Jump to content

Installing Gas equipment

Recommended Posts

cheers Pete,

I was just thinking about installing one of those Propex warm air heaters myself...maybe best to get a friend in to help with previous experience of fitting the fellas.

I'm confident enough to have a go but with boats there's always that extra little worry where gas is involved. In theory, fitting it should be pretty easy as I'd intend to replace the less efficient cat mat heater with the Propex unit and site it very close by. Two outlets, one in the main cabin and the other in the heads should knock out all the warm air I'd ever want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

:-D Pete! you say you fitted your own oven and hob? Can I ask is it connected by a flexible hose from the shut off tap to the cooker or is it in copper tube, I'm about to change my two burner cooker for the oven and hob type, at present mines connected from the tap to the cooker on a flexible hose, I'm not a great lover of these hoses but it would be a lot simpler if I used the existing one, on the other hand I'd soon run it in copper tube as it's a short run and the cookers unlikely to be moved,, :wave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheersbar Thanks Pete! The bit I needed was the connection from the stop tap in the cabin to the back of the cooker, but useful information never the less, like you I don't like the idea of the rubber connection at the back of the cooker, they must be safe or they wouldn't get past the BSS, I just don't feel safe with it, so want the copper tube between the two, I always do all of my own gas fitting at home then get it certified by a Corgi man, which after reading your first post I now know I can now do on my boat, but your point about not over tightening compression joints is very important for any Gas or Plumbing work, It should be hand tight then given one complete turn with the spanner, a little tip I was taught is to do the nut up hand tight, then put a little line with a marker pen across the nut and fitting, that way as you tighten it up you can see when you've done one complete turn, the part about the sleeving is also very important, because if it isn't sleeved when going through a bulkhead, panel or wall, it will be failed by the Corgi man, and as I did that once, I can tell you it's no fun when you've just spent hours doing it only to have to take it all out again and re-do it, once again thanks for the Info Pete, hopefully it will also put anyones mind at rest thinking of doing their own Gas fitting on their boat,, :wave
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Pete, the corgi inspection is not required for a boat that is not residential and will not be hired out, so a competent person becomes anyone able to test for leaks and check that the pipework has been supported within 6" of any joint, passages through bulkeads are sheethed with a suitable sleeve and so on, the BSS man is classed as competent to inspect. Wouild agree that having it checked by a gas man is very sensible though.

Jim, the Propex heater is an easy piece of kit to install and although a bit Gas hungry does a good job of heating White Lady through 2 vents, one into the saloon and one into the cockpit, won't do much with the canopy off but keeps the cockpit warm on an Autum Evening with the canopy up. Would suggest you ring them directly rather than buying through Calor as they are very helpfull. We started with a Factory recon unit but after 2 failed we gave up and had a new one, customer service though was second to non with replacments and pick ups all paid for by Propex and next day service.

Watch for the routing of your gas pipes through the engine compartment, you will not be allowed any joints within any area open to the engines, assuming that you have a petrol lump in yours. As Pete says a bubble tester within the gas locker is a very good idea, giving a permenant check for leaks. I used water pipe as a sheath for my gas lines an ran it the full length of the pipe, made installation easy, stops the pipe kinking and also by sealing the end away from the gas locker to the pipe, running the sheathing into the gas locker and not sealing it to the pipe there, if there ever was to be a leak it would be diverted back into the vented gas locker.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Sponsors

    Norfolk Broads Network is run by volunteers - You can help us run it by making a donation

  • Create New...

Important Information

For details of our Guidelines, please take a look at the Terms of Use here.