Engine removal

[Naijan]

I need to take old engine out before fitting re-con any tips how to make it easier?

Other thing....diesel tank have been sitting unattended for 2years bet is full of wonderful things now.

We are thinking about fitting new tank as well as I'm not sure the original one will be possible to clean, any thoughts on the replacement?

Greetings

[puddlejumper]

With out seeing it no thoughts on engine removal . Fuel tank if its S/steel you could steam clean it if replacing use S/steel fit once and forget job done

[MBA Marine]

you will need help from lifting gear, crane or a lifting gantry if inside, the engine will tilt as you lift and i know its tight as the door is not central but the boat is, but with careful hands and maybe some boards for the engine to slide on at the lifting gear pulls it up to the doorway. if only the Kent had a removable cockpit floor and a big removable section beside the door.

is your tank a stainless cylinder, with a boat safety failing filler, accessed from through a small door way in the saloon? I made a GRP tank that matched the hull shape and still passed through the door. You biggest problem is not housing a tank its getting it in as there is bags of space that you just cant get too. I would consider making the small door much bigger taking it down to the seat top. Have a look at fuel tanks on the ASAP Supplies website and see if there is something suitable of the shelf.

[Naijan]

you will need help from lifting gear, crane or a lifting gantry if inside, the engine will tilt as you lift and i know its tight as the door is not central but the boat is, but with careful hands and maybe some boards for the engine to slide on at the lifting gear pulls it up to the doorway. if only the Kent had a removable cockpit floor and a big removable section beside the door.

is your tank a stainless cylinder, with a boat safety failing filler, accessed from through a small door way in the saloon? I made a GRP tank that matched the hull shape and still passed through the door. You biggest problem is not housing a tank its getting it in as there is bags of space that you just cant get too. I would consider making the small door much bigger taking it down to the seat top. Have a look at fuel tanks on the ASAP Supplies website and see if there is something suitable of the shelf.

 

Apologises for not getting back earlier, i didn't removed old engine yet will be doing it in next few weeks.

As to the diesel tank, I'm quite sure that it's not a stainless steel, but removal will be very tricky as there is no access apart from dismounting cupboards i have build on this wall.

I was thinking about installing access hatch in cockpit (next to the steering wheel) this would allow easy access to the tank for any maintenance and potential removal. I will post some photos as soon i get to the boat.

 

 

[Naijan]

_{Believe it or not  but we have managed to finally remove the engine. It's taken two days of grime,  one railway sleeper, a block and tackle, together with a forklift to finally lift it of the boat.}

 _{Now we have got a big gaping hole smelling of oil and old bilge water which needs to be cleaned and painted.}

_{Could anyone recommend a good degreaser to get rid of over 40 years of dirt and grime. I also need to paint it -  would a gelcoat be good choice for that?}

_{I have also managed to get the diesel tank out, which had around 60 litres of black smelly diesel remaining in it.}

_{The tank looks in good condition so, i think i will sandblast the outside and repaint it. Obviously i will pressure wash the inside which should not be difficult as there is a big inspection hatch on the top. Now i need to find a drawing of a diesel purification system, as we are planning keeping this boat for long time so it's probably worth investing in. Any words of wisdom very welcome.}

[MBA Marine]

_{Believe it or not  but we have managed to finally remove the engine. It's taken two days of grime,  one railway sleeper, a block and tackle, together with a forklift to finally lift it of the boat.}

 _{Now we have got a big gaping hole smelling of oil and old bilge water which needs to be cleaned and painted.}

_{Could anyone recommend a good degreaser to get rid of over 40 years of dirt and grime. I also need to paint it -  would a gelcoat be good choice for that?}

_{I have also managed to get the diesel tank out, which had around 60 litres of black smelly diesel remaining in it.}

_{The tank looks in good condition so, i think i will sandblast the outside and repaint it. Obviously i will pressure wash the inside which should not be difficult as there is a big inspection hatch on the top. Now i need to find a drawing of a diesel purification system, as we are planning keeping this boat for long time so it's probably worth investing in. Any words of wisdom very welcome.}

Any good degreaser that you need to dilute.  as for painting, you could use a Brush top coat (flow coat) which is a gel with a high wax content, but if you do after degreasing you will have to grind the surface to grp removing all paint and residual grime, or you could just give it a couple of coats of bilge paint.

