cannot fit underneath.”

    Well no, who would have guessed? The fact however this is only a considerable problem to private owners of large craft unable to passage under tells me all I need to know. I have a solution, more large, tall boats on the Broads are needed it will rack in extra Toll revenue and make such the majority rather than the minority of boat traffic and thus have a greater importance for Network Rail and the Broads Authority to listen to. I will begin the process by increasing the 'Rascal Fleet'  to include a lot more tall and large boats.  He has gone on to say:

    Quote

    "A third swing bridge at Trowse, although a much newer bridge, had been plagued with technical problems and had limited ability to open because of increased rail traffic. Through the combined actions of one of our navigation committee members, Simon Sparrow, and a letter from our Solicitor, David Harris, we have made Network Rail aware of their statutory responsibilities.”

    He said Network Rail had carried out a successful opening of Trowse Bridge in early January which is handy because I guess they need to make sure it can at least open to let the Sea Cadets boat out once that is sold. However in so doing they seem to have caused more issues...:

    Quote

    “This identified £100,000 worth of improvements needed. These have been given a ‘priority one’ label and will be delivered in 2018/19.”

    Priority one label please - duly stuck onto file and put away in back of drawer - worry about it in 2019, may have new management team in by them and problem will be theirs. 

    Mr Packman has also said:

    Quote

    "Network Rail had commissioned strategies for Somerleyton and Reedham swing bridges, which were completed in March 2014 and more recently an analysis of the five options for their replacement or refurbishment. In terms of Somerleyton Bridge, Network Rail has built up a good knowledge of when this bridge suffers problems. They can work out a temperature range and a rough timing in the afternoon that when certain conditions are met the bridge will not open.”

    So having undertaking a report on how best to deal with the issues at Somerleyton and Reedham, and despite such being concluded in 2014 (having had 4 more years since) they have now got a good knowledge of when the bridges will suffer problems [e.g. when BBC Look East Weather forecasts hot days ahead] and that is important because armed with this information and and knowing a rough idea of when it may reach its peak (low and behold mid-afternoon when the sun is at its most intense) then they can issue a warning.

    He concludes saying:

    Quote

    Members of the Broads Authority navigation committee yesterday supported a suggestion that Network Rail provide the authority with detailed information that can be shared with boaters.

    Well there you go - so Network Rail took lots of time, worked out strategies and reports and concluded that on a hot day in the afternoon it is likely that the rails and bridges since are made of Steel with expand and issues will be encountered with their being able to open and close. Having shared such groundbreaking research with the Broads Authority, they had a committee meeting and it was voted upon that they suggest to Network Rail when such conditions are expected to cause issues to the operation of the bridges, could they pass on this information to the Broads Authority?

    And that is where we are today... The bridges will open for boats at times (before midday and after when less hot likely) and in between we are told via the Broads Authority when the bridges are not operational. Don't expect to plan trips to sea mind you if it is summertime - there is a good chance your be stuck the wrong side of the salty stuff.

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  10. We have both a remote monitored alarm and CCTV system. Both are easy to install if you know the basics of wiring and low voltage power.

    If you want a more basic approach a smart IP camera will sit on the boat and you can monitor it when you wish, or if it detects movement will alert you both sending you live images and recording them in the Cloud so even if the cameras is destroyed the footage is always kept safe.

    Have a look online for 'GSM Alarms' and you will find a host of different systems with different sensors, from PIR to door and window even smoke and heat. Pop in a SIM card on a pre-paid tariff and that will mean you are alerted not only to alarm activation (where you can listen and talk back in case was a false trigger) but even know when the power has been disconnected and hopefully restored.

    These systems do need a shore power connection to work as they are domestic systems running off of the mains with a battery back up.  The CCTV systems will also need a Wifi Router - I did a review of one I used on Independence, but the model I got can be found here: http://amzn.eu/5HTLeZ4 

    • Like 1
  11. I would have thought (and if nobody has then they can consider) getting each competitor to have a simple GPS tracker - although they can still report to the 'guard ships' this data can be collected real time an shared online overlaid with Google Maps and then see what boat is where, at what speed and so on bringing more engagement with the public..

    • Like 1
  12. To my mind, it is not about paying more it is about being accountable for what is currently collected. It need not be in hefty reports and so on, it can be really much more easy - sharing with vigor the work that is going on with money we all have paid in through Tolls.

    I don't think it would be that hard to have the Broads Authority engage more with the people using the rivers through Forums like this and Facebook - at least then we would all have a very clear understanding of what has been going on, and see some progress.

    • Like 2
  13. 1 hour ago, vanessan said:

    (Robin has proved that three times and I don’t think he’s finished yet!)

    I could go on, but I won't. :55c8f94983015_default_happyparty:

    This has to be a first, a woman telling me I have proved a point, but to have it in writing that I did it three times over? Well that is my life work achieved right there :15_yum:

    • Haha 6
  14. Talking of 12v charging, I have seen many of the flush mount USB chargers but this was the first which combined a voltage readout which is handy. Since almost everything can be charged by USB these sort of things are great.

    USB .jpg

    Amazon Link

    You can also get one that fits into a a common switch housing found on many boats these days:

    USB 2.jpg

    Amazon Link

    • Like 2
  15. 3 hours ago, Ricardo said:

    Really can you charge agm battery's as fast as lead acid.  Answer is no you can't which equals extend running times and that if yiu have arrived at your destination means running at the quay heading , stick to tried and trusted and proven to work

    You are correct that AGM batteries are more sensitive to charge voltage and current - put too much in too fast and you damage them, use too much out of them and leave them in a discharged state without promptly re-charging and you damage them. They are not the quite the perfect battery some might think.

    That said, they don't self discharge as much once fully charged as a standard flooded cell, and can provide more amps happily in a shorter time period than a flooded cell would - so are more suited for use where you may be using an Inverter and demanding a rather sudden, if short lived, amperage demand.

    The real benefit most people see is that they generally have a longer cyclic life - I'd fit them on Trixie myself because of their advantages,  but because she has no Inverter let alone a big power demanding items, the old fashion flooded cells will suffice.

  16. As for the May 12th - I am up for this. I would also be happy to put a chunk of funds in for accommodation maybe on one of Marthams boats/bungalows if they were free and would do a weekend price.

    June 7th to 11th  I can't as am on Indy with the rest of the crew (Doug you welcome to join us for a cruise as will be on the rivers so nice and still).

    I might not be very good with wood working but am ok with varnish, painting, sanding, taking apart, putting together and generally giving a hand.

     

  17. 40 minutes ago, Regulo said:

    Robin, re the bow thruster. I have run my bowthruster from the engine starter battery from when it was fitted 14 years ago. I really don't understand why you need a separate battery for them. I use the bowthruster when leaving my mooring for about 30 seconds, and the battery is fully topped up within 5 minutes. Unless you have a starting problem, the starter battery is vastly under-used, and most have plenty of capacity to run a bowthruster. Just a thought.

    This is what George had said may be an idea too. I know this has worked well for many but I also know it is more common to have a battery mounted close to the thruster just for it - thus you have considerable redundancy. I think on Trixie we may go down the route of moving the engine cranking battery to a separate box in the engine bay area (there is space I believe) and then make way for a third house battery.

    I am meeting George this weekend so will go over things in person and be guided by his experience.

  18. 2 hours ago, 40something said:

    Robin, if the square fluorescent light fittings are still useable once removed I would be interested in purchasing them

    I will ask George to try and save them - they are super glued to the damn headlining as well as being screwed in so I hope they will come out cleanly, if they do I will save them for you and for no charge :)

  19. I am having some 'battery woes' currently. On Trixie, she has two 110Ah batteries to domestics and one 125Ah starting battery. One the face of it, that sounds plenty - but in fact she only has 55Ah of usable battery capacity. That is not a great deal when you consider that there is a fridge to power, heating, lighting, water pump and shower drain pump and that is before a TV is plugged in and so within a 24hr period you really ought to run the engine to ensure that you are not eating into more than 50% of the capacity in Lead Acid batteries.

    Normally the answer would be to fit some more capacity - but with a small boat you hit the issue of where to put them, and not only that where to put them that will keep the boat 'on an even keel' and not listing. It also is easy to get carried away with number of batteries verses ability to recharge them. When you have a battery monitor installed (I think very one should hire or private) you see just how long it can take - especially that last 15% where you are putting relatively few amps in - more a 'trickle charge' to full. Without a monitor it is like a toilet tank with no gauge, you just guess and hope.

    Because Trixie is not going to be a long term keeper there is not much point going 'mad' with batteries be it in number, fitting a second Alternator, or changing the chemistry of the batteries. I am going to keep it simple and hope to add an extra 110Ah (giving me 165Ah domestic capacity) and running the engine for longer to recharge them fully.  Solar Panels are not the be all and end all, but you can see how these can help a lot - especially with fridges, which on the average boat is the single highest continuous drain on the batteries. In hot weather they need to work more often to maintain a set temperature - if you can have solar power of just 2 or 3 Amps that will go a long way to taking away almost all the drain during the day the fridge will take from your domestic battery bank - and when you are not about using the fridge (e,g, it is off) will keep the batteries topped up too.