Fuel, one bulkhead (primary) CAV or a racor and the one on the engine should be fine, as it has been for most boats for the last 50yrs!  you could put a fancy system on but think to the future, will parts and filters still be obtainable or will it end up redundant and removed.  Change your filters every year and you will have no problems, if you want fancy go for a Racor with a water censor and wire that to a alarm.  After fitting your new fuel system change the filters after 5-10 hours running then you will have removed any debris from the pipe work.

[Naijan]

Thanks Mark much appreciated, will probably follow your advice.

[Naijan]

Any good degreaser that you need to dilute.  as for painting, you could use a Brush top coat (flow coat) which is a gel with a high wax content, but if you do after degreasing you will have to grind the surface to grp removing all paint and residual grime, or you could just give it a couple of coats of bilge paint.

Fuel, one bulkhead (primary) CAV or a racor and the one on the engine should be fine, as it has been for most boats for the last 50yrs!  you could put a fancy system on but think to the future, will parts and filters still be obtainable or will it end up redundant and removed.  Change your filters every year and you will have no problems, if you want fancy go for a Racor with a water censor and wire that to a alarm.  After fitting your new fuel system change the filters after 5-10 hours running then you will have removed any debris from the pipe work.

From your experience, if I  wanted to fit newer engine rather then recon Perkins would something with 30hp be enough for 28 footer?

Thanks

[MBA Marine]

From your experience, if I  wanted to fit newer engine rather then recon Perkins would something with 30hp be enough for 28 footer?

Thanks

That depends on what you want it to do,  if you are going off shore in rough whether you might not make much progress but for most of the time it will do the job.

[Naijan]

That depends on what you want it to do,  if you are going off shore in rough whether you might not make much progress but for most of the time it will do the job.

Oh no ......this is a leisure boat I have no intention going nowhere in rough weather lol

[Naijan]

you will need help from lifting gear, crane or a lifting gantry if inside, the engine will tilt as you lift and i know its tight as the door is not central but the boat is, but with careful hands and maybe some boards for the engine to slide on at the lifting gear pulls it up to the doorway. if only the Kent had a removable cockpit floor and a big removable section beside the door.

is your tank a stainless cylinder, with a boat safety failing filler, accessed from through a small door way in the saloon? I made a GRP tank that matched the hull shape and still passed through the door. You biggest problem is not housing a tank its getting it in as there is bags of space that you just cant get too. I would consider making the small door much bigger taking it down to the seat top. Have a look at fuel tanks on the ASAP Supplies website and see if there is something suitable of the shelf.

Sorry for bothering you with all these questions, in one of you past replies you have mentioned an oil drip pan under the engine. As we will probably fit smaller engine now there should be much more space to fit the drip pan.

Be honest i was looking online to find anything about it with no success.

How this should be constructed, is this just a pan under the engine sump collecting any potential oil leeks and preventing it to mix with bilge water, are there any legal guidance/requirements to how this should be done?

Thanks

[MBA Marine]

Sorry for bothering you with all these questions, in one of you past replies you have mentioned an oil drip pan under the engine. As we will probably fit smaller engine now there should be much more space to fit the drip pan.

Be honest i was looking online to find anything about it with no success.

How this should be constructed, is this just a pan under the engine sump collecting any potential oil leeks and preventing it to mix with bilge water, are there any legal guidance/requirements to how this should be done?

Thanks

Sometimes a tray, most common is to fiber glass the section under the engine with a upstand at each end, often bonding in a bit of tube (limber hole/tube) that passes through the upstands, this allows water to pass through the engine bay to the bilge but maintaining a oil tight sump area under the engine.

 

An alternative is to just fit a filter to the bilge pump, but these are rubbish get clogged easily and then the pump does not pump out!

 

This is assuming you have a automatic bilge pump and that you will be needing to meet the requirement for a BSS or equivalent test.