    I really think now for the majority of boaters it is time to at least move up to AGM batteries - they cost more than the usual Lead Acid, may need some re-configuring of your chargers and Alternator regulators, but will last longer (more cycles) and can be discharged to a greater degree before damage is caused than standard Lead Acid batteries. You could get a Leoch branded AGM battery of 110Ah capacity for £140.00. Not bad really and are not the silly pricing of Lithium where you are looking at £1,400 for 150Ah battery (equivalent to 258Ah Lead Acid).

     

     

  20. 15 minutes ago, Maxwellian said:

    Spare Blue Fender...... isn’t one enough?

    Well I am having all new fenders - sparkly grey metallic ones - this means I will have about ten size 2 or size 3 blue fenders in due course to be given away.

    However, I also have a brand new blue one never used and it makes sense to use that on the swim platform for stern mooring

    • Like 1
  21. I have had a call from Ludham Bridge Boatyard, she is now out the water and after they had got rid of about 1/2 inch of growth from off the hull moved on for a good inspection. All was well, until they got the prop and Skeg. Here a 'pear shaped' Anode had been attached to the Skeg, come loose and appears to have been stuck by the prop thus causing the vibrations and issues I had been experiencing. The Anode will now be moved to a new location to prevent this having a chance to ever happen again.

    Otherwise all seems to be progressing well, and have opted for a hard coastal type anti foul (in red) and a boot line which will be a vinyl stripe rather than painted on which will be easier to deal with in future - no keying of the gel coat to paint and simply can be removed and re-applied with fresh when it begins to look less smart.

    I thought I would update as to the list of works that are being undertaken to date:

    • To look at why Morse control is so stiff when shifting between forward and astern. Check cable and lubricate as necessary. 
    • While vibration has gotten significantly better at higher RPM to once the boat is out the water check and advise as to propeller pitch and size. 
    • Replace blown bulb in engine gauge panel for the RPM dial and oil pressure gauge. I believe the others illuminate correctly. 
    • Fit suitable LED bulbs in navigation lights, forward steaming light and all round anchor light. 
    • Investigate why mast electrical connection is not working. Possible corrosion of the connector. Replace connector if required with composite (plastic) style not the metal style. 
    • Check charging system is working as should.  Check battery connectors and terminals (they seem a little corroded in places). 
    • Fit a digital style regulator (model to be decided) to ensure battery banks are charged and that one cannot bring down another.
    • Use battery bay space for an additional 110ah domestic battery and moving starter battery to within engine space. Possibly downsize engine battery starter battery. Utilise the larger domestic battery capacity for bow thruster until seperate bow thruster battery can be found a home for.
    • Fit NASA battery monitor to helm console. 
    • Investigate why so little DC voltage is reaching the DC distribution board. I metered it at 10.5v and this does not improve too much when engine is running. It does improve more when mains battery charger is active. Of course this should not fluctuate like this and be close to or just over 12v.
    • To take the headlining down in main cabin and sleeping area. To then use some 3mm  plywood and have new foam backed headlining bonded on.
    • To fit new down lighters (I will supply units and LED bulbs) such to be switched. Two to be used over the galley sink and hob and two over the seating area/table. This would in effect produce a pattern the same as a ‘4’ on a Dice. 
    • In the sleeping area two down lights much in the same location as current lights. These again would need a light switch.  The galley down lights need to have a separate light switch to the seating area down lights. 
    • Headlining to have no visible screws/staples as per what is in situ currently. 
    • To use this opportunity when headlining is down, to remove TV aerial, ventilator and Spot Light. Place Spot Light in a central location where the current horn is located. Replace horn with new model and hard wire the same. 
    • Fit the Vetus ventilator that has a 12v extractor fan inside over hob.
    • Fit a suitable LED light unit on bulkhead in heads compartment where current unit is located. 
    • Check operation of Anchor winch. Tighten remote switch located in helm panel. 
    • Use red hard ‘coastal’ anti foul
    • Gloss stripe in burgundy where current blue stripe is on cabin sides
    • Vinyl burgundy boot line.  
    • Fit new shower mixer tap in heads. This is supplied and on the galley worktop.
    • Fit spare blue fender to bathing platform.
    • De-scale bathing platform and generally clean wood slates. 
    • Replace windscreen wiper blades. 
    • Removal of boat names and application of new names. These are on port berth and shown in writing on reverse what is what and to go where. 

     

    • Like 3
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